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Did the chain tensionner will release only when the engine will start for the first time? or we can get it release by cranking without spark plugs?

For mine, yes

Ok then I have to compress and reinstall the chain tensioner, then gently turn the engine a few turns with a little tension on the chain between the gears before proceeding to final check of the valve clearance? Also where the oil drain hole are located? Just to be extra carefull to not drop a...

I'm on the way to adjust my valve and i'm wondering if its possible to verify the new valve clearance without installing the chain tensionner?

Good to know! Thanks!

Finally how did your idlers wheels last by using this method?

SKF or FAG are very good quality bearing. The number is 6009-2RS

I forgot to mention that my stud have a lengh of 1.375''. Did you loose some top speed after installing your studs?

I just finished to install them and I have set my track tension 2" under the slides at 20lbs. Is it too loose ?

Yes but you have to remove the rear suspension skid to have enough room.

Finally I have made a tool with a 1" wood drill bit on wich I have weld a 1/4" rod to be perfectly aligned with the stud hole and it work very well.

Its a litle bit vague...

which tool did you use use to cut the bump

I know what is the shoulder but I just wondering if it has to be torqued enough to be flush with the surface of the track.

Sorry for my bad english but what do you mean by "tighten them down till they bottom the shoulder out"? Also do you have some tips about install them on a quiet track? The 4/2/4/2 pattern seem to have a lot of stud on quiet pad. Thank you

Thank you for answering. I have taped half way thru them as KnappAttack recommend in an other thread, what is the torque spec for them?

Anyone that use super lite pro backers can comment about how they last? Do they break easily?

What type of bolts do you use? Stainless or steel?

Why using SS bolts instead of steel bolts? The bolts on your pictures above are steel bolt (grade 8.8)