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With SnowTrackers under my Pilot 6.9's there is zero darting. Toe-in when running Trackers is required to be at zero. I'm unsure what the spec is for other ski/runner combo's.
60mm may/may not be the right number. After reading through this: https://ty4stroke.com/threads/how-many-have-bought-the-hurricane-alignment-tool-and-used-it.153708/ I ordered Hurricanes alignment tool and set my offset using it.
No other machining needed for my secondary once I took off enough...
At #225 I run on position 1 primarily. 2 when its rough. It will bottom when on 2... but only on the hardest of hits. I feel its too stiff if it does not bottom at all.
Mike, you are right again!
Tubing designed for gas, oil and vapor will be required. This explaines why some are seeing oil leaking when the clamp is tight on the tank...
Dan,
Just a note of thanks for all the pics and video's you posted in this thread... especially oil change and chaincase service. I just finished up both (500 mile maint) and referencing this post made the job go much smoother and confidently! You are an asset to all of us! Kudo's!
Dan, Fantastic work documenting these procedures for us all to reference! I appreciate it very much!
Quick question for you... is there a screen on the oil tank elbow that needs to be cleaned at first oil change? My Apex and Phazer had one that caught shavings during engine break in.
I would slow down the rebound on the rear shock by tightening it (turning clockwise) maybe 5 clicks. I did this to my ski shocks as my sled had what I call the "pogo stick" effect going on from the front end through the stutters. Keep trying different settings but change only one thing at a...
I hear what you are saying and appreciate the concerns...but the current RO valve system is not functioning when its cold causing a blown out tank gasket. This leads to lost precious riding time... or worse. Yes the tethered RO system will solve the issue. It costs a lot of money. It does not...
Nice work Dan! I am going to follow Mikes design though. Your system has vacuum from the turbo inlet potentially drawing a small amount of oil and water vapor through the RO valve into the intake. I think your design will eliminate most of the vapor but unfortunatly not all.
Edit: As I wrote...
I'm thinking there may be additional benefit beyond keeping the slight oil mist out of the intake tract. There is water vapor in the blow-by dumped into the intake as well. Could it be that sensors relying on vacuum may be subject to blockage from ice forming in the small tubing routed to them...
I'm not waiting on Yammy risking the loss of riding time. Like most, my riding time is limited so I will take matters into my own hands and prevent a possible breakdown by utilizing Mikes fix.
Every engine (gas or diesel) builds pressure from combustion blowing past the piston rings that must be relieved or seals and gaskets blow out. Years ago this pressure was simply released to the atmosphere but that changed as emission regs required "closed crankcase venting". Now all cars and...
I am going to copy Mike on this setup and re-evaluate when/if Yamaha comes up with a fix.
I will be keeping an eye on the new vent tube on the coldest of days. Water vapor may freeze on the inside of the tube and eventually block off the vent allowing pressure to build again. The breath vents...
I have an oil catch can setup on my turbo diesels, Suburban 6.0 gas and F 5550 v-10 gas vehicles. They work great for keeping the emissions in tact while separating the oil vapor out of the intake. I hate having the eventual "oily mess" all through the turbo's, intercoolers and intakes. A catch...
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