'06 Venture RS Handling - think I might be buying an Arctic Cat

[NaughtyPines]

I have tried just about every suspension setting there is on this sled. Tonight the trails were nicely groomed overall, quite smooth from above-freezing temps which re-froze last night.

Current settings are:
- 1 step away from highest preload on the fronts
- 1 step away from the highest preload on the center shock
- Limiter straps on loosest setting
- 2-up blocks in "up" position
- rear suspension "triangle" on "soft"

I've tried adjusting these things back and forth for the past two seasons. My better half was riding behind me this evening and described watching the pig of a Venture going around curves as: "it's like watching slow motion dominos going around a slight curve that can barely touch each other".

I thought that was a great way of putting it.

The suspension adjustments allow me to change the sled from an understeering danger to a darty, floating nightmare. The only time this sled actually does anything close to what a snowmobile is supposed to do, is when I'm barreling down ITS (our widest, smoothest trail network) at 55+ mph, which is probably less than 2% of my overall riding.

So my final observation on this sled is: What The Fack?

Is it possible to make this Venture RS handle like a snowmobile or is it destined to always handle like a dyslexic retard on methamphetamine?

Currently, I am searching for a Arctic Cat Z1, which has a motor on par with the excellent Yamaha mill, but with the ability to actually negotiate a turn.

Thanks for your help.

 

[theCATman]

What are the front shocks? Preload only or clickers?? You want the a-arms at a just above level setting.

You need ski pressure. Tightening the limiter strap will add ski pressure.

A crucial item that's needed is a wide dual runner carbide. Get yourself some 8" Sno-Stud double down from www.johnmaster.net PN# RD6808. These are all I have ever ran on my Vectors & Apex. They bite & don't dart.

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[NaughtyPines]

What are the front shocks? Preload only or clickers?? You want the a-arms at a just above level setting.

You need ski pressure. Tightening the limiter strap will add ski pressure.

A crucial item that's needed is a wide dual runner carbide. Get yourself some 8" Sno-Stud double down from www.johnmaster.net PN# RD6808. These are all I have ever ran on my Vectors & Apex. They bite & don't dart.

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I do have those exact carbides. Front shocks are preload only. I will tighten up the limiter strap tomorrow afternoon, punching an extra hole if need be because I believe there are only two settings in it and there is lots of slack as it sits. Is there an optimum tightness for the straps?

Appreciate the response - thank you!

 

[theCATman]

Get the preload on the fronts set to an as close to level a- arm position as you can get. You want the chassis to roll nosing the front down biting in the corner.

As far as the limiter strap, put it in a position so there's minimal slack in a static position as the sled sits under its own weight.

I'm not very familiar with the Ventures rear skid, but is there a transfer rod laying horizontal between the two arms like a Monoshock suspension?

If so, you want that set for minimum transfer.

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[theCATman]

You were on the right track by giving the front skid shock more preload for front end bite, but defeated that by loosening the limiter strap & preloading the front arm shocks.

Yes, more preload drives the skis down in theory, but doesn't allow for chassis roll to transfer weight.

On my Vectors the preload is threaded on the shock body, & I jack the front end up, loosen the collars to the point of the spring having zero preload, then tighten just enough to stop them from rattling.

This is how all 3 Vectors are set, however my '10 has clickers, so I can fine tune the compression & rebound. But the '06 & '15 have no clickers.





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[NaughtyPines]

Get the preload on the fronts set to an as close to level a- arm position as you can get. You want the chassis to roll nosing the front down biting in the corner.

As far as the limiter strap, put it in a position so there's minimal slack in a static position as the sled sits under its own weight.

I'm not very familiar with the Ventures rear skid, but is there a transfer rod laying horizontal between the two arms like a Monoshock suspension?

If so, you want that set for minimum transfer.

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There is a transfer rod - which direction does it go for minimum transfer. I think you're on to something there - too much weight transfer allows for too much front end "bite" under deceleration, causing it to sometime violently change direction. It tracked so badly tonight for some reason. Almost scary.

Thanks!

 

[NaughtyPines]

Also - Am I doing myself a huge disservice by running the 2-up blocks in the "up" position (preloading the torsion arms a little more). The sled just seems to do a little better with them in that position. For the record, I only weigh 150 pounds so I'm like a mosquito on the back of an elephant when on the Venture.

Thank you!

 

[theCATman]

I'd set the torsion springs to a more medium setting when riding solo.

The transfer rod needs to be set to a distance of 1 1/8" between the collars. If memory serves me how mine are set. I can measure & post pics tomorrow.

This is assuming it's the same type rod used in the monoshock.

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[sledheadgeorge]

Also loosen the spring load on the front shock in the rear skid to the point were it is loose, then tighten one turn, while the sled is sitting on the floor. This will lower the front end of the sled even more and give you better cornering ability. Limiter strap like catman said and you will notice a big difference.

 

[theCATman]

If your transfer rod is like this one, set the distance between the two collars to what I stated earlier, 1 1/8".

Yes, my sled is filthy. Hahahaha.

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[SAB1]

I had one them and ultimately sold it. I always had trouble with handling. I cranked the front end pressure up and then I punched another hole in the limiter strap and really tightened that up. That improved things, never perfect but it helped.

 

[4strokeluvr111]

You were on the right track by giving the front skid shock more preload for front end bite

Mr Cat, your statement here is wrong! Tightening the spring on the skids front shock DECREASES front end bite!

Tightening the skis on the skis INCREASES front bite, but only in small increments.

Continuing to pull down on the limiter strap should only do one thing in the end, make the sled harder to turn.

NaughtyPines - You need to do one adjustment at a time, not several. This IS a big lumbering sled, much like my 14 Vector LTX. I WISH I had the ability to adjust front end weight like you do.....with the front shock/spring in the skid.

 

[4strokeluvr111]

There is a transfer rod - which direction does it go for minimum transfer. I think you're on to something there - too much weight transfer allows for too much front end "bite" under deceleration, causing it to sometime violently change direction. It tracked so badly tonight for some reason. Almost scary.

Thanks!

You are correct....too much transfer will have the sled act like a bucking bronco. Nose up on accel and nose down on decel.

 

[4strokeluvr111]

I'd set the torsion springs to a more medium setting when riding solo.
This is assuming it's the same type rod used in the monoshock.
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He has two transfer rods on his skid. It's nothing like what you have on your sleds.

 

[4strokeluvr111]

"or is it destined to always handle like a dyslexic retard on methamphetamine"............this is a comment I'll never forget!!!!!