To get started the motor in my Phazer MTX is completely stock. Alot of times people want to start with motor mods for more HP to improve performance. This alot of times will mask defficiencies in the drive line area. I beleive in first working with getting the performance out of the clutching, gearing, track preferance and dealing with any friction areas first. This gives you a real starting point on how you want the sled to perform in the conditions you ride. When you are working with a sled that is shy on HP and you want a little more out of it. I have found huge gains in they above mentioned areas and found great performance effeciency.
Now a brief explanation on the importance of clean cold dense air verses warm air introduced into the air box. This information is from Swain Tech's website: "A 10°F reduction in intake air temperature provides a 1% increase in horsepower. A 30°F reduction equates to a 3% horsepower increase." The temprature reduction in increase of horsepower is also confirmed in dyno testings results. On the Phazer the air flow into the air box comes from the bottom of the air box. This is right close to the base of the motor for some fairly warm air drawn into the motor.
Case and point of a dyno test done on a Phazer at 70 degrees and the inside of the air box temprature was 88 degrees. The stock motor setup still put out 81.2 HP at 11,200 rpms. With 4 Bullseyes installed in the air box cover and 80 mph forced fan air it registered 83 HP at 11,100 rpms with 78 degree air box temprature. With the air box cover off it registered 85.3 at 11,100 rpms. So you can see that air temprature does affect HP but only a dyno test can prove it. You can subscribe and see all the numbers at the attatched website. DynoTech Research http://www.dynotechresearch.com/techarticles.asp#
Now to the air box mod: the foam filter and screen are removed and the 3 slots that hold the screen in place are sealed. Next the oil tank vent hose and valve cover vent hose are tied together into a K&N Filter outside the air box and those 2 openings are sealed. Next the bottom of the air box intake is completely sealed from warm drawn air off motor. I used a two part epoxy to seal all inlets into the air box. Now the air intake will come through the air box cover with FROGZskin vents installed under the cosmetic cover. This will keep direct debris from clogging filter screens and introduce pure clean cold air.
Also in this mod I have added an Aaen pipe and have had the whole exhaust system SwainTech White Lightning Coated. The reason for the coating is to keep the outside of the pipe at the coolest possible temprature. While the inside of the pipe keeps the hottest most consistant temprature for better combustion system burn.
There will deffinetley be some fuel adjustments that will be needed and I will do that through the ECU for now. When the fuel is adjusted through the ECU it adjust it from idle up through wide open throttle equally. Unlike a Power Commander or other fuel modules you can map the curve for certain rpms. How often do you run from engagment to 7000 rpms on these things not much. Most of the fuel curve modules start at about 8000 rpms and up to richen fuel for a few more ponies on top.
I ran a test in the garage and the plug is burning perfect light brown. But with cooler tempratures come leaner burn so I will start at 3 with the ECU adjustment for now. Let the testing begin and the results will be posted.
Now a brief explanation on the importance of clean cold dense air verses warm air introduced into the air box. This information is from Swain Tech's website: "A 10°F reduction in intake air temperature provides a 1% increase in horsepower. A 30°F reduction equates to a 3% horsepower increase." The temprature reduction in increase of horsepower is also confirmed in dyno testings results. On the Phazer the air flow into the air box comes from the bottom of the air box. This is right close to the base of the motor for some fairly warm air drawn into the motor.
Case and point of a dyno test done on a Phazer at 70 degrees and the inside of the air box temprature was 88 degrees. The stock motor setup still put out 81.2 HP at 11,200 rpms. With 4 Bullseyes installed in the air box cover and 80 mph forced fan air it registered 83 HP at 11,100 rpms with 78 degree air box temprature. With the air box cover off it registered 85.3 at 11,100 rpms. So you can see that air temprature does affect HP but only a dyno test can prove it. You can subscribe and see all the numbers at the attatched website. DynoTech Research http://www.dynotechresearch.com/techarticles.asp#
Now to the air box mod: the foam filter and screen are removed and the 3 slots that hold the screen in place are sealed. Next the oil tank vent hose and valve cover vent hose are tied together into a K&N Filter outside the air box and those 2 openings are sealed. Next the bottom of the air box intake is completely sealed from warm drawn air off motor. I used a two part epoxy to seal all inlets into the air box. Now the air intake will come through the air box cover with FROGZskin vents installed under the cosmetic cover. This will keep direct debris from clogging filter screens and introduce pure clean cold air.
Also in this mod I have added an Aaen pipe and have had the whole exhaust system SwainTech White Lightning Coated. The reason for the coating is to keep the outside of the pipe at the coolest possible temprature. While the inside of the pipe keeps the hottest most consistant temprature for better combustion system burn.
There will deffinetley be some fuel adjustments that will be needed and I will do that through the ECU for now. When the fuel is adjusted through the ECU it adjust it from idle up through wide open throttle equally. Unlike a Power Commander or other fuel modules you can map the curve for certain rpms. How often do you run from engagment to 7000 rpms on these things not much. Most of the fuel curve modules start at about 8000 rpms and up to richen fuel for a few more ponies on top.
I ran a test in the garage and the plug is burning perfect light brown. But with cooler tempratures come leaner burn so I will start at 3 with the ECU adjustment for now. Let the testing begin and the results will be posted.
Attachments
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
Question on alternate method: With the air coming in the bottom of the airbox in the original setup, is it not possible to put some venting in the front of the panels somehow to allow cool air to enter instead of drawing warm air from the engine compartment? Do you have some pics of how you tied your vent hoses into a filter outside the box - I'm thinking ("outside the box"ah) that it may be worthwhile, even if not modifying the airbox?
thanks,
thanks,
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
Thanks for adding the pictures of the vent hoses. Any comment on my question re venting?
Looks great! 
I added FrogSkinz to my air box lid but didn't block off the other areas of intake. I also have my skinz placed above the plastic cover so they are exposed more. I always see a lot of water droplets on the FrogSkinz while riding and wonder how much is getting through. When I look in the air box it is always dry though.
I think I will block off the under side like you have done and add a couple more FrogSkinz under the white cover.
I added FrogSkinz to my air box lid but didn't block off the other areas of intake. I also have my skinz placed above the plastic cover so they are exposed more. I always see a lot of water droplets on the FrogSkinz while riding and wonder how much is getting through. When I look in the air box it is always dry though. I think I will block off the under side like you have done and add a couple more FrogSkinz under the white cover.
Amo
Extreme
I've often thought about just created a ram air setup into those velocity stacks on the backside of the intake box with some black pvc tubing that makes a tight seal against the top cover with a frogskin cover. Drill a small hole in the bottom of the tube near the throttle body to allow any moisture to drop through.
Another thought around this would be to completely modify the intake box to the extent of removing most of the material excepts for the top cosmetic and fastening points prolly eliminating 5-7 pounds fo dead weight and allowing much better access to the steering and the oil filter for maintenance.
I figure at speed there would be a positive PSI impact on the intake adding more power, but hard to tell wihtout alot of testing. Just another idea to see if there is more HP just sitting here in front of us on thise sled.
Another thought around this would be to completely modify the intake box to the extent of removing most of the material excepts for the top cosmetic and fastening points prolly eliminating 5-7 pounds fo dead weight and allowing much better access to the steering and the oil filter for maintenance.
I figure at speed there would be a positive PSI impact on the intake adding more power, but hard to tell wihtout alot of testing. Just another idea to see if there is more HP just sitting here in front of us on thise sled.
2lb boost in process.
MikeWalters
TY 4 Stroke Master
Just wondering how your airbox mod has held up so far? How has performance been with the Aaen pipe in combination with your airbox?
My aaen pipe blew through the packing in about 500 miles
My aaen pipe blew through the packing in about 500 miles
MikeWalters said:
Performance has been a great gain from low to midrange for sure. I checked at several tempratures for plug color and don't see the need for a fuel controller. I know folks say there is a 2hp gain with one but for the money not worth it for me. I know the peak HP is at 11,300 rpm but it feels really mad at 11,500-11,800 . I can tell when the sled is under load and climbing at that rpm it just keeps ripping with no bog. I know a dyno would be the only proof.
The sled is night and day from last year and all I've done is this air box mod with Aaen pipe and clutching with a roller secondary. I know Phazer riders would be shocked at the performance feel to my ride. I am 300 lbs loaded with gear and this thing would be just wheelie happy without the Timbersled skid. When rider weighs 2/3 the sled does and can feel in the pants what would a 200 lb rider or less feel. This is also without the 2 lb boost I'm working on.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
A few questions re the Airbox mod:
(1) Is the valve cover breather hose that you rerouted, the little one on the top right corner (when sitting on the sled) of the airbox?
Would it matter if that one was left in its original positions with the modified airbox?
(2) You mentioned something about changing the ECU settings, was that necessary?
- If keeping roughly the same size (square in) of intake opening as per the original setup would any changes to the fuel settings be required?
(I figure if changing the intake to the cover type like yours, the engine would be getting more air due to the location and free flow of air near the nose).
I would like to do this mod but would not want to jeopardize the engine.
(3) In rerouting the oil overflow hose, I wish to use a small container to route the hose to outside the box and put some ventilation in it like a Skinz screen. Would you see any issues with this idea. I'm tired of cleaning oil out of the airbox and the piece of sponge.
thanks for any input,
(1) Is the valve cover breather hose that you rerouted, the little one on the top right corner (when sitting on the sled) of the airbox?
Would it matter if that one was left in its original positions with the modified airbox?
(2) You mentioned something about changing the ECU settings, was that necessary?
- If keeping roughly the same size (square in) of intake opening as per the original setup would any changes to the fuel settings be required?
(I figure if changing the intake to the cover type like yours, the engine would be getting more air due to the location and free flow of air near the nose).
I would like to do this mod but would not want to jeopardize the engine.
(3) In rerouting the oil overflow hose, I wish to use a small container to route the hose to outside the box and put some ventilation in it like a Skinz screen. Would you see any issues with this idea. I'm tired of cleaning oil out of the airbox and the piece of sponge.
thanks for any input,
BombaPolaYama said:
(1) yes it's the small hose to the valve cover vent. And the thought on the vent being disconnected and rerouted is to take all heat and oil residue out of intake from air box.
(2) ECU changes not necessary.
(3) that sounds fine
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
Thanks so much, I didn't realize that oil/heat may be coming from the small vent as well - may reroute that one as well then.UP bushman said:
..SNAKEBIT..
Expert
2# boost?
I agree on the 11500-11800 for peak.Same here.At 11,300 gas mileage really improves though.
MikeWalters
TY 4 Stroke Master
UP bushman said:
Old thread but just curious, do you think our peak HP curve is changed somewhat with air intake and exhaust, as in perhaps peak HP is closer to 11,500 than 11,250 stock? Or would that only happen with porting, cams etc.
With the Aaen pipe and fresh air it's deffinetly 11,500-11,800 rpm peak. Only thing is now since mine blew the connecting rod probably not a good idea to run them that high. High rpm and torque was probably the end to mine and ran it that way for 2 years at that rpm if not a bit higher.
