yamstock1
Extreme
Do you have an idea what we should do on the stock air box???? I would like to know about home made modifs like a hole on the bottom of the airbox or something like that... Does anyone did mods on the airbox????
??
I know there must be a post from the past on here somewhere. I just had a guy buy my stock intake box assembley off of ebay, cause he found astock box mod suggestion on this site. He was going to use mine for a back up. Did you try under the search area? Good luck
I know there must be a post from the past on here somewhere. I just had a guy buy my stock intake box assembley off of ebay, cause he found astock box mod suggestion on this site. He was going to use mine for a back up. Did you try under the search area? Good luck
yamstock1
Extreme
Not a lot of comments.... Anyone????
Yamaha Man
Expert
Also wondering how mods we can do.
I did a custom one on my Apex RTX using SLP filter paper
I did a custom one on my Apex RTX using SLP filter paper
jtermini30
Newbie
Check out schmidt bros motorsports online webpage. You can purchase their mod or do your own.
maybe Ulmer could chime in on this. Seems like you see airbox mods, or ram air on Apex models, but mostly K&N styles on Nytro's. Any reasons??
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I wasted a day and $800 on the dyno testing air box modifications on the FX Nytro. I did not find any that worked. Some sell a modified air box lid, but use caution as I only saw losses in those style of modifications.
yamstock1
Extreme
Srxspec said:
Thanks SRXspec!!!!!!
Turbor
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why do you want to mod the airbox on a stock nytro??? 
you owe me a 
otherwise i might link this you know where 
you owe me a otherwise i might link this you know where yamstock1
Extreme
turbor said:why do you want to mod the airbox on a stock nytro???
hahahaha Turbor.... because I had the same mods on my 2007 Apex and it worked very well... I'm wondering if the same mods is working on the Nytro....
Srxspec said:
Just out of curiosity how about the Dyno tech report on the Ulmar air box mod? Yeah it may not gain peak hp but mid range is a good thing as well. I also noted the increase in fuel above 8000 but it does not show stock, is that increase needed to get the most out of the excell header?
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It gained 2 hp in the midrange and lost 2 hp on top end. The air box was also tested moving the air/fuel ratio around and didn't change the results.
The Excell header on the dyno made the most HP with just the stock fuel map.
The Excell header on the dyno made the most HP with just the stock fuel map.
Srxspec said:
OK I looked at the charts again and found the one I thought was most interesting is the K&N's producing 3 hp more from 8100-8200 and bringing in the peak hp 200 rpm sooner flattening out the power curve. To me that seems like a fairly big deal when it come to clutching for peak performance.
Thanks,
Rick
drewseph
Veteran
Hey guys I am new on here and need some assistance!
I bought a new 2011 nytro rtx and had put an mbrp can on it and rode it for the first season and everything was fine. It had that good, crisp 4 stroke power.
The next season I swapped out the 1.25 ripsaw for a 1.75 backcountry track and shortly there after I did an air box lid mod myself. At first it seemed to rip good mostly when it was cold outside(-20c), but not for long. Ever since I did these two things my sled seems more gutless and like there is power loss somewhere, even after I put a new air box lid back on. It has the same top end speed( I think), but doesn't have that raw 4 stroke jam on the bottom anymore.
Maybe the fuel-air ratios and all out of whack still but wouldnt the sled re-adjust itself after I put the new lid back on?
I am beginning to think I made a mistake by putting on the 1.75 track,
but that doesn't make sense that I lose bottom end power with a more aggressive track.
Any thoughts or ideas? HELP
I bought a new 2011 nytro rtx and had put an mbrp can on it and rode it for the first season and everything was fine. It had that good, crisp 4 stroke power.
The next season I swapped out the 1.25 ripsaw for a 1.75 backcountry track and shortly there after I did an air box lid mod myself. At first it seemed to rip good mostly when it was cold outside(-20c), but not for long. Ever since I did these two things my sled seems more gutless and like there is power loss somewhere, even after I put a new air box lid back on. It has the same top end speed( I think), but doesn't have that raw 4 stroke jam on the bottom anymore.
Maybe the fuel-air ratios and all out of whack still but wouldnt the sled re-adjust itself after I put the new lid back on?
I am beginning to think I made a mistake by putting on the 1.75 track,
but that doesn't make sense that I lose bottom end power with a more aggressive track.
Any thoughts or ideas? HELP
drewseph
Veteran
So im thinking I have a clutching issue since changing out the track because the belt is also slipping, anybody have ideas I can look at?
