tfreake
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- Corner Brook, Newfoundland
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2010 Yamaha Phazer GT
1990 Yamaha Bravo Transporter
Looking to change the spark plugs on my recently purchased 2012 RS Venture GT. Are they accessible if I were to remove the airbox? Looking for a Service Manual for this machine. Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks, Tony
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
1st, how many miles are on it. If it's less than 7-8000, I wouldn't even worry about it, unless it's running badly.
But if you insist, remove "hood", windshield, "batwing"( plastic that houses the keyswitch), removal of 1/2 of the chrome trim ring at handlebar base is needed to get batwing out, remove the dash/gaugepod plastic, finally the headlight pod & unplug the gauge & headlight wiring.
You'll just have to look and figure out what screws are what, too hard to explain each one's location, but easy enough to figure out.
The coils are a real PITA to get pulled off the plugs( unplug connections from coils of course) ya gotta twist and pull ant the same time. It sucks.
You'll need a 5/8 plug socket with the rubber grommet in it to grab the plugs for removal and install. Without one, it's impossible. You'll need a 3/8 drive ratchet, U joint, and various extensions lengths up up 8 or 10". Each plug has it's own unique angle of approach.
Dielectric grease the body of the coils some when you put them back on. It makes them slide into place and lock on the plugs much easier. When you get them out, you'll see what I mean. There are "ribs" at the top, and little nubs toward the middle/lower portions. Dab the grease on those spots.
But if you insist, remove "hood", windshield, "batwing"( plastic that houses the keyswitch), removal of 1/2 of the chrome trim ring at handlebar base is needed to get batwing out, remove the dash/gaugepod plastic, finally the headlight pod & unplug the gauge & headlight wiring.
You'll just have to look and figure out what screws are what, too hard to explain each one's location, but easy enough to figure out.
The coils are a real PITA to get pulled off the plugs( unplug connections from coils of course) ya gotta twist and pull ant the same time. It sucks.
You'll need a 5/8 plug socket with the rubber grommet in it to grab the plugs for removal and install. Without one, it's impossible. You'll need a 3/8 drive ratchet, U joint, and various extensions lengths up up 8 or 10". Each plug has it's own unique angle of approach.
Dielectric grease the body of the coils some when you put them back on. It makes them slide into place and lock on the plugs much easier. When you get them out, you'll see what I mean. There are "ribs" at the top, and little nubs toward the middle/lower portions. Dab the grease on those spots.
tfreake
Newbie
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2020
- Messages
- 10
- Age
- 51
- Location
- Corner Brook, Newfoundland
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2010 Yamaha Phazer GT
1990 Yamaha Bravo Transporter
Thanks for the detailed reply. Very much appreciated. Yes, the sled is running badly. 7500miles. Poor idle, low and dies. After managing to warm up, may need bit of throttle to start without stalling. Engine hesitates regularly. Gas is fine. Tony1st, how many miles are on it. If it's less than 7-8000, I wouldn't even worry about it, unless it's running badly.
But if you insist, remove "hood", windshield, "batwing"( plastic that houses the keyswitch), removal of 1/2 of the chrome trim ring at handlebar base is needed to get batwing out, remove the dash/gaugepod plastic, finally the headlight pod & unplug the gauge & headlight wiring.
You'll just have to look and figure out what screws are what, too hard to explain each one's location, but easy enough to figure out.
The coils are a real PITA to get pulled off the plugs( unplug connections from coils of course) ya gotta twist and pull ant the same time. It sucks.
You'll need a 5/8 plug socket with the rubber grommet in it to grab the plugs for removal and install. Without one, it's impossible. You'll need a 3/8 drive ratchet, U joint, and various extensions lengths up up 8 or 10". Each plug has it's own unique angle of approach.
Dielectric grease the body of the coils some when you put them back on. It makes them slide into place and lock on the plugs much easier. When you get them out, you'll see what I mean. There are "ribs" at the top, and little nubs toward the middle/lower portions. Dab the grease on those spots.
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
Thanks for the detailed reply. Very much appreciated. Yes, the sled is running badly. 7500miles. Poor idle, low and dies. After managing to warm up, may need bit of throttle to start without stalling. Engine hesitates regularly. Gas is fine. Tony
Is this one in the "Apex" chassis or still the rx1??
Does the hood open like a traditional hood, or is it a lift off with tzus clips??
I know the Venture could be had in both chassis.
tfreake
Newbie
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- 2010 Yamaha Phazer GT
1990 Yamaha Bravo Transporter
Thanks for the response and the helpful advice. My Venture RS is like the Apex as far as I can tell from similar online resources. Same ~1000cc engine. Hood comes off with the 2 tzus clips on either side of headlight pod.
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
Yeah. Ok. Just making sure. After I posted I thought, crap, it may be in old chassis and plugs are easier to get at.Thanks for the response and the helpful advice. My Venture RS is like the Apex as far as I can tell from similar online resources. Same ~1000cc engine. Hood comes off with the 2 tzus clips on either side of headlight pod.
However. No, it not the same engine. The Venture has the 973 carbed 3 cyl, and the Venture GT has the EFI 1049 3 cyl. Apex has 998 4 cyl.
Yours has to be the GT then since it's got the lift off hood.
It's odd that the EFI engine is running that terrible at idle. But,if the plugs are shot, I can see that.
Never, ever, unless some sort of emergency, shut the engine off cold while it's in warm up with the red light on, on the dash. That will foul the plugs as the ECM is very enriched while the engine is warming up, dumping alot of fuel in. Always let it run at least another 5 minutes after the light goes out, if you aren't riding it.
tfreake
Newbie
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2020
- Messages
- 10
- Age
- 51
- Location
- Corner Brook, Newfoundland
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2010 Yamaha Phazer GT
1990 Yamaha Bravo Transporter
Thanks again! Yeah I bought this Venture GT used last weekend. Stupid me didn’t ride it but idled perfectly when I bought it but wasn’t completely warmed up. Wouldn’t be surprised if plug was fowled or on the verge when I bought it.Yeah. Ok. Just making sure. After I posted I thought, crap, it may be in old chassis and plugs are easier to get at.
However. No, it not the same engine. The Venture has the 973 carbed 3 cyl, and the Venture GT has the EFI 1049 3 cyl. Apex has 998 4 cyl.
Yours has to be the GT then since it's got the lift off hood.
It's odd that the EFI engine is running that terrible at idle. But,if the plugs are shot, I can see that.
Never, ever, unless some sort of emergency, shut the engine off cold while it's in warm up with the red light on, on the dash. That will foul the plugs as the ECM is very enriched while the engine is warming up, dumping alot of fuel in. Always let it run at least another 5 minutes after the light goes out, if you aren't riding it.
I trucked it home and when going for first ride, was warmed up completely and idle was low (less than 1000) and would threaten to stall. Anyway, with new oil and fresh gas with a bit of seafoam, I took it out to “blow the cobwebs” out if it. Engine hesitated regularly and seems like a bad plug.
I have a phazer already that runs like a clock and I have never moved or shut off until coolant temp light goes out.
My big concern isn’t the possibility of a fouled plug even thought I’ve never experienced one, but that there’s something about the Venture that would cause plugs to foul easily. That being said, the venture probably had old gas in her.
Thought? Change plugs and see how it goes?
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