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Battery replacement, low voltage fix

Ski doo comes out with a one shot capactor start system that uses the stator for starting: https://www.snowest.com/2017/02/2018-ski-doo-shot-system-summit-freeride#

6475_1600.jpg
 

Oh wow no starter! That is impressive. Why not. Think of the electric cars and even Hybrid trucks. They don't need a starter really since generator/startor is built right into tranny. This is new level though. No Batt No starter. Thanks Grizz. Well worth reading.
 
We have discovered that the hobby battery stopped woking. Last weekend, after a full weekend of use it just didn't have enough to fire the sled. We put the voltmeter on it read 13.1v but what we've read now is the hobby batteries have a special balancing program but into the hobby battery charges. So from what I can figure, the sleds charging system does not. So the hobby battery is pooched. Its a bit swollen and I believe it is now toast. But it was fun experimenting with it. I have now a small Interstate AGM in its place. Its working perfect. Plus it doesn't need any special balancing when its getting charged on the sled.
This is the battery Ill be ordering for the other sled.
http://saskbattery.com/ecommerce_109.htm

The new Doo system is pretty cool. Using a new magneto to slightly turn the motor then fire the TDC cylinder clever stuff.
 
Update on the Ultra capacitor/Super capacitor. Ill just call them the Ucap for short.
This test is being done on a 2013 Skidoo Summit. With e start.
Has the stock AGM Doo battery in there. Just in case if anyone was wondering.
The Ucap alone would not start the motor on a cold start. Ucap was charged to 12.3V from the sleds battery, but started no problem with both in parallel.
After about 90 sec of charging(from the magneto) the cap was at 14.5v Unhooked the AGM battery. Sled started just fine with just the Ucap
The Ucap also started the sled 4 times in a row and on the 5th it petered out. But once charged again with motor running took only 60sec to fully charge the Ucap back up to 14.8v
Once the motor stopped the Ucap’s charge was 14.76V so lets say 14.7v
We let the sled sit for 1 hour with just the Ucap on. From Fully charged is was down to 14.05v sled started just fine.
We let it set next for 2 hours with just the Ucap. From Fully charged is was down to 14.28v sled started just fine.
So it seems that a charge of 12.3v in the Ucap is not enough to get to turn over the motor. But 14+V is.

Well keep testing, but two hours seems pretty decent each Ucap does have a mA leaking listing. Im just not sure how or what formula to use to mathematically figure it out. Real world seems to be working for us right now.

Cheers
Allan


 
Another update.
So after the last start last night. Ucaps were charged to full. Sled sat overnight. about 11 hours, 14.4v this morning and started no problem!! Awesome!!
So in a 2S application this is pretty fantastic. But in the 4S the hybrid system with a small AGM is best.
 
The one in the last vids is actually a cheaper Ucap. With just slightly smaller Ucaps. It came just as a open circuit board with the Ucaps already soldered on. I just put it into a sealed box.
There nothing to make as a kit. The Eaton Ucap pack is already a prebuilt sealed unit. Just run some wires and your done.
 
Perfect well I will be picking up one over the summer and make up the cables to try with my 17.5 flash. Thanks for the info!
 
My only concern would be the UCap draining the main battery if left hooked up in parallel since they self discharge a lot faster than a normal battery and would be looking "charge" off the main battery after a few days. If your sled is always parked where there is power available to run a battery maintainer then it would be a great setup. One could wire up a relay or a master switch to control the Ucap but if the Ucap was discharged it may have the opposite effect and hinder starting.
 
We've gone two weeks with Ucap and battery hooked up with no loss. But that doesn't mean you can wire in a simple disconnect to be 100% sure.
 
A starter solenoid wired to the key on position should work to pervert any discharge while sled is off for long stretches
 
I'm not tore up on having to remove the seat and disconnecting stuff or pulling in battery tenders, as I work with building automation I like everything automatic that's why I installed a adjustable fan controller or the cooling instead of a switch or right to the key.

I don't understand why I can have my 02 Kodak 400 and my 08 outlander 800 with original batteries left in the cold for months and turn the key and hit the button and start instantly and the viper requires more to start it then a model T lol
 
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