Can someone please help me??

[Joshua]

UPDATE!!

So since I posted this trend I have changed a few things with my sled. First was the clutching, I went back to the 51/43 helix with the purple spring wrapped to 0-1. I put 2 magnets in the heel of my d&d magnaforce clutch arms and shimmed my wastegate.

Over the summer I installed a cold air intake through the hood. A few days ago I tried this setup and I noticed I was running a little lean. At WOT I was seeing 12.5 A/F. I then download and c3 mobile app from dynojet, with the use of my phone I was able to increase the fuel at WOT. Now i'm seeing 11.3 @ 6lbs. Also with this app I was able to increase my Rev limiter. In the app there is a option for what is called rev x-tend. It gives you an extra 500 rpm.

Today I gave it a try and for most of the day everything was fine. On the way back I noticed mt AEM A/F gauge stopped working. Was showing 14.7 on start up and never moved. Do anybody know if you can buy the probe by itself or do you have to buy the whole thing.

 

[Joshua]

By the way very please with this setup.

 

[ClutchMaster]

I'm on my 3rd season with that setup, magnaforce weights and stock 43 helix..definitely not junk and don't need any luck making mine run good. The profile of the weights and the way they can be loaded make it unnecessary to use a big steep angle helix. I've tried the 51/43, several times actually. When traction is perfect it's very quick down low, but every time I've done testing in different conditions it was much more sensitive when using the magnaforce weights. I'm now trying out big flat profile heavy weights that have come highly recommended (not saying the name of them as of yet). Just starting to get rpm where it needs to be and so far they don't have the down low pull of the d&d weights, they are smooth and shift nicely but now need to start making secondary changes to try to get that pull back. will start with some different helix setups now and see if these flat profile weights like the steeper angles and can pull them consistently, and by that I mean that every time I hit wide open they go right to the rpm I want whether it's 35 degrees or -10, on ice, in slush or in loose snow..that's exactly what my setup would do, every time I hit the gas I know exactly what's going to happen. But as for now the OP has something going on that is an issue beyond his clutch components.

Well you can make it work with a 43 degree helix but if you know anything about clutching efficiency it's not optimal. 2 eachs own.

 

[Studroes144]

Well you can make it work with a 43 degree helix but if you know anything about clutching efficiency it's not optimal. 2 eachs own.

So you think the turbos need a big steep angle helix to run optimal and be efficient?

 

[ClutchMaster]

Well a 43 degree is gonna give ya 2 much belt squeeze at lower speeds. Sheaves will have a hard time letting go of the belt, on a dyno you would see better low speed HP numbers at the track with a steeper angle helix. But if you throw enough weight at it.....it will shift out hard like a steeper angle does.

 

[InRBigness]

UPDATE!!

So since I posted this trend I have changed a few things with my sled. First was the clutching, I went back to the 51/43 helix with the purple spring wrapped to 0-1. I put 2 magnets in the heel of my d&d magnaforce clutch arms and shimmed my wastegate.

Over the summer I installed a cold air intake through the hood. A few days ago I tried this setup and I noticed I was running a little lean. At WOT I was seeing 12.5 A/F. I then download and c3 mobile app from dynojet, with the use of my phone I was able to increase the fuel at WOT. Now i'm seeing 11.3 @ 6lbs. Also with this app I was able to increase my Rev limiter. In the app there is a option for what is called rev x-tend. It gives you an extra 500 rpm.

Today I gave it a try and for most of the day everything was fine. On the way back I noticed mt AEM A/F gauge stopped working. Was showing 14.7 on start up and never moved. Do anybody know if you can buy the probe by itself or do you have to buy the whole thing.

You can buy the sensor separately. It has to be a Bosch one. I went through one as well and have since installed a new one as well as the Innovate bung extender to get the sensor out of the direct flow of the exhaust.

 

[Studroes144]

Well a 43 degree is gonna give ya 2 much belt squeeze at lower speeds. Sheaves will have a hard time letting go of the belt, on a dyno you would see better low speed HP numbers at the track with a steeper angle helix. But if you throw enough weight at it.....it will shift out hard like a steeper angle does.

35 degree helix on the sidewinder doesn't make much sense then, but seems to be working well for folks.

 

[Joshua]

You can buy the sensor separately. It has to be a Bosch one. I went through one as well and have since installed a new one as well as the Innovate bung extender to get the sensor out of the direct flow of the exhaust.

I have notice that the MPI setup has the sensor after the turbo, as hurricane has it before the turbo.

 

[ClutchMaster]

35 degree helix on the sidewinder doesn't make much sense then, but seems to be working well for folks.

First off that 35 degree is more like a 45 degree. It's also a roller clutch that means you don't need as much angle. Most roller conversions you want to drop your helix angle by 2-3 degrees to get the same shift caracterisics. The reason a 35 is actually more like a 45 is the helix diameter is bigger on the sidewinder, which creates less side force on the belt, thus you need less angle to achieve the same belt pinch. Things are not always as they appear grasshopper.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Illustration for grasshopper. Comprendy?

 

[ClutchMaster]

If Arctic Cat guys could understand this (But they can't because....well you know why) the belt blowing issues would be a thing of the past. But they insist on running steep helixes with the new style roller secondarys.

 

[Studroes144]

UPDATE!!

So since I posted this trend I have changed a few things with my sled. First was the clutching, I went back to the 51/43 helix with the purple spring wrapped to 0-1. I put 2 magnets in the heel of my d&d magnaforce clutch arms and shimmed my wastegate.

Over the summer I installed a cold air intake through the hood. A few days ago I tried this setup and I noticed I was running a little lean. At WOT I was seeing 12.5 A/F. I then download and c3 mobile app from dynojet, with the use of my phone I was able to increase the fuel at WOT. Now i'm seeing 11.3 @ 6lbs. Also with this app I was able to increase my Rev limiter. In the app there is a option for what is called rev x-tend. It gives you an extra 500 rpm.

Today I gave it a try and for most of the day everything was fine. On the way back I noticed mt AEM A/F gauge stopped working. Was showing 14.7 on start up and never moved. Do anybody know if you can buy the probe by itself or do you have to buy the whole thing.

Did the rev xtend work well on yours? I have mine raised and was very surprised at how much weight I needed to add just to get it to pull the same rpm as I was running before the rev xtend. That little bit of forgiveness on launch with the rev limiter increased really opens up a lot more potential for the sled.

 

[Joshua]

Did the rev xtend work well on yours? I have mine raised and was very surprised at how much weight I needed to add just to get it to pull the same rpm as I was running before the rev xtend. That little bit of forgiveness on launch with the rev limiter increased really opens up a lot more potential for the sled.

I love it. Didn't know about the feature until I plugged my phone into the the PCV. My sled is now working the way I want it too. Took almost 3 seasons to figure it out.

 

[Joshua]

I have the air fuel sensor on order. Hopefully that will be the last thing I will have to buy for this sled.

 

[Studroes144]

I love it. Didn't know about the feature until I plugged my phone into the the PCV. My sled is now working the way I want it too. Took almost 3 seasons to figure it out.

So you apparently have the ignition module as well? The rev xtend requires a code to be put in in order to actually raise the rev limiter. Rex xtend is the main reason I haven't used the 51/43 lately in mine. Rev xtend works great but will not work with certain clutch setups, when I tried it with the d&d weights and 51/43 and straight 47 for whatever reason the pc5 couldn't pick up the signal quick enough and was just restricted to the stock rev limiter. Now with flat profile weights it is pulling the straight 47 great and rev xtend is working as it should..hoping it will work just as good with the 51/43. Mine seems to be running best at 92-9300. D&d weights with straight 43 has more grunt down low but the flat weights with straight 47 come on stronger in the mid range, definitely a toss up so far.