I have never seen one break.
Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
That is a very generous offer. You guys have been extremely supportive and it's much appreciated. I have made arrangements to get the one on Craigslist but if that falls through you know I'll get a hold of you.
superfan75
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Dude that sucks. What a shame, you have so time and money into it. Hope you can get it fixed reasonably.
Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
Thanks man. Got to pay to play!
How tight were you running the track?
Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
Not tight, and rechecked a lot. The preload on the rear shock was 1" (only one thread showing) and the fra was @ 4.5 to 5. The trails were beat and we were riding hard.
I had an M10 in my Vmax4. I had a lot of teething pains with it but in the end I got it too work really well. Things I learned that worked for me were to run the track real loose with 2 to 2.5 inches of slack under the rails with the rear end suspended. I initially couldn't do this without ratcheting and I had to tighten the track after every ride. The problem was that the track had stretched to the point where it no longer meshed with the drivers properly and no amount of overtightening would help. Sliders wore like mad. The track tightens a lot when compressed with the M10. I think mounting the front arm in the top hole in the rails is supposed to help some. I know that running the track too tight puts huge force on the rear arm when compressed. I'm willing to bet that this caused the rear arm to break. I eventually ran out of track adjustment and replaced the track. I could run the track very loose and not ratchet and slides lasted a couple of seasons.
Another thing that really helped was to add a reservoir to the front arm shock. Doing that has the effect of making the front arm shock stiffer and seemed to reduce the G out bottoming that M10's are famous for and also stopped the need for continual adjustment. If I were doing this now, I would get the stiffest front arm spring available and maybe just try a thicker grade shock oil in the front arm shock.
Another thing that really helped was to add a reservoir to the front arm shock. Doing that has the effect of making the front arm shock stiffer and seemed to reduce the G out bottoming that M10's are famous for and also stopped the need for continual adjustment. If I were doing this now, I would get the stiffest front arm spring available and maybe just try a thicker grade shock oil in the front arm shock.
Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
I'm seriously considering just getting the M20 airwave booster kit and being done with it. The $1000 price tag is the only thing that has stopped me.
If I won a lottery I would have an M20 diamond airwave and the front Air Assault shocks set up like Northern Sledder. I just can't justify spending the money on my old RX1. Really my machine runs great and has been well maintained. I've done a lot of changes and it surely is a better machine than when it was new. After 14 years, I just want a change.
Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
New sled in your future is there?
Al Bundy
Lifetime Member
I emailed team fast today about the M20 Booster kit for the M10. If I do go this route all the parts that broke the last ride are in the kit. As long as I don't have to change mounting location install should be straight forward. I've read good things from you all about the M20.
4bangdan
Pro
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2005
- Messages
- 187
- Location
- Fort Kent, Maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2004 yamaha rx1 2015 yamaha apex xtx
m20 is the bomb. I would say the assault front air shocks are just about required with it though. But if you dont know what your missing its all good. Whole package youd be smilling all through the rough crap and feeling sorry for your friends.
5valve
Pro
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2013
- Messages
- 128
- Location
- N. IL.
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- Nytro, IQR, Redline’s, trailing-arm Polaris’s
The Apex is a great platform to build from. Lots of low-mileage/unused machines to choose from out there. Lots of leftover/unsold new sleds out there. Lots of aftermarket support to build the sled of YOUR dreams. Even if that means to slip that sweet engine into a Procross chassis. Heck, there's even companies out there that'll do it for you.
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