Clutching on the cheap

[stingray719]

Hey if you need any help setting up your clutch and have any experience with tools we can help.

Nothing wrong with buying a kit we are just do it yourselfers.
Stage 1 - by taking off the primary clutch cover (6 bolts) and put in a 4mm or 6mm shim (available at https://thunderproducts.com/shop/clutch-spring-glide-washer-kit/ or you can make one out of the last coil on an old spring). That gives you the big change. Approx. cost $0 to$10.00
Stage 2 - put shim from stage 1, green/white/green spring, and 8FS or 8FP (8FP are cheaper) weights in. Approx. cost $195.00
Stage 3 - like NOS-PRO and mine are, stage 2 with MBRP can (others may work as well) and Airbox mod. If interested the airbox mod is explained here http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/air-box-mod.129365/ in detail. Stage 3 in my opinion is the way to go. (Fuel controller most likely will be needed depending on altitude, add another $249.00 for PCFS) approx. cost $460.00 - approx. cost with fuel controller $710.00
Obligatory disclaimer, not responsible for damages up to and including including if this causes your dog to have puppies.

EDIT 10/5/2015 after much testing I now prefer the "Soft Touch Spring" from Barn Of Parts to the Green/white/green. The soft touch seems to have the same finishing rate but the take off is MUCH smoother and less track spin. He may also have some used 8FP weights for sale. http://www.barnofparts.com/Soft-Start-Clutching.html



1. New 8fp weights, 3.6 gram rivet, GWG spring, spring shims, $178.32
2. Same as above with 45/39 helix $263.27 NOTE: Helix has spring pocket cut to eliminate coil spring bind, no machining of secondary's is needed to prevent spring bind in the secondary clutch.



EDIT: all above assumes 8DN belt but not required


Many thanks to yamamarc for taking pictures of the install, please see below.





INSTALL BY YAMAMARC

Okay here is a step by step installation of stingray"s cotc kit
this was my first time ever doing any mods to a sled it was pretty simple to install!
To keep thing as accurate as possible if you experienced guys see any mistakes please let me know so I can edit!

First I removed the side panels, seat, the black plastic cover that wraps around the gas tank and removed the belt(note: the removal of the seat and black plastic cover that wraps around the gas tank is optional I liked the extra room)

Second I took the primary clutch cover off by removing the 6 bolts(10mm socket)
Be careful there is pressure from the spring I just kept one hand on the cover to remove the bolts


3- remove 1 weight at a time
place something under the clutch to catch any parts that you may drop accidentally
remove the clutch weight bolt( 10mm socket 1/4 inch drive with a universal and 10mm wrench)
then loosen the 2 allen head set screws that hold the pin(2.5mm allen wrench)
slowly remove the pin holding the weight and the white washer on each side of the weight

4-Grab your new weight (I installed the 3.6g rivet at the tip) and install it making sure 1 white washer is on each side
center the pin tighten the set screws and install the bolt(torque@ 4.3ft/lb)
do the same for the other 2 weights

5 I installed 4mm shims in my clutch cover and a new spring

6- Reinstall the clutch cover make sure you line up the x on the cover with the x on the clutch (balance) and install cover(torque the 6 bolts@ 10ft/lb)

Now for the secondary clutch
I installed a the new helix and shims and went 3-3 sprig wrap

first remove the 3 nuts on the secondary tower make sure to hold the helix while removing it there is spring pressure(12mm socket)

I installed 1 washer on each stud( the washer need a side cut off)

On the helix there are numbers and the same with the clutch
I installed the end of the spring in the hole marked 3 and the other end in the hole marked 3 on the clutch
Once you have the helix in and spring lined up you will have to twist the helix clockwise to install it on the studs(about a 1/4 turn)
install the nuts and slowly tighten making sure the washers cut edge stays in place
(Torque nuts @17ft/lb)

View attachment 107405
View attachment 107406

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[sxr70001]

Thanks for the reminder Stingray, I just put an order in to Pioneer for all those clutch parts.

I have a 46/40 helix to try which is pretty close to what Nos Pro is using, but I would like to see what and where the washers look like on the secondary to keep the spring from binding.

 

[weasel33]

Thanks stingray for reposting this. I'm doing this when my sled comes in.

 

[yamaha06]

Hey if you need any help setting up your clutch and have any experience with tools we can help.

Nothing wrong with buying a kit we are just do it yourselfers.
Stage 1 - by taking off the primary clutch cover (6 bolts) and put in a 2mm or 4mm shim (available online or you can make one out of the last coil on an old spring). That gives you the big change. Approx. cost $0 to$10.00
Stage 2 - put shim from stage 1, green/white/green spring, and 8FS weights in. Approx. cost $195.00
Stage 3 - like NOS-PRO and mine are, stage 2 with MBRP can (others may work as well) and Airbox mod. If interested the airbox mod is explained here http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/air-box-mod.129365/ in detail. Stage 3 in my opinion is the way to go. (Fuel controller most likely will be needed depending on altitude, add another 375-400) approx. cost $460.00 - approx. cost with fuel controller $850.00
Obligatory disclaimer, not responsible for damages up to and including including if this causes your dog to have puppies.

Good info!! I have a quick question for you I have the hurricane performance kit on my nytro and it includes the dynojet fuel controller, full hindle header and exhaust and an airbox mod. Do you know if I would be able to use that dynojet fuel controller on the new 2015 viper?

 

[shadow637]

Good info!! I have a quick question for you I have the hurricane performance kit on my nytro and it includes the dynojet fuel controller, full hindle header and exhaust and an airbox mod. Do you know if I would be able to use that dynojet fuel controller on the new 2015 viper?

Nope, completely different harness and ECU.

 

[cannondale27]

I would say yes you could since connections are same. I did notice some are bypassing the stock O2 sensor with a jumper. If you can I would discuss this with Ulmer. He would have a map for you.

 

[yamaha06]

Nope, completely different harness and ECU.

Ok thanks!!

 

[cannondale27]

Nope, completely different harness and ECU.

Injectors and throttle position sensors look same to me. That's all the pc hooks to

 

[shadow637]

Injectors and throttle position sensors look same to me. That's all the pc hooks to

The part #'s are different for the Nytro (22-025) and the Viper (22-057) so something must be have changed...

 

[cannondale27]

Maybe just the O2 bypass. Ulmer would know for sure.

 

[petey_sx700]

Are you running stock belt or 8dn?

 

[NOS-PRO]

Are you running stock belt or 8dn?

Good question! Yes, right now would be the 8DN belt.

 

[Kerrdog569]

Good question! Yes, right now would be the 8DN belt.

What would I need to change to run the 8DN belt?dealer said he would swap out my belts

 

[stingray719]

What would I need to change to run the 8DN belt?dealer said he would swap out my belts

On one of my Vipers it fit without any change. The other Viper needed the secondary adjusted by adding 3 washers. Your dealer will know how to do that.

 

[Kerrdog569]

On one of my Vipers it fit without any change. The other Viper needed the secondary adjusted by adding 3 washers. Your dealer will know how to do that.

Ok thanks ,I'm gonna switch belts then that's easy to do,do you guys think it's worth the money to have secondary machined? What are they machining?