• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

dialing in clutches.

thor452

Because I can
Joined
Jan 5, 2010
Messages
3,029
Location
Shawano,WI 54166
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2012 Apex XTX 2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
Hi all I have Ulmer's clutch kit and am in need of some fine tuning. I have the K helix and pink spring in secondary it was set at 6 or 3-3 and when I would slide to a stop the secondary would not return to closed and sled would not want to get going again so I increased that to 8. that fixed that issue but dropped my rpm down 400 and I need to gain that back in the primary. I have the adjustable weights in primary and have 3 spots on each side of the weights to add washers. I also blow up belts after about 500 mile on them if I go full throttle. This was happening before the change in the secondary as well. I think I don't have enough belt clamp pressure and I need to add back about 400 rpm can I move weight from one spot to another and accomplish this?
 

Hi all I have Ulmer's clutch kit and am in need of some fine tuning. I have the K helix and pink spring in secondary it was set at 6 or 3-3 and when I would slide to a stop the secondary would not return to closed and sled would not want to get going again so I increased that to 8. that fixed that issue but dropped my rpm down 400 and I need to gain that back in the primary. I have the adjustable weights in primary and have 3 spots on each side of the weights to add washers. I also blow up belts after about 500 mile on them if I go full throttle. This was happening before the change in the secondary as well. I think I don't have enough belt clamp pressure and I need to add back about 400 rpm can I move weight from one spot to another and accomplish this?

Did you call Ulmer?
 
waiting for a call back I'm sure he will get back to me just thought I would tap into the knowledge here I'm sure its a small change and he is so busy all the time I was hoping someone would say you get belt clamp pressure form hole 1,2or3 and you get top rpm from hole 1,2 or 3 and you can move one set of washers from hole x to hole y or something like that. I have never played with clutches before this so I don't know the basics too well. also on a 11 and newer apex what rpm are we shooting for? I'm at about 10,400 now and was at 10,800 before I made the change in the secondary. should I be shooting higher or is 10,800 the sweet spot like 07's
 
if you went from 60 degress to 80 degrees on the spring wrap your rpm should have increased if that's all you changed.
 
went tighter on the spring creating more resistance causing lower rpm. that is all I changes and lost 400 rpm. r u sure on your posting??? I have dropped it back to 7 to see if it will still back shift and maybe get some rpm back not tested yet.
 
went tighter on the spring creating more resistance causing lower rpm. that is all I changes and lost 400 rpm. r u sure on your posting??? I have dropped it back to 7 to see if it will still back shift and maybe get some rpm back not tested yet.

Tighter will give you more back shift.
 
okay well I don't know what to say I was at 10800 on rpm before and 10,400 after. it was the only change. in fact I went to a dealer to have them do the change for me as we were on a trip rode sled there 10,800 on ride there left shop more backshift and 10,400 after I left?? sled was left out side clutch taken in to shop by tech I had to come in and show him how to change it and I put it back on. 42.50 in labor not sure why he didn't pay me for the lesson but I paid the man and left right bac to the lake out side there door and had a 400 rpm drop?
 
Traction is everything and be sure to make the change the same day on the same track..
well I'm lost then you got anywhere by you to dial this in and will you be around this weekend?
 
went tighter on the spring creating more resistance causing lower rpm. that is all I changes and lost 400 rpm. r u sure on your posting??? I have dropped it back to 7 to see if it will still back shift and maybe get some rpm back not tested yet.
This doesn't make sense. :whine::whine:
 
[QUOTthor452, post: 1349854, member: 13896"]okay well I don't know what to say I was at 10800 on rpm before and 10,400 after. it was the only change. in fact I went to a dealer to have them do the change for me as we were on a trip rode sled there 10,800 on ride there left shop more backshift and 10,400 after I left?? sled was left out side clutch taken in to shop by tech I had to come in and show him how to change it and I put it back on. 42.50 in labor not sure why he didn't pay me for the lesson but I paid the man and left right bac to the lake out side there door and had a 400 rpm drop?[/QUOTE]
What change did he make to it?
 
First, If you lock the track up and the driven clutch is open it will not close! It needs to turn at least some to close back up! Depending on the driven spring you have going to 80* wind may cause coil bind and loose top end. Also not sure on Allens pink driven spring but aftermarket springs often have the spring tangs non aligned so if they wound it to 8 as you instructed it may be out in left field. As stated above winding tighter will increase shift RPM so the fact that you lost tells me it's not wound right! If you have the instruction sheet from Allen I would go back to where it's supposed to be or talk to him. If tangs are non aligned I'm guessing you would want a 3/0-3/1 wind and again that's a guess! 10,800 on an 11+ Apex I think is where Allen would tell you to be. And don't lock the tract to full stop! LOL
 


Back
Top