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Drag n Fly ?? Top end??

Turk said:
It may bring you down 100 rpm on top but your holeshot & mid will be way stronger. add 1 washer at a time & see if you likee. Easy to do with the clutch still on the sled.
Ya i do like that fact,that we can add or subtract washers while clutch still hangs off the crank end lol... i will give it a shot,but i dont think it will be this year as down south where i live is all gone,and ice is junk.
 

Turk said:
The black would probably be better for mountain sleds but can be made to work well anywhere. It just has lower preload & more total force.
I use the black with 2 speeds in my nytro & with those weights it works great!
Well turk i now have 96 studs down the middle on woody double backer plates and these are small 1.175 and 1.200 chisles so i dont get alot of bite w/1.25 ripsaw track,but i must say its enough to effect my slide and roost thru the corners that i used to be able to do,ok now to the DFW set up,i tried to install 3 washers in the od hole,it does not fit unless you want to remove some material from your spider,and i did not,so back to 2 washers for now,tip bolt only and center loaded 2 washers and heel 4 washers,before with out track studded it would rip right to 11000 and stay there,now it rips to 10500 and climbs to 10800 but if conditions are real hard it does still go to 11000 and hold and this is completely shifted out on primary to w/in .140 thousands measured w/verniers and all stock secondary,i have not even unbolted the helix yet and now have 1910 miles on sled and original belt,and the belt only has .010 thou. wear from new on width,this set up just plain works,and even on soft rr bed trail that was hard as nails the day before it still runs 106 gps and 122 speedo in 55 degree day temps yesterday here in maine,i dont know what if any i may do should i drop down to my 23 top gear,maybe load up the tip somemore to keep the rpms around 11000,that is where it seems to pull the best,as did all my other apex/attaks.
 
Drag & Fly set-up

From my testing what I think would be best is to load the tip to max and then add whatever you need to overdrive to get your rpms correct on top. I also found that on top they seem to like 10900-10950. No acceleration loss as long as you pull low and mid to about 80 mph. I been testing all winter along with Turks help and we found the best was to run no overdrive weight unless you need it to lower top rpms. I would try 5.2 in tip and 2 in od. I think this would be really close. Thanks Kurt
 
Re: Drag & Fly set-up

Woodysattack said:
From my testing what I think would be best is to load the tip to max and then add whatever you need to overdrive to get your rpms correct on top. I also found that on top they seem to like 10900-10950. No acceleration loss as long as you pull low and mid to about 80 mph. I been testing all winter along with Turks help and we found the best was to run no overdrive weight unless you need it to lower top rpms. I would try 5.2 in tip and 2 in od. I think this would be really close. Thanks Kurt
Hi kurt,thanks for the extra tip,i dont know how i can get only two grams in the od or any hole with the bolts i recieved in my kit,if the bolt along weighs 3.2 by itself,do you have some other bolt that screws into the threded hole that weighs 2 grms ? The max rpms are real close now to the 10900-11000 sense i studded it,before i studded it,it would just rip right to 11000 and stay there,but of course this was on some of the hardest snow i think i have ever seen on a bare track,but even now or yesterday on warm mealy snow and studded,it rips to 10500 than climbs to 10800 and when it gets on harder snow goes right to 11000,i am most likely done for this year,but will give your set up a try next,can you tell me how to get the two grams in any hole except the heel?? Thanks Pete
 
Stop at the hardware store and get some 1/4" set screws fine thread. Get some 1/2" 3/8" and 1/4" 1/2's weigh around 2 grams 3/8's weigh around 1.5 and 1/4's are .8ish These will allow you to fill in the gaps
 
justinator said:
Stop at the hardware store and get some 1/4" set screws fine thread. Get some 1/2" 3/8" and 1/4" 1/2's weigh around 2 grams 3/8's weigh around 1.5 and 1/4's are .8ish These will allow you to fill in the gaps
Thanks justin,i may even have some in my tool box.
 
Drag and fly

Sorry Pete. I forgot to mention about the set screws. Justin is right on about the set screws. I was a little tired last night a long weekend. Thanks Kurt.
 
Re: Drag and fly

Woodysattack said:
Sorry Pete. I forgot to mention about the set screws. Justin is right on about the set screws. I was a little tired last night a long weekend. Thanks Kurt.
Thats quite all right,i understand tired lately lol,so i can now fine tune it even closer with the set screws,when i had randy's CRA arm set up on my xp doo earlier this year,i had fabricated up some more weight that his kit did not provide and my set up worked better than his kit was able to get me,i like it when guys like yourself,turk and anyone else who tunes shares there info around,some tuners think it is so sacrid that its a sin to share,not me,and by the sounds of it,not you for sure either. Again thanks for the info. pete
 
SledFreak said:
Turk said:
The black would probably be better for mountain sleds but can be made to work well anywhere. It just has lower preload & more total force.
I use the black with 2 speeds in my nytro & with those weights it works great!

Turk, have you tried using D&F's with the stock spring? If so, what's your take on it.

I ran the stock spring with the D&F's in my '07 Attak. Worked pretty good. I liked the lower ingagement. I played with the mass of the weights to get the shiftng and RPM's where I wanted. I've ran Supertorquer stuff in almost all my sleds. I sold my Attak with the stock weights. I now own a '09 Nytro XTX. I'll try the D&F's in the Nytro this winter. I need to buy Randy's red spring for the Nytro.
 
i am trying the spring BPB 211 lbs/in with no weight on the d&f i get a ratio 1.17 for a total weight spring and d&f of 319gr vs yamaha apex ltx have 434gr total and a ratio 1.04
my set up go to 10500 rpm have read you you put strong spring to get performance you have to put a lot of weight if weight it's the ennemy of performance why not putting softer and light spring and put down the weight
 
Here is what I did to the D&f . go to hardware store and get some 1/4" fine thread x 3/8" long set screws 9 required and also get some that are 1/2 " long. Put a stainless washer on each side of the weight when you install them on your clutch. Put a stainless screw from the kit in the shoulder this is 2.2 grams. Put a 1/4 x 3/8 set screw in the rest of the holes. Use blue loctite. Stock secondary and stock primary spring. This should get you started.
 


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