stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
Hi!
Maybe buying -15 xtx le. Does the skid geometry mod work in xtx le too?
Like this but in 141 rail support
http://www.blocket.se/arvidsjaur/Boggie_forstarkning_Arctic_Cat_Viper_MTX_64638019.htm?ca=11
I believe the LE has floats all the way around?
Hurulau
Newbie
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- Oct 29, 2015
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- Snowmobile
- -15 Viper XTX LE (mcx270)
I believe the LE has floats all the way around?
There is floats in skis and rear. Center shock is coilover. I know that if i change stiffer spring to center shock, that will help. But, i dont want to get so hard chassis that sled just "drill" throught the snow in powder riding.
Sunvang
Extreme
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2009
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- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2018 Arctic Cat Hardcore EVO
2017 Yamaha Sidewinder BTX LE
I have a 2016 MTX stabdard without the float shocks, changed out the center spring shock to the AC 160#. It feels like it helped a little, but this sled is still to heavy on the steering and it feels way heavy in the front, coming from a Polaris so could be that, but ive tried Arctic cat Proclimb 800's, and they feel waaaay lighter and easier to steer. Any tips on what i should try?
I have a 2016 MTX stabdard without the float shocks, changed out the center spring shock to the AC 160#. It feels like it helped a little, but this sled is still to heavy on the steering and it feels way heavy in the front, coming from a Polaris so could be that, but ive tried Arctic cat Proclimb 800's, and they feel waaaay lighter and easier to steer. Any tips on what i should try?
stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
I have a 2016 MTX stabdard without the float shocks, changed out the center spring shock to the AC 160#. It feels like it helped a little, but this sled is still to heavy on the steering and it feels way heavy in the front, coming from a Polaris so could be that, but ive tried Arctic cat Proclimb 800's, and they feel waaaay lighter and easier to steer. Any tips on what i should try?
All my Viper tuning has been done with floats, but I can tell you for a fact both our XTX converted to MTX are as light in the front feeling as a 2014 M8 as I had one and tested against it. The video is correct decrease rear spring pressure first until it sits lower than it should and move back up a little and then raise spring pressure in front if needed to get more transfer until it is where you like it. Please note in my testing the spring equipped Vipers were more smooth riding but didn't take the big bumps nearly as well as the floats.
Sunvang
Extreme
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2009
- Messages
- 84
- Age
- 35
- Location
- Telemark
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2018 Arctic Cat Hardcore EVO
2017 Yamaha Sidewinder BTX LE
I think I screwed up, I tightened the spring on the rear shock also when mounting the center after spring change. Will try to loose it again.All my Viper tuning has been done with floats, but I can tell you for a fact both our XTX converted to MTX are as light in the front feeling as a 2014 M8 as I had one and tested against it. The video is correct decrease rear spring pressure first until it sits lower than it should and move back up a little and then raise spring pressure in front if needed to get more transfer until it is where you like it. Please note in my testing the spring equipped Vipers were more smooth riding but didn't take the big bumps nearly as well as the floats.
Yes, the standard non fox floats suck, dont like bumps or jumps at all.
stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
I think I screwed up, I tightened the spring on the rear shock also when mounting the center after spring change. Will try to loose it again.
Yes, the standard non fox floats suck, dont like bumps or jumps at all.
Yep that would make it REALLY heavy on the skis
Cool post...we redesigned our factory Yamaha skid 1976 more middle pressure..it handled like an IFS..which I didn;t see till the next season
It kind of pivoted on the front of the skid..allowing the rear to come around..going into turns in the high 90's no problem.....did it like one of the posts with 4 scales.
Excellent on starts as my weight planted the skid flat..
Just getting a XTX 146 after only having 2/
Good reading
It kind of pivoted on the front of the skid..allowing the rear to come around..going into turns in the high 90's no problem.....did it like one of the posts with 4 scales.
Excellent on starts as my weight planted the skid flat..
Just getting a XTX 146 after only having 2/
Good reading
Certainly a good base line for going straight...you need this understanding... what is not taken into consideration is "moving" that cg is going back past the rider under acceleration. Don't get me wrong..this base line test is excellent..What we need are load sensors on each of 4 points recording while in motion LOL .
M7000
Newbie
I ride an M7000 2015. Replaced the front shock spring to an AC 160#/260# spring, and it felt alot better with the steering. Much lighter.
A little digression:
Still having some issues with the rear fox float 3 shock, sometimes it saggs alot and i can lift the rear end about 7-8" up (without getting the track off ground), and when i drop it it sags right down. I understand some sag is normal, 2-3" maybe. Had the shock maintenanced but didnt resolve the issue. Sometimes the shock works properly, and sometimes i get the sag issue.. Wierd.
A little digression:
Still having some issues with the rear fox float 3 shock, sometimes it saggs alot and i can lift the rear end about 7-8" up (without getting the track off ground), and when i drop it it sags right down. I understand some sag is normal, 2-3" maybe. Had the shock maintenanced but didnt resolve the issue. Sometimes the shock works properly, and sometimes i get the sag issue.. Wierd.
Mtnviper
Vendor
I ride an M7000 2015. Replaced the front shock spring to an AC 160#/260# spring, and it felt alot better with the steering. Much lighter.
A little digression:
Still having some issues with the rear fox float 3 shock, sometimes it saggs alot and i can lift the rear end about 7-8" up (without getting the track off ground), and when i drop it it sags right down. I understand some sag is normal, 2-3" maybe. Had the shock maintenanced but didnt resolve the issue. Sometimes the shock works properly, and sometimes i get the sag issue.. Wierd.
How much air pressure are you running in the rear shock?
M7000
Newbie
How much air pressure are you running in the rear shock?
Ive been using about 150 PSI in the rear shock. But with the new front shock spring beeing stiffer i have reduced PSI on rear shock to about 130 PSI i believe.
Mtnviper
Vendor
125 to 130 psi is what I ran before switching to an EVOL shock and I usually get about 3" of sag at the back bumper. This would be sitting on level ground and not on sled dollies in the shop.
If the ground (snow) is uneven/not level, or if the sled is sitting on sled roll around dollies there will usually be more sag due to the way that the suspension is being compressed.
Another factor could be which holes the rear skid is mounted to in the tunnel. Normally the front arm will be mounted in the lower hole and the rear arm in the center hole.
If the ground (snow) is uneven/not level, or if the sled is sitting on sled roll around dollies there will usually be more sag due to the way that the suspension is being compressed.
Another factor could be which holes the rear skid is mounted to in the tunnel. Normally the front arm will be mounted in the lower hole and the rear arm in the center hole.
M7000
Newbie
Yea, i have the tunnel mounting in that position now. Was riding today with my GF and had 150+ PSI (my pump only goes to 150 on the numbers), and the rear shock was bottoming, and we were not going fast on the bunps. We are probably about 260 punds (130kg) together. And the shock has just been to maintanance. Really not happy with the float 3. Im gonna upgrade it with the EVOL chamber, if that doesnt help im gonna be looking into another rear shock.125 to 130 psi is what I ran before switching to an EVOL shock and I usually get about 3" of sag at the back bumper. This would be sitting on level ground and not on sled dollies in the shop.
If the ground (snow) is uneven/not level, or if the sled is sitting on sled roll around dollies there will usually be more sag due to the way that the suspension is being compressed.
Another factor could be which holes the rear skid is mounted to in the tunnel. Normally the front arm will be mounted in the lower hole and the rear arm in the center hole.
And sorry for the digression in the thread
Mtnviper
Vendor
Yea, i have the tunnel mounting in that position now. Was riding today with my GF and had 150+ PSI (my pump only goes to 150 on the numbers), and the rear shock was bottoming, and we were not going fast on the bunps. We are probably about 260 punds (130kg) together. And the shock has just been to maintanance. Really not happy with the float 3. Im gonna upgrade it with the EVOL chamber, if that doesnt help im gonna be looking into another rear shock.
And sorry for the digression in the thread
Yeah, the EVOL upgrade will help with bottoming out for sure. I found that I could run a few less PSI in the main chamber for a better ride, then adjust the EVOL chamber to control bottoming out.
Sag will be about the same but you'll have more usable travel to work with.
While they are doing the EVOL upgrade, I would have them re-valve it for your weight an riding style as well!
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