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HELP: 2006 Apex ER stall issue

It a bad ecu buddys sled did the same thing. Changed everything else (tps,plugs,messed with CO settings and idle knob) Took ECU out of good running sled and ran perfect. Bought a used ECU for hibsman barn of parts works great
that's what the yamaha dealer told me today. im going to borrow one from a friend and try theirs to see if that's the problem.
 

Update. Problem may be resolved. The dealership totally pulled things apart and did a huge clean out (throttle bodies, injectors, etc...) and now couldn't recreate the stall out. Also the "puttering" that happened at idle seems a lot better, almost gone completely. I'll be putting it though the ropes this weekend and see what happens. But so far so good.
 
Mine used to do that before I took the sled in for something else but the dealer said the ground wire was corroded and they cleaned it. I don't recall it doing that afterwards. I parted that puppy-out but me thinks me swapped the ECU into my new one, so I'll know if it's that soon enough.
 
It's back at the dealership again. Runs better but coming off the throttle stalls it out again.

They're swapping the ECU and checking the TPS this time around.

I'll ask them to check all wiring and connections for corrosion as you say 4fighter, thanks for the suggestion.
 
I am telling you quit giving dealer money and get good used ecu from hibsman25

It's all on their dime right now as this was an unknown issue the sled had when they sold it to me. The downtime is getting pretty annoying though. If they can't get it sorted out this time around I may tell them to buy it back.
 
It's all on their dime right now as this was an unknown issue the sled had when they sold it to me. The downtime is getting pretty annoying though. If they can't get it sorted out this time around I may tell them to buy it back.

please keep us updated. my 2006 Apex has been doing this off and on for years but ive never figured it out. its like sometimes the idle has a mind of its own. ive replaced the TPS, changed plugs, checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned the IAC, and re synched the throttle bodies with no luck. I was excited when I saw people having luck with adjusting the Co levels. Unfortunately, I ve tried all different combinations between +15 and -15 with no luck at all. Now this season the high idle doesn't want to kick in when the sled is very cold in the morning. I have to keep my thumb on the throttle until it warms up or it stumbles and stalls. Once warm it runs great but still stalls periodicaly when coming to a stop. I ran into a Yamaha snowmobile mechanic last week and ran it by him. He said that in his experience every apex hes seen that wouldn't go into high idle when cold needed a valve adjustment. My sled has 10K but he said hes had to do the valves early on a number of 2006 apex's. he explained that when its very cold over night it affects the aluminum motor and causes some valves to be too "tight" and the motor runs like crap. once warmed up it changes the clearance just enough for the motor to run properly. I don't know what to think..........
 
Another update:

They swapped out the ECU and there was no change. Ruled out ECU.

They replaced the TPS and I just had it out tonight for a good 2-3 hours trying all sorts of ways coming off the throttle (flutter the throttle, brake hard from fast to quick stop, fast to slow roll then stop, low RPM roll to off throttle and so on and so on...) and not a single stall out.

BUT!

The idle is extremely high sometimes when coming off and sits at around 3000RPM and then drops to around 2500RPM after anywhere between 10-30 seconds. Other times it drops to a better idle of around 2200RPM right away. I would rather see an idle of 1500-1800RPM. So here are my questions.

I have heard the ECU can take a little while to "learn" a new component. Is this true? Should I leave it like this for a bit and see if it'll "learn itself" to a better idle? or is that not so true and just adjust it down now regardless?
 
Another update:

They swapped out the ECU and there was no change. Ruled out ECU.

They replaced the TPS and I just had it out tonight for a good 2-3 hours trying all sorts of ways coming off the throttle (flutter the throttle, brake hard from fast to quick stop, fast to slow roll then stop, low RPM roll to off throttle and so on and so on...) and not a single stall out.

BUT!

The idle is extremely high sometimes when coming off and sits at around 3000RPM and then drops to around 2500RPM after anywhere between 10-30 seconds. Other times it drops to a better idle of around 2200RPM right away. I would rather see an idle of 1500-1800RPM. So here are my questions.

I have heard the ECU can take a little while to "learn" a new component. Is this true? Should I leave it like this for a bit and see if it'll "learn itself" to a better idle? or is that not so true and just adjust it down now regardless?


The ecu isn't going to change. It either works properly or it doesn't. A "hanging idle" is usually a sign of running too lean. I would say if it has to idle at 2200+ all the time then it isn't fixed.
 
The ecu isn't going to change. It either works properly or it doesn't. A "hanging idle" is usually a sign of running too lean. I would say if it has to idle at 2200+ all the time then it isn't fixed.

Actually you made a good point. I don't think they lowered the CO settings that I increased trying to correct the problem in the first place. I'll check and lower it back down and see what happens. Thanks for the reminder :)
 
please keep us updated. my 2006 Apex has been doing this off and on for years but ive never figured it out. its like sometimes the idle has a mind of its own. ive replaced the TPS, changed plugs, checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned the IAC, and re synched the throttle bodies with no luck. I was excited when I saw people having luck with adjusting the Co levels. Unfortunately, I ve tried all different combinations between +15 and -15 with no luck at all. Now this season the high idle doesn't want to kick in when the sled is very cold in the morning. I have to keep my thumb on the throttle until it warms up or it stumbles and stalls. Once warm it runs great but still stalls periodicaly when coming to a stop. I ran into a Yamaha snowmobile mechanic last week and ran it by him. He said that in his experience every apex hes seen that wouldn't go into high idle when cold needed a valve adjustment. My sled has 10K but he said hes had to do the valves early on a number of 2006 apex's. he explained that when its very cold over night it affects the aluminum motor and causes some valves to be too "tight" and the motor runs like crap. once warmed up it changes the clearance just enough for the motor to run properly. I don't know what to think..........

Following this thread. I have very much the same behaviour on both my 06- Apex (Warroir in Norway) with 12000km. When it's below -12 degrees celsius I have big problems to get it started at all, and if it starts I have to hold the throttle until the red "cold engine" light turns off. Have you had your valves checked?
 
Following this thread. I have very much the same behaviour on both my 06- Apex (Warroir in Norway) with 12000km. When it's below -12 degrees celsius I have big problems to get it started at all, and if it starts I have to hold the throttle until the red "cold engine" light turns off. Have you had your valves checked?

No I have not. I hurt my back after my first trip this season and haven't been able to ride since so it's been on the back burner.
 
I had the same issue for many kms, it started doing it around 20,000kms and I was not able to resolve the issue until 38000kms. I read all the posts and tried all the fixes, nothing worked. Exact same issues, stalling for no reason when coming to a stop. Raising the idle will help but only masks the problem and causes erratic idle and even clutch engagement due to high idle. Most likely this is what the dealer has done. Good news is I solved the problem and after 7k no issue. Bad news is there are 4 things I done during maintenance and I am not sure what was the fix. The 4 things I done are. 1 Valve adjustment, only 4 exhaust valves were out of spec. 2 Cleaned the temperature sensor, while the coolant was drained. 3 Found the main ground wire on the regulator/rectifier had broken off, this is in front right beside the unit, my front storage bag had damaged the connector, discovered this when trouble shooting the cps. 4 Changed the crankshaft position sensor and stator, this failed for some unknown reason immediately on start up after valve work, may have been related to the ground wire. Engine started and ran fine but failed on second attempt.
IMO the stalling is related to the temp sensor, since I never had a code until the cps failure. I removed it and cleaned with steel wool and brake cleaned. Installed with new 50/50 coolant.
 
It seems strange that such a simple idleing issue has plauged so many of us and there is still no definative solution to the problem. Last week I just picked up an 06 Attak with 11k miles. When I went to look at it, it seemed to idle fine. As soon as I got it home, the stauling began. So the first thing I did was search the problem on here and that resulted in me changing my CO numbers to -10 on all cylinders. It seemed to help for the first couple starts but is now doing it again. Mine seems to be the worst on cold start ups because I have to hold the throttle slightly open to keep it going. It idles good for like 20 seconds before I have to do this. After the light goes off, it is finiky for about the first 5 minuits of driving, then it works fine after that. I love the new to me sled but this idle issue is very annoying! When I was having carb issues with my old RX1, I said I would kill to have a sled with EFI.....but now I'm not so sure.
 


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