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Jayrtx766

Newbie
Joined
Feb 17, 2017
Messages
11
Age
34
Location
New York
Country
USA
Snowmobile
Yamaha nytro RTX
I am new the Yamaha sleds I bought a 08 nytro Rtx I was riding yesterday and my heat light came on a few times when I got home a noticed the The coolant bottle that you can see on the side on the front was to the overfull Mark ... when I left in the morning it was just barely above the lower Mark then tonight I had the sled in my garage and took off the hood and open the radiator cap and noticed that the Coolant wasn't full but in my coolant bottle at the sled of the sled it was full is this normal it was a warmer day to ride around 40 or could a have a cooling issue ??
 

I am new the Yamaha sleds I bought a 08 nytro Rtx I was riding yesterday and my heat light came on a few times when I got home a noticed the The coolant bottle that you can see on the side on the front was to the overfull Mark ... when I left in the morning it was just barely above the lower Mark then tonight I had the sled in my garage and took off the hood and open the radiator cap and noticed that the Coolant wasn't full but in my coolant bottle at the sled of the sled it was full is this normal it was a warmer day to ride around 40 or could a have a cooling issue ??
 
08 had coolings problems, wrong antifreeze mix from Yamaha but that was a long time ago and most likely the previous owner fixed that, I hope...
I would guess the light came on from it being warm out even though you were in good snow conditions, were you in good snow conditions?
1050cc motor gets hot quick under poor conditions/warm weather...
If it was my sled and being an 08 I would drain the antifreeze as it's probably do and refill with new antifreeze and take it from there...
If you still get the light on there are a few things that you can do that I've learned from fellow ty nytro owners and I've never had the light come on since in any conditions even on very long stretches of hard packed roads with minimal snow...
-- best one is the oem nytro mtx cooler or
-- add vents to the body work
Search both above subjects on ty there's lots to read with very good info...
 
No turbo or supercharger I have read on there The sleds run warm
 
08 had coolings problems, wrong antifreeze mix from Yamaha but that was a long time ago and most likely the previous owner fixed that, I hope...
I would guess the light came on from it being warm out even though you were in good snow conditions, were you in good snow conditions?
1050cc motor gets hot quick under poor conditions/warm weather...
If it was my sled and being an 08 I would drain the antifreeze as it's probably do and refill with new antifreeze and take it from there...
If you still get the light on there are a few things that you can do that I've learned from fellow ty nytro owners and I've never had the light come on since in any conditions even on very long stretches of hard packed roads with minimal snow...
-- best one is the oem nytro mtx cooler or
-- add vents to the body work
Search both above subjects on ty there's lots to read with very good info...
Th
08 had coolings problems, wrong antifreeze mix from Yamaha but that was a long time ago and most likely the previous owner fixed that, I hope...
I would guess the light came on from it being warm out even though you were in good snow conditions, were you in good snow conditions?
1050cc motor gets hot quick under poor conditions/warm weather...
If it was my sled and being an 08 I would drain the antifreeze as it's probably do and refill with new antifreeze and take it from there...
If you still get the light on there are a few things that you can do that I've learned from fellow ty nytro owners and I've never had the light come on since in any conditions even on very long stretches of hard packed roads with minimal snow...
-- best one is the oem nytro mtx cooler or
-- add vents to the body work
Search both above subjects on ty there's lots to read with very good info...
thank I am planning on change the coolant out what kind would you recommend 50-50 or is there any kind that would work better and I was think of putting a vent in two spots One on top just before the dash in another two on the sides just before the side panels to help get air in there
 
This works great for letting heat escape..
IMG_2196.JPG
I'm not sure on the coolant, I'm sure other members will help you on that...

When I installed the rear cooler I lost a bit of coolant which was blue in colour plus I needed some extra to fill the new heat exchanger so to be safe and not to mix coolants I just went to the Yamaha dealer and bought 2 litres of the Yamaha coolant...

I didn't want to do a complete drain since the sled was only a year old with about 1500km...
 
This works great for letting heat escape..View attachment 127832 I'm not sure on the coolant, I'm sure other members will help you on that...

When I installed the rear cooler I lost a bit of coolant which was blue in colour plus I needed some extra to fill the new heat exchanger so to be safe and not to mix coolants I just went to the Yamaha dealer and bought 2 litres of the Yamaha coolant...

I didn't want to do a complete drain since the sled was only a year old with about 1500km...
Thanks I saw that vent and am gonna install one and look into frog skin vents for the side panels and drain the old coolant out I upgraded the trail to a 1.50 ripsaw when I bought it had a 1.25 ripsaw with 144 studs I had a few studs come out and one put a good size rip in my track and I am not a big fan out stubs
 
ice sratcher is a must on those sled one thing i did on my sled to help with the overheating issue i wired the rad fan to a manual switch when the condition suck or the tunnel get pack with ice i flick it on from time to time or when the warning light come i keep the fan on for a few miles works great for me you can alway add the mtx cooler but they are expensif the yami coolant is a bit strong 60/40 but repalcing its to 50/50 help but wont fix the issue the nose vent and panel vent help a lot too
 
ice sratcher is a must on those sled one thing i did on my sled to help with the overheating issue i wired the rad fan to a manual switch when the condition suck or the tunnel get pack with ice i flick it on from time to time or when the warning light come i keep the fan on for a few miles works great for me you can alway add the mtx cooler but they are expensif the yami coolant is a bit strong 60/40 but repalcing its to 50/50 help but wont fix the issue the nose vent and panel vent help a lot too
Thanks I had the good off today and had it running for 5 to 10 minutes does the rad fan come or is this supposed to be running the whole time Because I did see it moving I may need to check fuses and relays
 
no she kick on and off just before the warning light come on its quite obvious when she on you can feel the heat coming out from the panel
 
Oh gotcha then making it a manual switch is a good idea how did you do that
 
find the fan conector pull the positive lead out of the connector on the fan side wrap your 14 gauge wire around the metal part of the terminal where the original lead is crimp you can solder it if you like to but once back in the connector she wont pull out this is also call "piggy back" buy a water proof fuse holder 14 gauge wire that to the positive on the battery fuse it 10 amp buy a good quality toggle switch 20 amp if possible she wont get hot even on all day battery to fuse holder to switch then switch to the new lead out of the connector et voila!
 
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My sled stock would run 220 ish on the temp gauge with the fun light coming on all the time. I added a mountain tech dash vent, mountain tech mountain cooler, and two mod rod vents behind the front shocks and now run Polaris 50/50 coolant (it was in the shelf). My sled now runs in the 175 range all day and just touches the upper 190's on a really long road run. I have not seen the light in 2 years. Or the fan for that matter. I let the sled idle for a the other weekend just to see if the fan would still kick on.
 
find the fan conector pull the positive lead out of the connector on the fan side wrap your 14 gauge wire around the metal part of the terminal where the original lead is crimp you can solder it if you like to but once back in the connector she wont pull out this is also call "piggy back" buy a water proof fuse holder 14 gauge wire that to the positive on the battery fuse it 10 amp buy a good quality toggle switch 20 amp if possible she wont get hot even on all day battery to fuse holder to switch then switch to the new lead out of the connector et voila!
Nice I'll have to make that summer / fall project or maybe took it up to the battery so it one all the time
 


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