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HID kit installed

I just installed my ddm kit today, was a breeze thanks to the info here! I had one issue though, the rubber boot that goes over the stock bulb will not fit the ddm hid lights. What have you guys done about this?
 

does the mounting flange and bulb still come apart? when I did mine the bulb could be removed from the mounting flange so you can install the mount first then the rubber and finally the bulb







 
I just installed my ddm kit today, was a breeze thanks to the info here! I had one issue though, the rubber boot that goes over the stock bulb will not fit the ddm hid lights. What have you guys done about this?
Huh that's odd. I never had a issue or thought twice about that part of it. Did you figure it out?
 
I have 3 apexs and 2 of them one bulb will stop while riding and I have to turn it off and
restart them, it will light for a while again
is it the bulb / transformer or ???
ddm 4300 kits with high/low
 
I installed a DDM tuning HID kit (35W, H4 High / Low, 4500K) in my FX Nytro. This was a very simple installations with no cutting or splicing wires. Everything plugged in with no problems and the installation took around 1hr. The HID DDM Tuning kit did not come with directions but I really didn't need them. The kit cost $35 (+$20 for the H4 high/low bulbs) and it has a lifetime warranty. I'll be ordering a second kit for my Vector. If anyone decides to install one and needs some assistance let me know, I'd be glad to help.

Thinking about ordering these for my 2012 Nytro XTX, are they still working for you? I am getting them shipped to Ontario and it comes up to just under $90. As noted I am skeptical about the huge difference in price based on other HID kits ive been looking at. If they are still good I am ready to order!
 
Going on 7 years since the Nytro install and no issues yet. I've installed these kits on several sleds since then and have had no reports of failures. I also run the DDM kit in my Viper and my 2014 Harley StreetGlide.
 
Have DDM kits on 2 sleds, 1 car and 1 SUV. Plug and play and no issues at all.
 
Are you guys running the factory kit that wires to the battery? Or are you all buying the sledstart patch cables and not using that part? Also, why does the part with the kit only have 1 three prong plug that plugs into only one of the old headlight sockets? Finally are you guys all removing the shields and caps on the HID bulbs or leaving them on? Thanks for the help!!!!
 
If you use the kit with the hi/lo control relay you power the lights off the battery and use one of the 3-prong headlight connectors to control the relay to toggle between hi/lo. I eliminated the hi/lo relay and installed the patch cables which plug into both 3-prong headlight plugs and powers the lights without the need to run a wire to the battery. I recommend removing the nose cone and modifying the notch in the shield to reduce the differential between hi/lo beam. Some will argue that you shouldn't remove the nose cone on the antiglare shield because the light will be to bright for oncoming sleds but I think as long as the headlight is adjusted properly it's not a big deal.
 
Do you put the shields in any specific direction? Facing up or down? Also do you wire the relay right to the positive terminal on the battery or off a hot wire that is only hot when the key is on?
 
run to the positive terminal of battery. The sheilds are installed with the notch portion on the bottom. The idea of the notch is to let light through to the lower housing reflector when the bulb pulls back for high beam. Some people remove the antiglare shield completely but I found it causes to much scatter of the light and doesn't help with hi/lo differential.
 


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