Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
Is a puller needed to remove the upper idler wheels from the shaft or is there another way of removing them?
Chisel on inner race from inside works.
Mtnviper
Vendor
Usually what I'll do is drive the shaft though with a plastic faced dead blow hammer. Also be sure to remove the snap ring!
Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
Ok I'll try these methods, I was thinking the same but seemed a little harsh. Thanks I'll give it another go.
BTbt
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If you remove bolt and plastic spring slide on rail on the side you are doing, lets you move spring on top shaft to get a better angle to drive bearing off.
XP123
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I haven't owned a sled with a Cat rear suspension since 2003 but I have a tool for pulling the rear wheels from the shaft on older Cat sleds. I wonder if the same tool will work and if you can still buy it. I will post some pics of it later when I take some.
Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
Pictures of your puller would be great, and where did you buy it ?I haven't owned a sled with a Cat rear suspension since 2003 but I have a tool for pulling the rear wheels from the shaft on older Cat sleds. I wonder if the same tool will work and if you can still buy it. I will post some pics of it later when I take some.
krm
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look up wheel puller kit # 0644-570 $280Pictures of your puller would be great, and where did you buy it ?
Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
I checked it out, $280... hammer and chisel worked. (Thanks cannondale) if your careful it's not that bad.look up wheel puller kit # 0644-570 $280
Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
Loosening off the spring made enough room to drive the bearing off, ThanksIf you remove bolt and plastic spring slide on rail on the side you are doing, lets you move spring on top shaft to get a better angle to drive bearing off.
XP123
TY 4 Stroke Master
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I paid 80 bucks for it and I ordered it through Arctic Cat. I think I bought it back in the late 90's and it's been sitting on a shelf for the last 14 years. It's heavy duty and has a few different parts to it for pulling different size wheels with different size bearings. It also has a tool for pounding the wheels back on. it is designed to not damage the wheels or bearings. If I remember correctly some of those wheels were very hard to get off without the tool. The Doo wheels come right off with no need for any tools.Pictures of your puller would be great, and where did you buy it ?
Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
I
Having said that anybody know any tricks to pull then press the jackshaft bearing ?
I totally agree that the tool works great, but $280 is a little steep. If it pulled and pressed the jack shaft bearing and other driveline bearings I'd be all over it.I paid 80 bucks for it and I ordered it through Arctic Cat. I think I bought it back in the late 90's and it's been sitting on a shelf for the last 14 years. It's heavy duty and has a few different parts to it for pulling different size wheels with different size bearings. It also has a tool for pounding the wheels back on. it is designed to not damage the wheels or bearings. If I remember correctly some of those wheels were very hard to get off without the tool. The Doo wheels come right off with no need for any tools.
Having said that anybody know any tricks to pull then press the jackshaft bearing ?
The one in the case? Yours has a clip like the updated shaft I put in and no wobble bearing so yours is even easier just skip the locking collar steps.I
I totally agree that the tool works great, but $280 is a little steep. If it pulled and pressed the jack shaft bearing and other driveline bearings I'd be all over it.
Having said that anybody know any tricks to pull then press the jackshaft bearing ?
http://ty4stroke.com/threads/7800mi...-change-2017-shaft-bearing-info.141330/page-2
Is other threads on it in Viper FAQ Drivetrain.
Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
OK, I'll check out the above thread, but I was referring to the bearing behind the secondary clutch.The one in the case? Yours has a clip like the updated shaft I put in and no wobble bearing so yours is even easier just skip the locking collar steps.
http://ty4stroke.com/threads/7800mi...-change-2017-shaft-bearing-info.141330/page-2
Is other threads on it in Viper FAQ Drivetrain.
Never had to do mine since greased it yearly and replaced as a assembly at 8000mi. It's pressed on shaft and also into the aluminum frame member so I believe you have to drive it out from chaincase side and then press it off shaft.OK, I'll check out the above thread, but I was referring to the bearing behind the secondary clutch.
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