Roadrunner
Expert
Both the proaction and M-10 might be parallelograms but the simularities end there. The M-10 is a falling rate suspension and the proaction a rising rate, I believe because of the linkage rods and spring. Never heard of a falling rate coil spring, does such a spring exist?
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
You won't find any falling rate springs for the specific application, but they do exist for OTHER applications. An alternative is to attach the relay rods onto the opposite side of the pivot (on one side or the other)... this would invert their effect.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
I just put some thought into the rear skid, and have to conclude that it would be EXTREMELY EASY to convert it into a falling rate skid.
This is how it is done:
Take the center mounting point. Disconnect the shock and relay rods. Throw the relay rods into the "extra parts" bin. Reconnect the shock to a bracket (custom fab) between the rails. Do something with the relay bracket with the two wheels so that it doesn't flop around and break something.
The further up and forward that the shock is mounted, the lower the rate.
BUT also note: The stock spring is progressive from hard to EXTREMELY hard, so without swapping it for a LINEAR spring, desired results may not be achieved. ALSO, a new shock is MANDITORY for this kind of adjustment. I do NOT recommend doing this unless you are a skilled welder and have what you need to custom valve your own shocks.
This is how it is done:
Take the center mounting point. Disconnect the shock and relay rods. Throw the relay rods into the "extra parts" bin. Reconnect the shock to a bracket (custom fab) between the rails. Do something with the relay bracket with the two wheels so that it doesn't flop around and break something.
The further up and forward that the shock is mounted, the lower the rate.
BUT also note: The stock spring is progressive from hard to EXTREMELY hard, so without swapping it for a LINEAR spring, desired results may not be achieved. ALSO, a new shock is MANDITORY for this kind of adjustment. I do NOT recommend doing this unless you are a skilled welder and have what you need to custom valve your own shocks.
170plus
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2004
- Messages
- 541
- Location
- washburn maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2021 polaris assault 850,18 sidewinder ltx,14 nitro xtx,06 apex rtx,
im not too impressed with the "touring" ride of the rx1 but when you pound it its not too bad,ive tried all your set-ups and the best ride ive found is to pull front shock on rear skid,set adjusters to just start to compress spring and tighten,loosen limiters all the way,reinstall shock and snug limiters to where they just start to compress shock and go another 1/4",then on the rear shock set adjuster to 4 and fra to middle,on the transfer rods us thin washer top and bottom and loosen adjuster nuts to top limit,im 230 with gear and this is the best ride i could get,still has a hard seat which is a lot of the ride but is now bearable,just replaced every bushing and 1/2 the bearings in rear skid,7000 miles and they were all worn out,the 2 back outside wheels were the worst and you cant replace the bearing,molded in to wheel,aftermarket $22 yamaha $85,went with $22,about $200 all together for just parts,that would have been a good down payment on my new 136 m10,oh well live and learn i guess,i think lazybastard is on the right track but we shouldnt have to mess with it or fabricate something to get a good ride,waiting for my 06 shorty mono efi