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MPI Supercharger Dyno Results

Andy , look at Hammer's post ,It's seems that fan set-up would help,What I also did when I installed the BPE hood scoop I had glued some rubber around the headlight base to divert most of the incoming air down thru the cooler, I'll see if that helps. Took noeprene rubber and cut it into a strip approx. two inches by approx. 20 inches and fastened it so it hangs down and rest's on the intercooler.
 

Good ideas-the hood scoop and louvered belly pan(BPE)are next 2 on my list-for a quick fix, dump a couple big handfuls of snow on that cooler(East Coast Fix)
 
I have hood scoop, louvered belly pan, and gauge pod in stock all BPE products.
 
Art, didn't get your PM on the hood. I will be in the shop tomorrow throughout the day. Give me a call there or shoot me a PM and I will call you when I am in the shop. 605-387-2833.
 
Hammer and you guys please note that the A/F ratio you show is from SuperFlow mechanical air and fuel flow meters, imo WAY more instant than wideband in 15 seconds. I just had similar deal with a machZ today, it took 15 seconds for the innovate to report actual conditions; warm up at part throttle before each dyno run was 13 or 14-1 normal for 10 seconds then blast WOT dyno holds at 5500 for one second then accelerates engine to 8200 in 15 seconds. My mechanical meters show 12/1 at 5500 and flat to 8200. The LM1 wideband shows 14/1 then gradually showing 12/1 by 8200 I will post those differences on my website. Be patient with your wideband A/F meters.
 
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*Added it into the "notes" section of the attachment posted above*

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Hammer , Thanks again for that info , Based on those calculations we should be safe @ 10600 rpms ( in reference to s/c speed) error to caution on long wot pulls based on individual sleds gearing .

I believe I located an intank pump that will adaptable to Yammi's mount ,am waiting for it to arrive, will post results as soon as I get it installed.
Hopefully MPI is accumulating all this info for the s/c kits for us sea-level guy's, I am sure Ulmer racing will have it they,re basically the same elevation as us out east .

Jim, did you notice a set difference in a/f fugures between widebanb and mechanical readings or do you feel it is random based on the individual gauges? Was wondering if there seems to be a corrected number you could use or just random variations? ;)!
 
Art -- Trying to analyze all contributing factors here so what were your MPI controller setting on that run ??? (I think I'm going to try the BoonDockers controller this season also)
 
Hammer, The Value.s we started with are as follows
START CORRECTED

Mode1 setting 2 ------ 2
Mode2 setting3.5 ------- 3.5
Mode3 setting5 ------ 5.5
Mode4 setting5.5 ------ 5.5
Mode5 setting1 ------ 1
Mode6 setting 8 ------ 8

These corrected numbers ended up giving us the best a/f ratio's, we tried changing mode 3 and 4 from highest to lowest on each one with really no apparent change except to make it dangerously lean, which in all fairness I would like to see the results after I get the new fuel pump installed, I am going to order the Boondockers controller tomorrow and leave the mpi in place and test both back to back. I have to call Jim and get it back up there after to shoot-out. ;)!
 
Thanks

Weird....I'm close to those settings at 6000-8000ft.

20*F, 12:1 AFR, 15+sec full load climbs...(low-end, mid-range AFRs 10-11-12 depending)

Mode1 -- 2 -- (Idle/pilot)
Mode2 -- 4 -- (Needle)
Mode3 -- 4 -- (Main)
Mode4 -- 4 -- (Boost Fuel Adder)
Mode5 -- 2 -- (Accelerator Pump)
Mode6 -- 7 -- (Altitude Compensator)

My sled idles/reacts to throttle input fine in stock configuration... As soon as I connect the controller and intercooler it will not idle/react correctly with the recommended MPI settings... Put it back to stock and it was fine... Reconnect intercooler/controller and I have to bump the Idle/pilot to 2 and Altitude Compensator setting up to 7 just to get it to idle... Any less and it lean chokes out and the only way to re-start is unplug the controller and plug the stock harness back in or catch the controller in its initial diagnostic mode and quickly richen it up before it runs the program... Bugs the crap out of me but it's not a showstopper so I'll just work around it... When riding, steady state throttle positions work fine, it's the throttle position "transitions" that I can't seem to get a handle on... They are either too rich or too lean... I can't seem to find the middle so I keep it on the rich side so it doesn't backfire and blow the intake manifolds off on deceleration.
 
I am wondering if the controller is possibly not sensing boost correctly, we could not get this thing to react in increments at all , It seemed like it was either all or none. My son had his mach on the dyno the same day with the boondocker and his changes to the box seemed more precise.
Anyhow I am going with the Boondocker , hopefully it will work out.
 
Hey Art, I think what a lot of people are wondering (and I haven't seen addressed yet) is how much more power did you make with the gauge pod installed? I know it looks a lot faster...! :flag:

Looks like you had a good session and came away with useful data. Happy tuning.
 
Jim , I think the gauge pod is very stealth, coupled up with the scoop it was probably worth at least 15hp. Although I believe if I change the color it will be faster.
All joking aside your pod is a life saver ,actually have enough room for everything :bling :bling

Allen is shipping me that ugly hood with the big hole in it ,am going to see about getting more cold air to the intake .
 
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