I had to laugh..when we moved to the lake 4 yrs ago first thing I did was have a rough oval out front..my 99 Phazer is pretty fast..short track out there.....blasted around it for hrs..when I came in Lorna said if your going to pretend race a least look like it...your riding sitting straight right up mid packer... .....what if somebody saw you???? LOl
So..race form may add couple mph
Non the less that is impressive.
I normally am back as far as I can be and laying on it but although it looks smooth I had my hands full. Too little ski pressure and the wind made it hard to keep straight! Thanks though. Can you tell anything about clutching watching the first vid that shows tach,speed and GPS? In end of that run where I push the button that is max rpm on recall feature.
Studroes144
TY 4 Stroke God
Just did a quick little test with a spring test here now that I finally know what the fully compressed spring length is, thanks RJH for that info. This is just a spring I had sitting here on the bench ( yellow white yellow) but was more curious what it looked like with 2 of my shims added, my shims measure 1.9 mm each. At 40.5 mm there's still light seen between the coils. My setup runs great with the GWG spring and has a slightly higher engagement with 2 shims in which my sled really responds well to so looking to pulling it out and getting that measurement with the 2 shims in there and see if it's close to binding or not. I'm geared for speeds higher than what I care to go on the sled so don't foresee it being an issue even if it does bind but will be neat to see.
Attachments
swampcat
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Is that how far the spring really collapses when the clutch is shifted all the way out ?
That's what RJH said in first post. Never checked myself.
Studroes144
TY 4 Stroke God
I tried to measure myself with a micrometer, very tough task and I could only get a very educated guess when I did it but I know I came up with right around 40 mm when I did it so it'd say the measurements RJH listed are accurate.
Studroes144
TY 4 Stroke God
Not letting me post my picture but just did the same test with a GWG spring and 3 shims, total the shims measured 5.6mm and when compressed with the spring to 40.5 mm the spring has a lot of travel left before it's even close to binding. I don't have a real big arsenal of spring but checked a half a dozen different ones now with 2 shims and none of them would have issues as far as binding goes. I don't need the shims for tuning but my biggest thing with the heavy turbo weights is that I need to get engagement up so glad to see these shims won't affect the full shift which I'll never reach myself, but nice to know.
So the average spring will compress down to about 22 mm, I think I said, before coil bind.
Happy with my final base work on my clutch..just a matter of tuning it..
You said....Bigger spring cause you have heavy weights....wouldn't lighter weight work with a softer spring?
gearing ..Yamaha OEM used to come geared for 150 mph...even my factory sleds came geared for some insane speed.
Today ..I see they fixed that.
You don't want to make your clutch do what your gears are supposed to do.
.............................Any you guys ever tuck your weights under?
Wanted to get my 99 Phazer done so I wouldn't have it laying around. I tried to bend a nice round front bumper.,but you can only bend if it ..by drawing the tube...screw it... I just welded some stuff together and it looks unique. All rebuilt except need a 5" skid wheel..unfortunately the Phazer needs wheels or it burns sliders..
Nice sled..my nice clutches..same belt since 2000.
No idea why it didn't have a bumper on it.. poor thing was in sad shape..all new bearings and stuff ready for another decade of running..
........This is neat....I set the clutch to upshift faster than it should..so I can get it up to trail speed.. say 60 kph..slowly let off the gas..it wants to shift up so it does..rpms drop almost 1500 to 2000 yet it maintains the 60 KPH if I stay smooth..saves a ton of gas....yet..if I pin it it comes to life and is very snappy...
My practice sleds were a 250 and 300 (learn momentum and balance) One day I took the skid wheels off my 250 and it friggin smoked the 300.
STAIN
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Feb 29, 2004
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- 4,164
- Location
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- Snowmobile
- 2022 SIDEWINDER LTX GT
- LOCATION
- Vermont
It seems the balance point between power/spring tension/amount of flyweight/ throttle response is the dance that everyone does. There is a number of ways to arrive at the same peak Rpm. What is the right way? Soft springs and light weights? Heavy springs and heavy weights? Somewhere in the middle? To me that is the fun in playing with snowmobile clutches, to find the best combo for my style of riding. And just when you think you may have your head wrapped around it , some one comes along with a new idea to try. It never ends.........but it is fun
Correct....there is NO END...and don't forget belt length..(changes the load) sheave angle..some angles just don't work....belt width...side play....why I think all weights suck at the start these days.....agggggg
In racing ..at a good level...many approaches can win.
It's the package..100 little things on the sled.so intense....just mind boggling..having had factory sleds..I can assure your there is no magic miracle engines...it is 100 little things.
If my sled engaged at 5k ..it made it to the first turn first..if I spun just for a milisecond I was 5th..
Going forward I hope we can get there.
Take guys like Hibbert in sno cross...his primo clutch guy is Houle...brilliant man...he clutches light ..his closest rival is Bender with his Polaris team..by looking at Bender ..stickers..in the past....I can tell he clutches heavy. Yamaha factory team clutched heavy...sno-x
Yamaha asked me to drive the SSR factory sleds one weekend in Markham..(holy #*$&@ was the 440 fast) after I had quit...heavy clutching and I hated it.
I like light primary somewhat aggressive springs .. not insane weight...
So.......I can still be enthusiastic..as we only got back into this about 3 years ago after being out cold turkey for decades..so I am fresh again..but old...
RJH what are you trying to accomplish on your Viper? Or what is you don't like about stock clutching?
113 mph..lol..
Seems I'm going to keep it.
Not interested in engine stuff..but .my sled runs crisp up to 7500 then I don't like the engine tone...still thinking about that.
The seating is too high..maybe a seat rebuild. It is heated thou..
Deal with the coupling so it doesn't suck the skis down.lower the front ride height to match..
Fox
Skis
Re engineer clutches..pretty well done that.
gearing I guess for say 110 to 115
Then try to dial it in...like I said..I spent 600 k of riding below 6000 rpm..so not much time left over here.
People I ride with say it is throaty..they can hear it over their 4/ sleds.
Gotta zing to about 8800 and sit there..then tiny climb.
Then re clutch so it upshifts too soon if I lug it so rpms pull down to low cruising rpm. like my Phazer.
So in a nut shell..I have no clue..
how ever I did finally finish my 99 Phazer..so real happy about that.
Seems I'm going to keep it.
Not interested in engine stuff..but .my sled runs crisp up to 7500 then I don't like the engine tone...still thinking about that.
The seating is too high..maybe a seat rebuild. It is heated thou..
Deal with the coupling so it doesn't suck the skis down.lower the front ride height to match..
Fox
Skis
Re engineer clutches..pretty well done that.
gearing I guess for say 110 to 115
Then try to dial it in...like I said..I spent 600 k of riding below 6000 rpm..so not much time left over here.
People I ride with say it is throaty..they can hear it over their 4/ sleds.
Gotta zing to about 8800 and sit there..then tiny climb.
Then re clutch so it upshifts too soon if I lug it so rpms pull down to low cruising rpm. like my Phazer.
So in a nut shell..I have no clue..
how ever I did finally finish my 99 Phazer..so real happy about that.
