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Oil Change Vector 2010 - Oil in tank and motor? - spark plug removal

Joined
Mar 26, 2017
Messages
142
Age
58
Location
Port Perry, Ontario
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2010 Vector ltx GT
2010 MXZ X 1200
LOCATION
Port Perry
I am in the middle of the laborious process of changing the oil and spark plugs on my 2010 Vector. I have a could of quick questions.

1. Do I put oil in the motor and the tank or only the tank?

2.Are there any special tricks to pulling the plug boots? They are very tight.

Many thanks
 

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3 quarts into the tank, start, let run a few minutes, let it settle 5 minutes, top off as needed. Screw in dipstick for proper level, or it'll be over full & just puke it into the airbox & leak onto the ground next season.

Pull, twist back & forth on plug caps. Oh, and lots of c'mon you piece of chit motherf^cker!!!

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Remember to reset oil change monitor, or it'll go off at 2500 miles since last reset.

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Thanks Catman, I really need to start getting the boat ready but I can't stop obsessing over the Vector. You mean Liters or Quarts?

Also, I guess there is no need to get at the top of the motor to access the oil cap.
 
Well us southern gents use quarts, you backwards up nort boys use litres. [emoji38]

3 full bottles, 32 Oz,. or .946L and top off as needed. [emoji106]

Nope, no need to put any in engine... BUT since you're there with plugs, it won't hurt to put a quart, sorry, .946L into the engine, and then 2 in the tank. Either way works.

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Well us southern gents use quarts, you backwards up nort boys use litres. [emoji38]

3 full bottles, 32 Oz,. or .946L and top off as needed. [emoji106]

Nope, no need to put any in engine... BUT since you're there with plugs, it won't hurt to put a quart, sorry, .946L into the engine, and then 2 in the tank. Either way works.

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When checking level on oil tank do not screw in oil cap. Manual say"s install dip stick but do not screw it in when checking oil level.
 
I know it does, but it's also been found that it winds up being too much & just blows it out the airbox. I fill it to "low" unscrewed, then when screwed in, it's "full/high". I've got about 12,000 combined miles on my 3 Vectors doing it this way, and never an issue.

I guess do as you please & I'll do as I please. Thanks.

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Got the spark plugs out, not too bad of a job. I used a screwdriver to break the bond between the rubber and the magnesium. Then,using catmans expletives, i began to curse, pull and twist....

Do you guys suggest using high temp anti seize when reinstalling? I also figure it's going to be impossible to use my torque wrench so I guess I need to calibrate my arm.


On a side note: Catman I think I am further south than you are:)
 
I'm in southern WI, where it doesn't snow anymore[emoji22]

Yes a dab of anti seize is a good idea. Especially knowing they won't be changed again for a long time.

Just be warned, that stuff is the herpes of the mechanical world. It's all fun & games till there's silver goop smeared on everything. Looks like the Tin Man jacked off in your garage.[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

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i coated the coils on my rx with dielectric grease and they are still easy to pull to this day.
 


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