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Oversized idler wheels? Any problems with using them?

apltx08 said:
Len Todd said:
I machined the outer mounts. If you leave them long, the wheels tend to curl the track edge down. Another way of saying this is: the wheels are so far out toward the edge of the track that they stretch the track excessively.

I've ridden 10.000kms without the 4 front outter machined w/6205 bearings...1st of herd of track CURLING your talking 1.5mm farther out...

Then how do you explain the rear axle outter wheels their running even closer to the edge of the track on all makes of sleds and the tracks don't CURL. :dunno:

Here's a pic of how much you have to machine...


Nice pics... jsut curious do you have measurements of the mount before you machined it? Just the length? I am doing a friends sled and it looks as though it has already been machined some but he claims its stock.

-Thanks
Ray
 

i too an still the fence after reading all the post about wheels. i put the bigger and wider wheels on the out side. but really didn't want to machine the mounts if i didn't have too and by reading a post where someone put the biggr wheels on the inside w/ the mounts already machine and still getting the wheel chewed up, makes me wonder is the best thing to do.
 
WOW! 7 pages later and I'm :o|
Does Pioneer Perf. make a kit that has wheels with replaceable bearing? If not, has anyone ever made that suggestion to them?
 
06apexrtx said:
i too an still the fence after reading all the post about wheels. i put the bigger and wider wheels on the out side. but really didn't want to machine the mounts if i didn't have too and by reading a post where someone put the biggr wheels on the inside w/ the mounts already machine and still getting the wheel chewed up, makes me wonder is the best thing to do.

If their getting CHEWED-UP the mounts aren't to spec, you have to shave of 1.5mm off the base when using "6205" bearings as per my pic in earlier post and I've been running them now for over 20.000kms on 2 sleds so for with no problems what so ever and I've also done 2 other sleds with no issue's...for the 4 front outter you do not have to machine mounts.
 
mrjimbov said:
WOW! 7 pages later and I'm :o|
Does Pioneer Perf. make a kit that has wheels with replaceable bearing? If not, has anyone ever made that suggestion to them?

You are confused because people refuse to thoroughly read the post on how to modify the mounts to accept the 6205 bearing. Do it right and you won't have trouble, just longer life out of your sliders.

Pioneer doesn't make a kit with replaceable bearings, but offer spacers that lower the stock idlers.
 
Just me, but I ran the Polaris wheels for 400 miles.
they calipered out at 5.4 something and I thought they were a little too big.

And I thought, like Port said, with them hanging down that far that if you hit a rock the right way, it could crack the rail.

I switched to the skidoo wheels which are sized right between the Yamaha and Polaris wheels.

Thrilled because with the larger wheels and the SLP wear pad, I got 1200 miles on the latest set of hyfax and the hyfax are worn only about 30%.

And the sled coasts further too and it has lessened the off throttle braking that the 4 strokes are known for and...... my sled is a lot faster now :D
Do u have a part # on the number
 
Not sure if the excell wheels are to blame but I have a track failure on my hands. The fiberglass rods are breaking through where the idler wheels run on my track. I have contacted camoplast about it, they blame, seized bearings, frozen track, or over sizedwheels. Also contacted Aaron Excell at excell motorsports and he says he's never had an issue with these wheels. I know I have to replace my track, just not sure if I'm going to continue to use the x wheels?? Thoughts?
 

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I had that same thing happen on ripsaw on my old vector with stock wheels and no studs.My track was delaminating also and it lasted 500 miles.I was told it was from low snow conditions and high speed running.
 
I have experienced the same thing with two 14" wide tracks on my Apex. In my case, I had Polaris sized wheels, and the ends of the bars on the 14" track are dead center under those outside wheels....so they get 'peened' by the wheels.
That's my opinion as to why mine did this....

Running the larger wheels, are your wheels slightly further out from the rails? That would then replicate what I had happening with the 14" tracks....
 
They dont stick out any further than the OEM wheels. They run in the same spot as the OEM rear wheels. Not sure what caused the damage, but I know I have to replace the track.
 


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