PTO side front axle bearing

[SumpBuster]

Any shortcuts to change the PTO side bearing? Going to help a friend and the bearing ate the backing plates and speed sensor, but wondering if it can be changed with the slides still in, as in dropping the front only (08 Vector).
Just did a track and another suspension, so it's not bad, but always looking for easier methods. Not at my house so can't really sit and stare at it thinking...

 

[steiner]

If you back off the track tension you can wiggle out the bearing and get it back in . It takes a bit but it will go

 

[SumpBuster]

Thanks, but we have to put in the new back plate as it got destroyed. Yeah, would been nice to not have to take the chaincase apart but need to slide the axle to get it out of the hole. Good thing it threw the tors code or it would have started eating the tunnel.

 

[bjowett]

No short cuts that I can recall, but don't forget to install the defector 8fn-47377-00-00, it came standard on many 2010 and up sleds. It helps keep snow/ice/water from penetrating the bearings seal.

 

[SumpBuster]

Thank you. I didnt know about that deflector. It failed after riding through lots of mud and water holes weeks ago. Not sure if that contributed, as I needle grease all our sleds several times a season and always get a few drops of water out. His was bone dry so it's never been greased. In this pic the spot on the floor is water after greasing one monday. Maybe I'm just lucky but combined mileage of 20,000 mIles on the 4 strokes we've had, never had one fail. Turn very free in fact. I have new one in the box, but am kind of seeing if greasing them helps. I'm convinced it does. Same with idlers. They alway's get rusty, especially the rear axle idlers.

 

[SumpBuster]

If you back off the track tension you can wiggle out the bearing and get it back in . It takes a bit but it will go

Thank you. There was minimal damage to the inner plate and the bearing diameter was fine. I lightly sanded the axle and kept working the inner race (that's all that was left) until it slid off while my friend held the shaft in the center. New one slid on perfect, new outer plate and speed sensor, tighten track and she's ready to go! Saved a ton of work, and even with a broken bearing! Just changing an old one should be super easy.

 

[Metallicat]

I have never heard about the 8fn-47377-00-00 cap! Why am I just now finding out about this? $10 part.

 

[SumpBuster]

While I appreciate any advice, I do not see this device or cap protecting much of anything. I found good old grease to be the solution to long bearing life and keeping water out and rust to a minimum. This sled is mint, low miles 08 anniversary vector, and the bearing had some rust and failed. Looks like it siezed and broke the outer race and split the inner in 2. What is strange is it triggered the tors, and stuttered the engine. Once I got on it I saw the code for the speed sensor, and then saw the destroyed sensor. You could not feel anything wrong riding it!
I have never lost an idler to a failed bearing, yet I have rescued many with fried rear idlers and have seen the wheels come right off while riding. I have broken idler wheels off, but zero bearing failures. When they get very loose even after greasing, I change them. Been greasing them since the early 80's when my skiroules got retired and started buying ski doos, and organized trails meant longer distance riding.
I needle greased all Jackshaft (heat is the concern there) and pto axle bearings and when changing a track they spun so nice I put them back in with thousands of miles on them! Since I would still grease them, I don't see the necessity of this deflector. I wouldn't trust it to be water proof. Just my opinion.

 

[bjowett]

It has been mentioned over the years, time to sticky the info?

I agree with greasing the bearings, especially at seasons end. However, the deflector is well designed and works great at significantly reducing water ingress, no BS. The seal lip is entirely blocked by it, and most water/ice/snow that does sneak by is thrown back off by the rotation/centrifugal force.

 

[SumpBuster]

It has been mentioned over the years, time to sticky the info?

I agree with greasing the bearings, especially at seasons end. However, the deflector is well designed and works great at significantly reducing water ingress, no BS. The seal lip is entirely blocked by it, and most water/ice/snow that does sneak by is thrown back off by the rotation/centrifugal force.

Sounds good, as long as you don't park in 2 feet of water!! I can see it creating a vortex while spinning. But they are so easy to grease.....Im thinking now maybe moly grease would be best, in water environments, even over synthetic....that stuff just doesn't come off your hands! Not sure if it still has graphite..the epa bans everything good.
Almost forgot...do they recommend that for both sides? The chain case side has a regular seal....

 

[thor452]

no it is just on pto side and it is amazing to me too but it works.

 

[Mills]

I drilled a hole in my speedo drive housing and put a grease zerk in it so that I can keep the cavity space between the bearing and housing full of grease. This keeps the water out at all times.

 

[YukonMP]

This is a question for SumpBuster. I'm still pretty new at this. I think I know what you are describing but just want to make sure. When you needle grease the bearings you carefully pull off the seal, insert a grease needle between the bearings and pump her full. Good to hear this actually displaces the water. I much prefer getting in the habit of lots of routine maintenance that prevents/delays breakdowns and repairs.

When I next have a look at my sled I'll be considering Mills' suggestion in the above post, sounds good to me.

Thanks guys, this site keeps me rolling easy!

 

[steiner]

Check this write up with pics
http://ty4stroke.com/threads/driveshaft-jackshaft-bearing-regrease-step-by-step.52677/

 

[YukonMP]

Thanks steiner, I think you may be the king of the mods in terms of advocating searches and providing links.