lakercr
Tech Advisor
I wasn't happy with the transfer (or lack of) on my 137 skid, so the blocks are out for now.
1/2 inch socket on the impact and the bolts are out. Remove shaft and then remove blocks from shaft. Re-install shaft (w/ blue loctite) with bolts not quite tight, compress the skid to index the flat section of the shaft. I marked the flat with a paint pen and then tightened the two bolts again. It isn't that important that the flats are perfectly aligned to where the rear scissor will contact them; the first full compression of the rear end will take care of that. This just makes sure they are reasonably close...
1/2 inch socket on the impact and the bolts are out. Remove shaft and then remove blocks from shaft. Re-install shaft (w/ blue loctite) with bolts not quite tight, compress the skid to index the flat section of the shaft. I marked the flat with a paint pen and then tightened the two bolts again. It isn't that important that the flats are perfectly aligned to where the rear scissor will contact them; the first full compression of the rear end will take care of that. This just makes sure they are reasonably close...
Doc Harley
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Thanks! Do we have results, if any, from this mod yet.
lakercr
Tech Advisor
I just did this 10 minutes ago. Others will have to answer until I can get out for a ride tomorrow night.
Shagnos
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Yep it works but still needs more.
AXR
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Won't taking the blocks off cause wear on the metal stops on the bar over time?
done dooin'_winder up
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does it affect ride in any other way? my straps came on last hole already, went up two turns on center, only 96 studs. rides good now but i haven't really jumped on it from stop. my first attempt to finally peg it yesterday i got on it before cresting a tiny hill for a mile long straight ahead. i looked at speedo 104 at 8300 look back up and oh sh....i had 15 turkeys in the middle of the road about 100 feet away. somebody tellin me it wasn't the day.
lakercr
Tech Advisor
Tomorrow is promised to no one; I want more transfer today.
Seriously - maybe a bit, but nothing I'm worried about. That shaft is probably less than $50 if it ever gets worn/I want blocks back in.
Seriously - maybe a bit, but nothing I'm worried about. That shaft is probably less than $50 if it ever gets worn/I want blocks back in.
Mighty
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I took my blocks off and cut off two chunks of some underground nylon conduit and stretched them onto the rod. I didn't want metal to metal contact.
So..you want it to transfer later then.. or latter couple
When the arm finally hits the bar the front of the skid will pull up.
When the hits the transfer block the rear spring and the middle spring will work together.
That's what you want right?
I am having a hard time getting my 2016 single block off (Loctite) as I don't want it to suck up the front so soon and use the front spring.
I would glue a pc of rubber on that as it will "upset" your ride feel when it clunks..
When the arm finally hits the bar the front of the skid will pull up.
When the hits the transfer block the rear spring and the middle spring will work together.
That's what you want right?
I am having a hard time getting my 2016 single block off (Loctite) as I don't want it to suck up the front so soon and use the front spring.
I would glue a pc of rubber on that as it will "upset" your ride feel when it clunks..
Sledroll
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can you post a pic of your solution to metal on metal ?I took my blocks off and cut off two chunks of some underground nylon conduit and stretched them onto the rod. I didn't want metal to metal contact.
WINDER1987
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I took blocks and rod out and drove it 20 miles today on hardpacked very good transfer now when seated it pulls the skis a foot off the ground then lowered to about 6-8" until I let off
lakercr
Tech Advisor
Are you asking me if I understand what the change effects, or trying to confirm your own understanding?So..you want it to transfer later then.. or latter couple
When the arm finally hits the bar the front of the skid will pull up.
When the hits the transfer block the rear spring and the middle spring will work together.
That's what you want right?
I am having a hard time getting my 2016 single block off (Loctite) as I don't want it to suck up the front so soon and use the front spring.
I would glue a pc of rubber on that as it will "upset" your ride feel when it clunks..
Sorry, it isn't clear from what you wrote.
**sj**
Lifetime Member
I took blocks and rod out and drove it 20 miles today on hardpacked very good transfer now when seated it pulls the skis a foot off the ground then lowered to about 6-8" until I let off
you like that eh! I told you youd get transfer like that...now if you over transfer you can dial up the shocks compression and the limiter straps one hole....not a great trail setup ...but she'll love the straights
Mighty
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I don't have a pic right now. The conduit wall is about the thickness of heater hose but a little smaller in diameter. Heater hose was too large. This stuff was so tight I had to heat it up to slip it on.can you post a pic of your solution to metal on metal ?
WINDER1987
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Ya it was a lot of fun tonight like that. How do you plan on setting yours for a trail setup? It's hard for me to even think about it too much until I get rid of the tuner skis lolyou like that eh! I told you youd get transfer like that...now if you over transfer you can dial up the shocks compression and the limiter straps one hole....not a great trail setup ...but she'll love the straights
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