I want to replace the pulleys on the supercharger. I bought the sled with the SC already installed so I don't know how it was installed and I don't have the MPI instructions. Can someone tell me what I need to do to replace the pulleys? At least the top pulley, I may leave the bottom alone. Currently it is 28/28 combo.
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I want to replace the pulleys on the supercharger. I bought the sled with the SC already installed so I don't know how it was installed and I don't have the MPI instructions. Can someone tell me what I need to do to replace the pulleys? At least the top pulley, I may leave the bottom alone. Currently it is 28/28 combo.
Its a process.. U could call MPI for instructions. You have to pull the taper lock set screws. Might have to add some heat to get the lock-tite to let loose. Then take one of the set screws and put it into the other tapped hole and it will put some pressure on the taper lock to reverse the installation. Once under some pressure with the set screws you should be able to tap it with a rubber mallet and it will pop off. To reinstall, the pulleys will need to be heated with the taper lock hubs installed.
http://viper.mountainperformance.com/INSTRUCTIONS_ep_45.html
Yeah, that's a little more than I was expecting!
kinger
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Actually getting them off isn't horrible but my gawd aligning them really taxes your patience as a casual mechanic, I'm sure shops develop a rythm but I did mine last year for the first time and yeah not fun. Make sure to get a new belt so in case your misaligned and it blows you have one on the ready and it doesn't cost a trip.
thor452
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It is not that bad guys you need a Allen wrench and a straight edge and a mallet and some lock-tite. you have 3 set screws remove them hit the pulley with the mallet don't damage it. it will pop off the inner hub once it is loose it will slide off. put new pulley on hub and install on shaft put set screws back in loosely with lock-tite. put straight edge on the face of the pulleys when all four of the edges of the pulleys touch the straight edge it is good. tighten up the set screws re-check with straight edge it will move out as you tighten so compensate by starting a little closer to the bracket with the pulley. tighten all 3 set screws evenly so the pulley don't wobble. when it is tight and straight edge sits flat across both pulleys you are good. takes about 30 minutes to do.
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It is not that bad guys you need a Allen wrench and a straight edge and a mallet and some lock-tite. you have 3 set screws remove them hit the pulley with the mallet don't damage it. it will pop off the inner hub once it is loose it will slide off. put new pulley on hub and install on shaft put set screws back in loosely with lock-tite. put straight edge on the face of the pulleys when all four of the edges of the pulleys touch the straight edge it is good. tighten up the set screws re-check with straight edge it will move out as you tighten so compensate by starting a little closer to the bracket with the pulley. tighten all 3 set screws evenly so the pulley don't wobble. when it is tight and straight edge sits flat across both pulleys you are good. takes about 30 minutes to do.
Your missing the most important step, preheating the pulleys and taper locks when reinstalling. http://www.mountainperformance.com/Files/TSB/TSB-502B Sprocket.pdf
thor452
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That is not a part of my instructions at all. nice to know all this info. I guess I am lucky I didn't have a frailer on mine. Sure wish it was in my install guide that I downloaded.Your missing the most important step, preheating the pulleys and taper locks when reinstalling. http://www.mountainperformance.com/Files/TSB/TSB-502B Sprocket.pdf
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That is not a part of my instructions at all. nice to know all this info. I guess I am lucky I didn't have a frailer on mine. Sure wish it was in my install guide that I downloaded.
It happened to me and your correct it was not in my instructions either. Thats why I posted about it being a pain in that butt.
thor452
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well I just redid mine this weekend' as I was in there for an oil leak,and I used a hot plate and a inferred thermometer to check temp it got hot pretty fast and went together better than ever before and the pulleys have never been more true so it worked pretty slick thanks for posting.
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well I just redid mine this weekend' as I was in there for an oil leak,and I used a hot plate and a inferred thermometer to check temp it got hot pretty fast and went together better than ever before and the pulleys have never been more true so it worked pretty slick thanks for posting.
Your welcome.
kinger
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I didn't use heat, mine is old school though with steel pulley's. I think the heat is just for the aluminum ones correct?
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I didn't use heat, mine is old school though with steel pulley's. I think the heat is just for the aluminum ones correct?
I thought mine was old school..LOL, This heat thing is for the pulleys that are alum with steel or cast tapper lock hubs.
taylor lemke
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what does the heating do when reinstalling?
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what does the heating do when reinstalling?
There are 2 different materials, and this will help set the Alum pulley on the steel taper lock.
taylor lemke
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okay so you heat them and then let them cool? do you put in set screw before or after heating?
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