Theblackbullet
Veteran
So I posted some stuff about this last year I do believe and still my sled acts the same. It idles very rough and you can never pin the throttle from the start or an idle position, it will hesitate and almost stall out. While it idles it will also pop and backfire. It has been in to the shop 4 times now I think and the lastest is that possibly my exhaust is causing it. I bought the sled with a bender exhaust and was wondering if anyone else has experienced the same problem? The bender boys told us that they pretty much gut a stock can and this can cause the system to not create enough back pressure on the engine. Again, has anyone else experienced this?? Thanks[/code]
DV8
VIP Member
Its not the exhaust, Carbs or air leak. My bet its the carbs and jets are dirty. Clean carbs extremly well. run a piece of wire thru the passages, from a large wire brush. clean all 3 jets in each carb.
Let us know what you find... Pics help out alot also. make sure air/fuel screw is 2 turns out.
Let us know what you find... Pics help out alot also. make sure air/fuel screw is 2 turns out.
Theblackbullet
Veteran
The carbs were just cleaned, and they were cleaned 3 times last year. 1 jet was plugged but they are all good now and it didn't help. where should I look for leaks and such??
DV8
VIP Member
Look for leaks where carbs meet intake boots, and where airbox bolts on to carbs. If you havent cleaned them this year then they should be cleaned again. have it running use some starting fluid and spray a area where you think it could be leaking air, if it leaks then the motor will rev up slightly.
Also could be the coils, clean them with brake clean or contact cleaner.
Also could be the coils, clean them with brake clean or contact cleaner.
Could be ignition related, what do the plugs look like? if one plug is wet/fouled ect I would swap that coil to another cylinder and see if the problem moves to that cylinder. Is the TORS working properly? Probably would be good to do a compression test, and check/set the valves also, eliminate a few things that way.
dhkr123
Expert
Electrical!
Those symptoms sound EXACTLY what I had with mine this year... diagnostics was fun, stumped the dealer, stumped the internet, turned out that my aftermarket clutch weights became MAGNETIZED, and were throwing an EM field that messed with the ECU!
Solution and/or experiment: remove the ecu and wrap it in ALUMINUM FOIL (all the way around) and bolt back down. I know, sounds weird, but this creates an EM barrier protecting the ECU from variable EM fields. Make sure that the aluminum foil is electrically connected to the chassis. See if that works!
If it works, then you have magnetized clutch weights. A few possible solutions;
1) try to demagnetize them, either heat them to red hot with a torch, though I don't recommend this since it could cause structural problems, or repeatedly impact them sharply, i.e. hit it with a hammer lots of times. Again, I don't recommend it since it could damage the weights and cause a major explosion.
2) replace the weights, with new non-magnetized ones.
3) leave the aluminum foil in place indefinitely. The magnetized weights may interfere with the likes of walkie-talkies, but if this doesn't matter to you, then the barrier will be fine.
Those symptoms sound EXACTLY what I had with mine this year... diagnostics was fun, stumped the dealer, stumped the internet, turned out that my aftermarket clutch weights became MAGNETIZED, and were throwing an EM field that messed with the ECU!
Solution and/or experiment: remove the ecu and wrap it in ALUMINUM FOIL (all the way around) and bolt back down. I know, sounds weird, but this creates an EM barrier protecting the ECU from variable EM fields. Make sure that the aluminum foil is electrically connected to the chassis. See if that works!
If it works, then you have magnetized clutch weights. A few possible solutions;
1) try to demagnetize them, either heat them to red hot with a torch, though I don't recommend this since it could cause structural problems, or repeatedly impact them sharply, i.e. hit it with a hammer lots of times. Again, I don't recommend it since it could damage the weights and cause a major explosion.
2) replace the weights, with new non-magnetized ones.
3) leave the aluminum foil in place indefinitely. The magnetized weights may interfere with the likes of walkie-talkies, but if this doesn't matter to you, then the barrier will be fine.
Change your plugs sounds silly but do it you may be amazed. My 05 was doing that and it was indeed the plugs.
low slung
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2005
- Messages
- 1,419
Same problems four years ago and the cause was the plugs along with a high amount of water in the gas(condensation 
)
)
Ski-Dog
Expert
I had this issue on a Warrior I had years ago. What the problem was one of the vent tubes from the CV carbs moved and was near the clutch. Every time you got above about 1/4 throttle the symptoms you describe occurred. What was happening was that windage from the clutch was causing backpressure in the tube creating issues for the CV's. Put the tube in its proper place and all was well. It was a real head scratcher for a bit.
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2004
- Messages
- 7,693
- Location
- sudbury on
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2016 apex xtx
2011 apex xtx
2009 phaser rtx/x
1997 et410t/r
1988 vk 540
just found what probably was my problem. heated visor wire shorted out the kill switch under the bar pad where dealer wired it. must have happened when i swapped bar risers. andi didn't notice it untill my brother found it tonight. makes me glad we could not find the clutch alignment tool for his sled.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Always run the electric face shield B+ wire directly to the battery and put a fuse on at the battery. You would not believe how many times electric face shield wiring has caused us problems.
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2004
- Messages
- 7,693
- Location
- sudbury on
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2016 apex xtx
2011 apex xtx
2009 phaser rtx/x
1997 et410t/r
1988 vk 540
paid the dealetr when it was new so i would not have problems with extended warenty at the time. off warenty now so all problems are now mine to fix. and cause..............
Theblackbullet
Veteran
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. So the latest on my situation hasn't really changed. A little update though, when it was in the shop about a week ago, the carbs were cleaned, 1 plugged jet that is good now, and 4 new plugs. Betheviper sold me an OEM can and I should have that on tuesday. If the back pressure on the engine turns out NOT to be the problem I'm going to really start digging into the electrical side. That has been my guess all a long. But the guys that do my work have said it all checks out fine.
Theblackbullet
Veteran
Len Todd- I see you are from Baldwin.... I am headed to Wolf Lake on the 21st. I'll shoot you a PM and if you don't mind maybe you can give me the inside scoop on the area. I've never been out that way.
Theblackbullet
Veteran
PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!!
At least for now. I got the OEM exhaust on tuesday, swapped it out and just like that no popping or back firing. I havent had a chance to really take it out and run it but that will happen tomorrow. I dont imagine that anything will change. Before it would idle rough and back fire everytime I let off the throttle , I did this in the shop and nothing but good results. Thanks for the help fellas
At least for now. I got the OEM exhaust on tuesday, swapped it out and just like that no popping or back firing. I havent had a chance to really take it out and run it but that will happen tomorrow. I dont imagine that anything will change. Before it would idle rough and back fire everytime I let off the throttle , I did this in the shop and nothing but good results. Thanks for the help fellas
