Skid shock removal?

[bleedyamaha]

I need to take both shocks out of skid to be revalved to my liking. Is there anything to make this removal easier without dropping out the skid ? I looked under there and it doesnt look to fun. Ltx Se 2014

 

[TJ-R]

Bleedy,
It is real easy to drop the skid out and way easier than fighting it from under the sled. I tried that the first time and have had the skid out at least 4 times.
You might find a past post on here explaining how to do it, but in short, and if I can recall because its been a while since I was turning wrenches on the sled;

1. Loosen the front and rear shaft bolts, leave them in there for now.
2. you lean it over on its side and put something under the rear bumper to get the track off the ground.
3. Take the rear bolts out and the front one. there are washers on the inside of the tunnel between the tunnel and the front skid frame. If these bolts fight you at all just swing the skid out pivoting on the front bolt and lift the rear of skid to change angle of front and let bolts free.

It is a lot easier than it sounds and takes all of 5 minutes. Going back in is similar and the lifting part is more critical, especially if trying to reinstall alone.

Uht oh, I just noticed you have an LTX, this might be very similar to the XTX procedure, a call to HyGear ought to get you the answer as the are the ones who told me how much easier it was to just remove it.

Good Luck,

TJ

 

[Studroes144]

I need to take both shocks out of skid to be revalved to my liking. Is there anything to make this removal easier without dropping out the skid ? I looked under there and it doesnt look to fun. Ltx Se 2014

I've had the shocks out of my ltx twice now, both times I left the skid right in place. The rear shock is simple, just take a picture first to make sure it all goes back together right. On the front shock it takes about 1/2"-1" of compressing the shock to get it in place. Put the upper mounting bolt in place first then I've found it's simple on the bottom bolt (this bolt connects both side rails and has spacers) to just leave the shock fully extended and put the bolt through at a slight angle so that you can get it in the bottom eye of the shock, once the bolt is all the way through the shock it gives you enough leverage to just push the bolt straight so it'll easily catch the hole on the other rail all while compression the shock a bit to give it it's preload, once you got the bolt lined up with the hole on the rail just give it a tap and you're there.

 

[allyammies]

I also found it easier to pull the skid out. Plus you can inspect for cracks and relube everything easier.

 

[SnoNinja]

Bleedy,
It is real easy to drop the skid out and way easier than fighting it from under the sled. I tried that the first time and have had the skid out at least 4 times.
You might find a past post on here explaining how to do it, but in short, and if I can recall because its been a while since I was turning wrenches on the sled;

1. Loosen the front and rear shaft bolts, leave them in there for now.
2. you lean it over on its side and put something under the rear bumper to get the track off the ground.
3. Take the rear bolts out and the front one. there are washers on the inside of the tunnel between the tunnel and the front skid frame. If these bolts fight you at all just swing the skid out pivoting on the front bolt and lift the rear of skid to change angle of front and let bolts free.

It is a lot easier than it sounds and takes all of 5 minutes. Going back in is similar and the lifting part is more critical, especially if trying to reinstall alone.

Uht oh, I just noticed you have an LTX, this might be very similar to the XTX procedure, a call to HyGear ought to get you the answer as the are the ones who told me how much easier it was to just remove it.

Good Luck,

TJ

Yanking the skid out is relatively easy compared to previous Yams. Once the track and back arm bolts (in the tunnel) are loose, get the sled on its side supported so that the track is off the ground. I take the torsion springs off so that the rear collapses to give you more room. Swing the track out to the side and slip the sliding front off the rod, and wiggle it out. Install is the reverse. With the track swung out, you've got room to get the floating arm on the cross rods and then swing the suspension into the tunnel and install he bolts.

If you have a way to suspend the rear of the sled, you can do it that way as well, but its a little harder to muscle the suspension up onto the cross rod in the front.

 

[Yamadog]

I have done it both ways several times. to remove the shocks I would leave it in just my 2cents. If you do remove it putting it back together is easy if you put the front bolts in then use 2 ratchet straps on the rear arms to compress them into place and line them up with the bolt holes.

 

[SnoNinja]

I have done it both ways several times. to remove the shocks I would leave it in just my 2cents. If you do remove it putting it back together is easy if you put the front bolts in then use 2 ratchet straps on the rear arms to compress them into place and line them up with the bolt holes.

This question is on an LTX. Different than the XTX as the front arm is floating and doesn't have to be bolted in. Removing the torsion spring retainers at the rails allows rear arm to be collapsed as necessary to line rear mount holes up.

 

[Studroes144]

This question is on an LTX. Different than the XTX as the front arm is floating and doesn't have to be bolted in. Removing the torsion spring retainers at the rails allows rear arm to be collapsed as necessary to line rear mount holes up.

Rtx and ltx skids go in and out easier than the uncoupled xtx skid like you stated since the front arm is fastened solid, if I remember right there's only 2 bolts that need to be removed to drop the skid on the slide action setup. Bolts/mounting points in attached pic. As always, loosen up track and drop down the torsion springs to make the job easier.

 

[shagman]

Rtx and ltx skids go in and out easier than the uncoupled xtx skid like you stated since the front arm is fastened solid, if I remember right there's only 2 bolts that need to be removed to drop the skid on the slide action setup. Bolts/mounting points in attached pic. As always, loosen up track and drop down the torsion springs to make the job easier.

It takes me longer to get my tools ready than to pull my skid in my xtx. It takes about 10 minutes and it on the bench. Easiest one I have ever worked on.

 

[Yamadog]

This question is on an LTX. Different than the XTX as the front arm is floating and doesn't have to be bolted in. Removing the torsion spring retainers at the rails allows rear arm to be collapsed as necessary to line rear mount holes up.

I have done several LTX's and the worst part is getting the rear bolts lined up

 

[bleedyamaha]

Thanks everyone for your posts. I left the skid in and it took me a little under a half hour. I think I could do it again in 10 minutes now that I see how it works

 

[SnoNinja]

I have done several LTX's and the worst part is getting the rear bolts lined up

X2 if you don't remove the retainers at the torsions. I just unbolt the torsion retainers from the rails and lay them aside. With the spring tension off, it is simple to move the rear arm around to the desired location so that the bolt holes line up.

 

[dburrowes]

Anyone know of the front bolt location is in the forward hole or the rear as on the picture.

 

[capn37]

Would the RTX/LTX be the same as this video?

 

[Schmecman]

Yes it is the same on my 15 ltx