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Starter motor, or starter gear shot?

Trim the plastic first.
Ok thanks. What about the fuel pump issue I was having? With the longer vacuum hose putting gas out of it, when unplugged from the carb? I am 98% sure, that the fuel pump is what is flooding the engine out. As when I put in the brand new needles valves, I tweaked the floats just a tad, so they close sooner. So that is why I do not think the carb is leaking. I am going to try to dismantle the fuel pump, and clean it. If that does not work, I guess I will be buying a new one. When does putting money in to these 4 strokes end? LOL
 

Ok thanks. What about the fuel pump issue I was having? With the longer vacuum hose putting gas out of it, when unplugged from the carb? I am 98% sure, that the fuel pump is what is flooding the engine out. As when I put in the brand new needles valves, I tweaked the floats just a tad, so they close sooner. So that is why I do not think the carb is leaking. I am going to try to dismantle the fuel pump, and clean it. If that does not work, I guess I will be buying a new one. When does putting money in to these 4 strokes end? LOL

You should be able to simply rebuild the pump I would think. Then there's some type of vacuum tester (Metallicat has one I think) that tests the pump.
 
You should be able to simply rebuild the pump I would think. Then there's some type of vacuum tester (Metallicat has one I think) that tests the pump.
Ok thanks. Do you think that is what is causing to go get gas in the motor oil? As those pictures is of the vacuum pump hoses. And they should be dry, and not have gas in them, right? Thanks.
 
Ok thanks. Do you think that is what is causing to go get gas in the motor oil? As those pictures is of the vacuum pump hoses. And they should be dry, and not have gas in them, right? Thanks.

Others will chime in I'm sure but how else could raw gas get into the oil? I've never looked....where do the vacuum lines originate on the motor?
The times I've pulled my vac hoses off, yes they were completely dry. I can't see a reason for gas being in there other than a faulty pump.

BTW - IMO you should set the floats where they should be, not to your own personal spec (trying to say it nicely!) :)
 
Others will chime in I'm sure but how else could raw gas get into the oil? I've never looked....where do the vacuum lines originate on the motor?
The times I've pulled my vac hoses off, yes they were completely dry. I can't see a reason for gas being in there other than a faulty pump.

BTW - IMO you should set the floats where they should be, not to your own personal spec (trying to say it nicely!) :)
And that is what I thought about the fuel pump. As one on the vac hoses has gas coming out of it, when you pull it off, so I is pumping a little extra gas into the carb. Making it flutter on idle when you start it, as it is to rich/flooded. Btw, these are the old floats that I have in the carbs as of right now. I have 3 brand new ones on the way, so I will be putting those in when I get them, and the whole carbs will be back to stock. From what every one said though, all the floats do is adjust the fuel level in the bowls. It would not make it leaner, or more rich, just adjust the fuel height in the bowls, am I right? I am looking forward on getting the 3 new floats, just so I can put them in, and it will be at the stock setting. When I do that, I am leaving the carbs alone, lol. I have had them off 10 times so far, I kid you not. The carbs see me coming with screw drivers, and wrenches, and I can just hear them saying, This guy again.
 
And that is what I thought about the fuel pump. As one on the vac hoses has gas coming out of it, when you pull it off, so I is pumping a little extra gas into the carb. Making it flutter on idle when you start it, as it is to rich/flooded. Btw, these are the old floats that I have in the carbs as of right now. I have 3 brand new ones on the way, so I will be putting those in when I get them, and the whole carbs will be back to stock. From what every one said though, all the floats do is adjust the fuel level in the bowls. It would not make it leaner, or more rich, just adjust the fuel height in the bowls, am I right? I am looking forward on getting the 3 new floats, just so I can put them in, and it will be at the stock setting. When I do that, I am leaving the carbs alone, lol. I have had them off 10 times so far, I kid you not. The carbs see me coming with screw drivers, and wrenches, and I can just hear them saying, This guy again.

I don't think there should be any gas coming out of the vac lines on the pump. Where do the lines originate on the motor?

Float height has nothing to do with lean/rich of the engine. That's all in the jetting. leave the jets alone!

Somebody did tell be to adjust the air/fuel screws on the underside of the carbs. They might be capped off. Yamaha adjusts the carbs at the factor to get the lowest emissions possible on each cylinder. I don't remember how many turn out from full seat....2? I'll check around unless somebody comes back with the answer.

Hopefully your needle seats aren't bad.

Buy a used pump from barnofparts.com? You need to get that pump off!!!!
 
I don't think there should be any gas coming out of the vac lines on the pump. Where do the lines originate on the motor?

Float height has nothing to do with lean/rich of the engine. That's all in the jetting. leave the jets alone!

Somebody did tell be to adjust the air/fuel screws on the underside of the carbs. They might be capped off. Yamaha adjusts the carbs at the factor to get the lowest emissions possible on each cylinder. I don't remember how many turn out from full seat....2? I'll check around unless somebody comes back with the answer.

Hopefully your needle seats aren't bad.

Buy a used pump from barnofparts.com? You need to get that pump off!!!!
Ok, good to know. I will be leaving the jetting stock, as it does run good. As for the air/ fuel screws, I would like to know what you find out on this. I will be getting a new fuel pump ordered. I am going to take it off, take it apart, but I doubt that will do any thing, haha. Thanks, I will look forward to what you find out. What do the air and Fuel screws do? Adjust how rich or lean, by small amounts? Thanks again
 
Ok, good to know. I will be leaving the jetting stock, as it does run good. As for the air/ fuel screws, I would like to know what you find out on this. I will be getting a new fuel pump ordered. I am going to take it off, take it apart, but I doubt that will do any thing, haha. Thanks, I will look forward to what you find out. What do the air and Fuel screws do? Adjust how rich or lean, by small amounts? Thanks again

There is ONE screw on the underside of the carbs. It's either an air screw or a fuel screw...I don't recall which one it is. It's a slight/small adjustment. It will only affect your idle and lowest end RPM's. I will try to find out what the setting is.

Don't bother taking the pump apart IMO unless you just want to look. I'm checking to see if there's a rebuild kit for it. Why buy a new pump if it can be rebuilt?

You and that sled are melding into one being!! LOL!!!
 
Ok, good to know. I will be leaving the jetting stock, as it does run good. As for the air/ fuel screws, I would like to know what you find out on this. I will be getting a new fuel pump ordered. I am going to take it off, take it apart, but I doubt that will do any thing, haha. Thanks, I will look forward to what you find out. What do the air and Fuel screws do? Adjust how rich or lean, by small amounts? Thanks again
1st. The screw in question is for fine tuning the pilot jet. Idle-1/4 throttle. Generally it's not messed with unless an intake or exhaust or both, mods are done & jetting alone can't solve an off idle bog or stumble.

2nd, just so everyone knows, the screw on a 4-stroke is a FUEL screw. It will be on the bottom of the carbs as stated. In will lean it (cut fuel off) out will richen.

3rd, on a 2-stroke this screw will be on the side of the carb, usually below the idle screw, and it's an AIR screw. In will richen (cut air off) out will lean.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
 
1st. The screw in question is for fine tuning the pilot jet. Idle-1/4 throttle. Generally it's not messed with unless an intake or exhaust or both, mods are done & jetting alone can't solve an off idle bog or stumble.

2nd, just so everyone knows, the screw on a 4-stroke is a FUEL screw. It will be on the bottom of the carbs as stated. In will lean it (cut fuel off) out will richen.

3rd, on a 2-stroke this screw will be on the side of the carb, usually below the idle screw, and it's an AIR screw. In will richen (cut air off) out will lean.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

I'm almost afraid to disagree with you but here goes......Yamaha sets the FUEL screw to minimize emissions...doesn't matter how it idles or anything. It's for emissions. I adjusted mine and the idle did get smoother. Not an OH WOW amount, but noticeable. Other people not on this site have done same and noticed the difference. You will find the screw settings being all over the place. Ever wonder why they are capped off...sometimes?
 
Nothing to disagree about. I said it's generally not messed with, but never said it shouldn't be.

We're all good man!!!

It's a fine tuning device for the pilot. If you got a cleaner idle by messing with it, I believe you 110%. I know Yamaha jets these engines very lean, especially at idle to appease uncle Sam & the EPA nazis.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
 
Nothing to disagree about. I said it's generally not messed with, but never said it shouldn't be.

We're all good man!!!

It's a fine tuning device for the pilot. If you got a cleaner idle by messing with it, I believe you 110%. I know Yamaha jets these engines very lean, especially at idle to appease uncle Sam & the EPA nazis.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

All good here! I've read countless people trying to go one size richer on the pilots only to come back to stock. Harder starting was the problem it caused...if memory serves.
 
All good here! I've read countless people trying to go one size richer on the pilots only to come back to stock. Harder starting was the problem it caused...if memory serves.
Same here. My 1st 4-stroke was an RS Nytro. Never had an issue starting it or idling. I read about jetting it up, but didn't see the need.

Same goes for the carbed Vector I picked up last winter for my kid. Starts & idles just fine.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
 
Ok, good to know. I will be leaving the jetting stock, as it does run good. As for the air/ fuel screws, I would like to know what you find out on this. I will be getting a new fuel pump ordered. I am going to take it off, take it apart, but I doubt that will do any thing, haha. Thanks, I will look forward to what you find out. What do the air and Fuel screws do? Adjust how rich or lean, by small amounts? Thanks again

I just found out that rebuild kits for the pumps are not offered...at least through Yamaha. Buy a good, low miles used one!
 
I just found out that rebuild kits for the pumps are not offered...at least through Yamaha. Buy a good, low miles used one!
Thanks, for all the info. I will be getting the new fuel pump soon. I did take my sled out today, as I wanted to test the starter, and starter relay. Everything held up. Starts great now. When I got done with riding today, I took the vac hoses off of the carb, so it will not fill with gas over night. Today when riding, I only shut it off, once or twice, for short periods of time. About 5 mins of it being shut off. This is the only ride I will be doing intill I get the fuel pump. Just so you guys know I hit 111 mph on the lake today. My recorded was 117 on my sled. But I will take 111 mph.
 


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