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Turbo upgrade options

Studroes144 said:
dont forget..more fun! lol that's a lie cuz I can go ride a bone stick viper and have just as much fun. But it is neat seeeing things all come together and have the final result of an awesome machine.
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Don't know about that, I sold big venom clutch kit, ulmers intake and stage 4 flashed ecu, basically left stock, just can and header, what a dud!!! You don't know what you have until you bring it back to stock.
 

murdered137 said:
Don't know about that, I sold big venom clutch kit, ulmers intake and stage 4 flashed ecu, basically left stock, just can and header, what a dud!!! You don't know what you have until you bring it back to stock.
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I hear ya, I got a buddy with a stock 7000, always have a blast on it when we trade off but usually ready to get back on something you don't hafta hold it wide open just to keep him in sight lol
 
Yamadog said:
My 15 with all stock motor has stage I mpi with race can. Eco flash stage 4 I think , 4th injector with separate gems , upgraded fuel pump,

About 225 HP at 7.5 #'s on pump gas and 265 @ 10#'s on race/pump mix. AFR is healthy at 10.2 wot but did pop head gasket at 7,5#'s and had to add arp head studs
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Curious why you went with the 4th injector, when Matt at mpi says if you do the pump upgrade, the stock injectors are good too 10 psi.
 
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Anyone know where I can buy an exhaust flange for an mpi turbo?, thinking about making my own 2.5" exhaust.
 
murdered137 said:
Curious why you went with the 4th injector, when Matt at mpi says if you do the pump upgrade, the stock injectors are good too 10 psi.
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Well several reasons.

1. the gems controller can add fuel but not take away from the fuel map. so with larger injectors you are going to run rich at lower throttle because the ecu does not know what injectors you are running just % open.
2. this system was off the 14 xtx which is now a drag sled...(or will be when or if Allen Ulmer ever finishes it.) and in its trail set up was running 13 #'s of boost at 265 hp and at the time we built it, it was cheap and easier to dial in with the 4th injector. The PCV was not yet being used that heavily on these and it was the recommendation of Hauck that rebuilt it after it blew up the first time.
3. when we moved everything over from the 14 to the 15 with stock motor (no shim) I wanted the most hp with lowest boost and the safest for 10.5#'s and up to 13 on over boost (which happens during throttle dump after wot burn) and this was still the best way to go.
 
Oh and after this seasons fiasco with the head gasket and finally getting past the break in miles, getting to run this thing at 10.5#'s is mind boggling!! to say the least. at 7.5 it is a really fun sled at 10.5 it is down right intoxicating. The 14 at 13"'s was good but this has so much more usable power and torque, and with the gearing and clutching changes it truly is a high speed, trail burning machine.

launch through 70 mph is very close but 70 to 128 mph is where it shines. Cruising at 70 and snap the throttle the skis come up 12" and stay there till well over 110. You should see the looks when you pass another sled ( on a wide trail and you have let them know that you are coming - I have a horn on all my sleds!) with the skis up and wave thanks their eyes are the size of saucers.
 
OK, so if I add the quick spooling waste gate, bigger regulated return fuel pump and head studs, but no shim and possibly 2.5 exhaust and stock injectors, what's the max safe boost I can run and is there enough adjustability with the gem's controller.
 
That is a hard question! There is a fine line on the duty cycle of the stock injectors. There is enough adjustability in the Gems to run 7 #'s as long as you pay attention to the AFR #'s. I believe there is many documented posts on here with hurricane and others running at that setup. anything over that I feel you need to pull timing and or add race fuel to slow the burn. Running lean is 1 issue and then pre-detonation is the other to keep in mind.

With stock compression the stock timing and 91 octane your starting the burn too early at wot and will cause a melt down and it did happen on my 14 even at 6 #'s with 3 injectors. but I can tell you that the stock motor no shim at 6 is better than a decompressed motor at 7.5 or 8.

I truly believe my 1st failure was originally a head gasket failure, that I was told was impossible, that led to the notching between cylinders not an AFR problem. and that started when the sled was originally built and Hauck only had it set at 4.5 #'s and it started dropping cylinders from 100 miles on till I blew at about 600.

But still it gets hairy and it has a lot to do with the over boost that I did not know I was getting when I was running digital gauges. now that I have gone back to analog it is very apparent for a second the needle rises before it falls when the throttle is dumped.

sorry if that does not answer the question best I can add.
 
So stick with 6#'s and enjoy?, Any pointers on what to do to make it as efficient as possible on 6#'s
 
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Yamadog said:
Well several reasons.

1. the gems controller can add fuel but not take away from the fuel map. so with larger injectors you are going to run rich at lower throttle because the ecu does not know what injectors you are running just % open.
2. this system was off the 14 xtx which is now a drag sled...(or will be when or if Allen Ulmer ever finishes it.) and in its trail set up was running 13 #'s of boost at 265 hp and at the time we built it, it was cheap and easier to dial in with the 4th injector. The PCV was not yet being used that heavily on these and it was the recommendation of Hauck that rebuilt it after it blew up the first time.
3. when we moved everything over from the 14 to the 15 with stock motor (no shim) I wanted the most hp with lowest boost and the safest for 10.5#'s and up to 13 on over boost (which happens during throttle dump after wot burn) and this was still the best way to go.
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To comment on note 1. Bigger injectors will not work with gems controller as mentioned since it'll be way too rich. So if going to more boost your options would be 4th injector and have to buy an additional gems controller or put in bigger injectors and ditch the gems setup completely and go with a pc5, the pc5 route wile allow for much more fine tuning not only at wot but also for cruising speeds. Afr gauge is needed but I've adjusted my fuel on the pc5 so it's much more efficient at cruising speeds. With a gems controller you aren't going to get the fine tuning capability. Just don't risk a stock engine with too much boost. Famous last words, "it was running awesome!"
 
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