Where to tap in for boost gauge?

[Beerman]

Hi beerman,i spoke to EVO today about there failsafe AEM gauge,you were correct,eventhough it is electric it still uses vacume from a boost line just like you showed. Thanks What gauge holder did you use to hold your gauge on,was it a single pod,and where did you mount it? And route tube to back of gauge,mine will have a cable for A/F to plug into muffler.

I use the OSP gauge mounts, they are off to the side and mount using the bolt in front of the 12v supply on the left and the key on the right. I have boost on the left and AFR on the right. Just like this except mine are obviously finished.

 

[snowbeast]

I use the OSP gauge mounts, they are off to the side and mount using the bolt in front of the 12v supply on the left and the key on the right. I have boost on the left and AFR on the right. Just like this except mine are obviously finished.View attachment 128569

Looks nice,i see some mounted on top of stock pod,which is where I want to mount my failsafe,which is two in one,as you know,and I could run one of your mounts,if somehow I can mount it up top,and run wires and cable for A/F to muffler,down the steering post,i think,as I want to save room on either side where you have yours mounted,for TD 3" GPS dattalogger,with ft per second,it looks trick and is only $298.00

 

[thor452]

I mad a bracket and mounted it to the lake effect riser with a bolt in the threaded hole for ram mount and ran all the wires down the steering post. I was wrong on power I tapped into the wire on the headlights that gets power when the engine starts so the gauge would not come on till engine starts.(I heard this was better for the sensor to not be on without engine running) and with the aftermarket HIDS getting power from a fused direct wire from the battery and only using 1 of the headlight hook ups to tell the HIDS to fire I used the other one for power to the Failsafe dual gauge. I like it because it is right in your face so you can keep an eye on it.

 

[snowbeast]

I mad a bracket and mounted it to the lake effect riser with a bolt in the threaded hole for ram mount and ran all the wires down the steering post. I was wrong on power I tapped into the wire on the headlights that gets power when the engine starts so the gauge would not come on till engine starts.(I heard this was better for the sensor to not be on without engine running) and with the aftermarket HIDS getting power from a fused direct wire from the battery and only using 1 of the headlight hook ups to tell the HIDS to fire I used the other one for power to the Failsafe dual gauge. I like it because it is right in your face so you can keep an eye on it.

Thanks thor,can you post a pic or two,i would like to see the lights to.

 

[thor452]

sled is in summer storage. I will see her through out the summer and will take some pics when I do.

 

[snowbeast]

sled is in summer storage. I will see her through out the summer and will take some pics when I do.

Awsome. thanks pete

 

[snowbeast]

I use the OSP gauge mounts, they are off to the side and mount using the bolt in front of the 12v supply on the left and the key on the right. I have boost on the left and AFR on the right. Just like this except mine are obviously finished.View attachment 128569

Ya,sense mine will be both,i think the right side would work for me to. So what has to be unhooked any time you need to remove hood,was the power source used from hood supply,and I assume,to remove the hood when you have boost hose hooked up to gauge and A/F cable to hook onto muffler,there must be some thought to figure out best way to route these two problem pieces to unhook,in order to remove hood.

 

[Beerman]

Ya,sense mine will be both,i think the right side would work for me to. So what has to be unhooked any time you need to remove hood,was the power source used from hood supply,and I assume,to remove the hood when you have boost hose hooked up to gauge and A/F cable to hook onto muffler,there must be some thought to figure out best way to route these two problem pieces to unhook,in order to remove hood.

The AEM harnesses I got each came with a weather-pac type connector, so I have the one for the boost gauge and the AFR right next to the main harness for the hood, so instead of one connector I have to disconnect all 3 when removing the hood but it only takes an extra couple seconds. I can't tell from the pic of the Failsafe gauge, but it looks like the vacuum line plugs in directly to the gauge back? If that's the case you'll want to find a quick disconnect of some kind for the vacuum line, Evo has one on their site.

 

[snowbeast]

The AEM harnesses I got each came with a weather-pac type connector, so I have the one for the boost gauge and the AFR right next to the main harness for the hood, so instead of one connector I have to disconnect all 3 when removing the hood but it only takes an extra couple seconds. I can't tell from the pic of the Failsafe gauge, but it looks like the vacuum line plugs in directly to the gauge back? If that's the case you'll want to find a quick disconnect of some kind for the vacuum line, Evo has one on their site.

Thanks so much,can I ask for your help this summer once I buy it?

 

[Beerman]

Thanks so much,can I ask for your help this summer once I buy it?

Happy to if I can.

 

[snowbeast]

Happy to if I can.

Yamaha today,finally just got all there RTX,LTX sleds listedin there fish,can you imagine if I had waited till now to rebuild my sled!

 

[waldo1]

if u get the TD flasher with data logger for multi pac tune package - it has about a dozen things or more u can monitor with blu tooth from your iphone or ipad - boost is one of those things, rpm is in real time so much more accurate than stock gage, mph is another thats real slow to react on the stock gage - u can have 4 screens open or 2 or 1 - best cheapest gage ever... i valcrow mine right over the stock gage to verify quick reads like boost, to verify the program change. its pretty cool - and no gages and wires and crap hanging from the sled... it dosent have O2 tho - with bens tunes - dont need it.

 

[**sj**]

With his wideband o2 you get afr on your device also

 

[ROCKERDAN]

if u get the TD flasher with data logger for multi pac tune package - it has about a dozen things or more u can monitor with blu tooth from your iphone or ipad - boost is one of those things, rpm is in real time so much more accurate than stock gage, mph is another thats real slow to react on the stock gage - u can have 4 screens open or 2 or 1 - best cheapest gage ever... i valcrow mine right over the stock gage to verify quick reads like boost, to verify the program change. its pretty cool - and no gages and wires and crap hanging from the sled... it dosent have O2 tho - with bens tunes - dont need it.

You brought up a thread from last yr....much of these new live data options are more recent.

 

[MrSled]

With his wideband o2 you get afr on your device also

That must be another module that plugs into the O2 Bung and then some how taps into the Flasher?