sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
Got my sled apart and I'm trying to find measurements for where to put the avid drivers. Does anyone know what they are or where I can find them? Thanks
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
Before you remove the stock drivers mark the point on the drive axle that is midway between the two inside drivers. Use a scribe to make the mark as markers are apt to be erased when the pushing the drivers on/off.
From this scribe line you can then center the new drivers. I set mine to be 9-inches apart (same as the track windows) but someone else suggested 8-7/8 inches. The Wahl Bros. drivers I installed are 3-inches wide at the hub. This made my setting 3-inches either side of the scribe line.
From this scribe line you can then center the new drivers. I set mine to be 9-inches apart (same as the track windows) but someone else suggested 8-7/8 inches. The Wahl Bros. drivers I installed are 3-inches wide at the hub. This made my setting 3-inches either side of the scribe line.
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
That sounds easy enough. Thanks alot! I will give it a try.
Also, which way do I push the stock drivers off? I have never switched a track before, or switched drivers. The chain case side of the drive shaft seems to have some sort of seal on the shaft which I dont know if I should take it off. And the clutch side as the bearing and bearing holder still on it. Which side better to take apart?
Also, which way do I push the stock drivers off? I have never switched a track before, or switched drivers. The chain case side of the drive shaft seems to have some sort of seal on the shaft which I dont know if I should take it off. And the clutch side as the bearing and bearing holder still on it. Which side better to take apart?
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
You'll probably have to take everything off the shaft to push the drivers on from both sides - and you'll need a substantial press. I took my disassembled drive shaft to a local shop - cost $40 to push the old drivers off and the new drivers on.
The drive side piece comes off easily. When you reinstall it smear a little grease on the o-ring in the ID. If you have more than 2500-miles on your sled you might consider replacing the clutch side bearing while you have it apart (save the setscrews and plastic piece on the old bearing). The bearing on my sled was hard to turn at 4600-miles. The bearing cost about $35.
The drive side piece comes off easily. When you reinstall it smear a little grease on the o-ring in the ID. If you have more than 2500-miles on your sled you might consider replacing the clutch side bearing while you have it apart (save the setscrews and plastic piece on the old bearing). The bearing on my sled was hard to turn at 4600-miles. The bearing cost about $35.
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
Thanks again, I'll probably strip it all off in the morning. There is a local small engines shop in town that has a big press that I'm gonna try to wreck this stuff on...it should do a good job. I need to get this done quickly before I forget how to put this thing back together!

2008FxNytro
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arteeex said:You'll probably have to take everything off the shaft to push the drivers on from both sides - and you'll need a substantial press. I took my disassembled drive shaft to a local shop - cost $40 to push the old drivers off and the new drivers on.
The drive side piece comes off easily. When you reinstall it smear a little grease on the o-ring in the ID. If you have more than 2500-miles on your sled you might consider replacing the clutch side bearing while you have it apart (save the setscrews and plastic piece on the old bearing). The bearing on my sled was hard to turn at 4600-miles. The bearing cost about $35.
Little off topic but how about the chain side bearing?? Anyone replace theirs yet? I did clutch side but not chain side.
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
The chain side bearing is in a happy environment out of the elements and on my sled was still running smoothly. However, the cost of a new bearing for the case side may be less than the hassle factor of tearing into it later. And, I suspect if chain case bearing went bad you'd never know it until ten other bits got tore up too.
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