x2thez
Expert
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2005
- Messages
- 215
- Reaction score
- 8
- Points
- 868
- Location
- Buffalo, NY
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Yamaha Viper LTX
2009 Yamaha Vector LTX
1987 Yamaha Bravo
kcusscam
Extreme
BigDog05
VIP Member
I have run Mobil 1 for the past 3 years. Seems fine, however I decided to add zddp this last oil change.
Check this post out. Page 2 starts discussion of zddp
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... light=zddp
Check this post out. Page 2 starts discussion of zddp
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... light=zddp
sparks49
Extreme
This will be my second season running Mobil 1 in both sleds, I've had absolutely no problems, and besides, you can't beat the price at Wally World.
Vector Julie
Extreme
I am currently using 0-30 Mobil1 in both a 06 and 09 Vector. I do however add zddp.
If you were to contact MOBIL they would tell you it is not ment to be used in a 4-stroke snowmobile as packaged.
If you were to contact MOBIL they would tell you it is not ment to be used in a 4-stroke snowmobile as packaged.
shanksyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Guru
The zinc and phosphurous levels have been reduced significantly in automotive oils to pass EPA. From what I have read this is not good in high performance motors. That is why people are putting in the zddp.. I know lots of guys run mobil 1 and have for several seasons in their apex and RX-1 so you will have no problem with just the mobil 1. If you want to add the zddp, I think that is a good idea but you won't hurt anything to run just the mobil1 that you have..
For me, when it comes to oil and filters, money is no object. I usually run amsoil at $11/qt. Especially since its made for these machines.
For me, when it comes to oil and filters, money is no object. I usually run amsoil at $11/qt. Especially since its made for these machines.
x2thez
Expert
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2005
- Messages
- 215
- Reaction score
- 8
- Points
- 868
- Location
- Buffalo, NY
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Yamaha Viper LTX
2009 Yamaha Vector LTX
1987 Yamaha Bravo
my question isnt really about the mobil 1, its about the energy conserving? Since the manual specifically says to not use it. Maybe I will just use amsoil ow 40.
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2005
- Messages
- 7,496
- Reaction score
- 3,609
- Points
- 2,003
- Location
- Huntsville Ontario & Niagara NY
- Country
- Other
- Snowmobile
- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
grizztracks
Tech Advisor
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
- Messages
- 3,116
- Reaction score
- 968
- Points
- 1,753
- Location
- Scio, NY
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- FX Nytro RTX, RS Vector, SR Viper RTX SE
The starter has a clutch that is located in the stator side of the engine. ATV use the same setup but I'm not sure about motorcycles. The clutch (#6) is a roller bearing assembly that engages rollers on the hub of the starter gear (#8). the clutch is directional and is a metal to metal engagement. The starter doesn't have anything special (no bendix to move a gear forward for engagement like in cars). It is a basic DC motor setup.
I'm not sure if automotive oil is the best. I think it goes back to the lack of the proper additives (zinc, phosphorus) which protect metal to metal contact points like the starter clutch and cam shaft)
Because there are to many unknowns I'm sticking with Yamalube. At $8 a quart for semi synthetic compared to mobile 1 (plus an additive) your not saving much.
I'm not sure if automotive oil is the best. I think it goes back to the lack of the proper additives (zinc, phosphorus) which protect metal to metal contact points like the starter clutch and cam shaft)
Because there are to many unknowns I'm sticking with Yamalube. At $8 a quart for semi synthetic compared to mobile 1 (plus an additive) your not saving much.
copo427ss
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
it is a one way roller bearing clutch. like grizz says metal to metal. no need to worry about friction modifiers. the only thing that i see wrong with car oil is that its not formulated to run the extreme high rpms our motors turn at. it is cheaper to run car oil, but i just dont feel it holds up as well as oil designed for motorcycles ect. that and the lower zinc content. i know that amsoil does not cut back on the zinc and phos for thier motorcycle/small engine blends, as well as a few other brands.
speedjunky
Extreme
Ive been running it in my 06 APEX since day 1. 6000 miles no problem. 05 RX1 2300 miles no problems.
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2005
- Messages
- 7,496
- Reaction score
- 3,609
- Points
- 2,003
- Location
- Huntsville Ontario & Niagara NY
- Country
- Other
- Snowmobile
- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
this is excactly what i was saying.....where the starter engages underneath CASE 1 in diagram....there is very very little OIL that sits in that case. the magneto is underneath there and this is why little oil actually is in contact with the starter. So no worries about "WET CLUTCH in the starter. Pics below of when i built my motor .
the ONLY oils that have reduced levels of Zinc and phos(ZDDP) are automotive oils in the 20 and 30 weights as their second number.
if you add ZDDP additive to the mobile 1 auto oil that is fine. or use a 40 weight which just about ALL brands have higher zinc in the 40 wieght.
or use REDLINE 5w20.....it gives you the lighter viscosity for more HP and lots of zinc.
its all your own choice...still to this day no oil has causes any issues on our sleds that i have seen ever.
Dan
the ONLY oils that have reduced levels of Zinc and phos(ZDDP) are automotive oils in the 20 and 30 weights as their second number.
if you add ZDDP additive to the mobile 1 auto oil that is fine. or use a 40 weight which just about ALL brands have higher zinc in the 40 wieght.
or use REDLINE 5w20.....it gives you the lighter viscosity for more HP and lots of zinc.
its all your own choice...still to this day no oil has causes any issues on our sleds that i have seen ever.
Dan
