I am working on my skid getting it ready for the season. I was pulling all the axel and support shafts out, cleaning them and bushings and was regreasing everything for assembly and noticed grease coming back out the grease zirks.(no idea if that is how you spell it!) On further inspection I realized there was no ball bearing inside any of the zirks, is this normal for Yamaha? Zirks are welded on, so changing them ain't happening. Can anyone shed some light on this for me, it's the first time I seen it?
Budweiser
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
They are all like that. Mine are always leaking grease...
Trucker
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I think their intention on that is to let it "breath" help evaperate the water. On how well it works is debatable.
Irv
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779cookies said:
Stupid set-up imo, all my other sleds had the ball in the end of the zerk and I never had any issues.
If they were easy to change I would have changed all mine when I had my skid out.
greenmntpass
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Comin theme for the mono. With the new mono back in '06 guys were noticing the grease leaking as you did. Easy fix that lasts is JB weld around the base of the fitting. Did this in late '06 when I pulled the skid and painted it. Easy to apply, sets up well and after painting looks original. Shame on Yamaha for this one no excuse!
Snowmobileaddict
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
This is one issue that Yamaha can't seem to get right. They give you a zerk fitting that is't completely welded to the tube and no spring/check ball. 
I ground off the factory grease nipples and welded 1/4-28 nuts at each grease point before I had my skid powdercoated this March. Then I installed replaceable threaded zerks with a spring and ball check. I then added some rubber zerk caps that provide even more protection.
CAPS
I ground off the factory grease nipples and welded 1/4-28 nuts at each grease point before I had my skid powdercoated this March. Then I installed replaceable threaded zerks with a spring and ball check. I then added some rubber zerk caps that provide even more protection.
CAPS
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
greenmntpass said:
I don't believe he is talking about grease leaking out around the base of the zerk but rather grease leaking back out the fill hole after you have removed the grease gun.
Nice job on yours Addict, that's the way Yamaha should have done them!
Snowmobileaddict
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Not putting a full weld all the way around the base of the zerk from the factory is the other half of the problem with the fittings and is just plain mental.
At some point when you try to apply grease to that factory zerk, any pressure that you build with the gun will just spooge grease out the base where there is no weld. When that happens you'll end up with a huge blob of grease that squirted out the side just to get a tiny amount into the bearing surfaces within the pivot tube.
You'll read more than once on this board that JB welding the base of the factory zerk will fix this half of the problem.
Its disappointing that a machine in its 6th model year, with a MSRP signiifcantly north of $10K requires JB Weld in order to be serviced as intended or at least not make a big 'ole greasy mess.
At some point when you try to apply grease to that factory zerk, any pressure that you build with the gun will just spooge grease out the base where there is no weld. When that happens you'll end up with a huge blob of grease that squirted out the side just to get a tiny amount into the bearing surfaces within the pivot tube.
You'll read more than once on this board that JB welding the base of the factory zerk will fix this half of the problem.
Its disappointing that a machine in its 6th model year, with a MSRP signiifcantly north of $10K requires JB Weld in order to be serviced as intended or at least not make a big 'ole greasy mess.
lawmanbsi
Expert
I never even checked mine before sending it to half baked. I just got it back today. I was trying to figure out how they could have done this and why. I remember taking the skid apart and wondering how the water had gotten in the middle of the shaft. Mystery solved.
I wonder if I can drill and tap the zerk so I can put in new zerks. Then JB weld the base. That way I don't have to mess up my freshly coated parts. Anybody willing to test this idea on some spare parts be my guest. I don't have anything to test this on first.
I wonder if I can drill and tap the zerk so I can put in new zerks. Then JB weld the base. That way I don't have to mess up my freshly coated parts. Anybody willing to test this idea on some spare parts be my guest. I don't have anything to test this on first.
lawmanbsi
Expert
to small I will have grind and weld.
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Trucker said:
This is a great post and so true!!!!!!!!!
Mike
mr. shide
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yeah having them factory tack welded on is the dumbest thing ever IMO. arctic cat type stuff right there. I had one break off. total joke. i just filled it up with grease and put a small rubber plug in the hole.
Irv
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mr. shide said:
The push in ones that are on my XLT at least have the ball in the end but I have had a few pop out over the years and usually when they do, the hole gets too big to hold the new ones.
I like the welded in ones, just wish they had a ball in the end.
Not sure Yamaha only partially welded them in to allow evaporation, personally I can't see it helping at all as not enough air would be able to get in there to do any good imo?
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It's possible that the heat from welding screws up the ball and or spring.
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
We add grease fittings to 2005 Rx-1s for $80 or we can weld up the old fittings on the newer sleds for $40..
