..SNAKEBIT..
Expert
what are you guys using to cover the tunnel hole?
gauge? etc. ??
gauge? etc. ??
maxdlx
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I used old tunnel from my 97 sx, It was almost too thick and hard to bend. You get a seat yet?
..SNAKEBIT..
Expert
no seat yet,
most likely, will use stock seat this year, remove rear seat plastic and want to mount a skidoo jerry can right up close to the seat ( kind of slid under the seat taper was my thought? )
PS really like the looks of Ski's seat Mountain Mod?
most likely, will use stock seat this year, remove rear seat plastic and want to mount a skidoo jerry can right up close to the seat ( kind of slid under the seat taper was my thought? )
PS really like the looks of Ski's seat Mountain Mod?
evil1
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A guys here in fort saskachtwaan,,alberta canada,,at E&S cycles cuts a cover on a water jet cutter,,comes out real sweet,,If yoou could get some material,,make a template from card board and have someone cut it for ya if your looking for a good finish. I used a pair of snips and cut that rolled edge off. the plate butts up against the tunnel extension edge. I may have a mountain mod seat to sell ya,,if your interested?
Here is a pic of mine. I used .050 that is the same as the existing tunnel. I made one cover that goes from the tunnel extension forward that is pictured then I am in the process of building a second skin that will go from the tank all the way back to cover up any seems and stock holes to make it a clean look. I will post a pic of the second skin tonight once I get it all drilled and mounted. Then I just Have to fasten the two together and sheer the angle on them to match the angle on the tunnel.
evil1
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here is a pic of both skins mocked up. I sheered the angle on them today and will be test fitting them tonight.
now just need to fab up the exhaust and rivet the skins on. Then the seat mount.
The front blank off covering just the hole back to the tunnel extension
The skin covering the whole tunnel to clean up all the seams and factory tailight holes.
With the seat on.
Starting the exhaust project
The front blank off covering just the hole back to the tunnel extension
The skin covering the whole tunnel to clean up all the seams and factory tailight holes.
With the seat on.
Starting the exhaust project
evil1
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heh nice job,,i was considering modifying my tunnel extension,or maybe changing it altogether by buying the new one of the 2010 mtx
skidooboy
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
the tunnel top close out isnt as easy as cutting a rectangle cover piece and riveting in place but, it isnt bad either.
the tunnel is tapered. so it is not a straight rectangle cutting operation. if you measure it correctly, and take a drawing and accurate dimensions to your local fab shop/metal yard, they can cut to your spec pretty easy, without paying big bux.
i cant remeber off the top of my head the measurements, nor the tunnel extension thickness.
but, maybe one of the guys could mic the tunnel extension thickness for you guys. i used that as my thickness so, when you butt the tunnel top closure to the extension it is the same thickness and looks factory. (similar to the pics above but, i didnt recover the tunnel extension.)
cut the lip edge off of the exisiting tunnel or with a hammer and dolly, pound it flat. remove ALL rivets that the new closure will lay on so, the closure will lay flat and not bind or warp. rivet into place with the yamaha ringged rivet (90267-47195) and attatch all mounting hardware after the closure is in place for a nice factory looking finish.
you dont have to put the extension all the way to the bulk head, just enough to cover the opening. you can opt to cover everything up to eliminating the access hole for the header doughnuts but, then you are opening yourself up for a pain later when those need maintainence.
also you dont want to go under the fuel cell as it may cause issues later when you may want to upgrade to a trail tank or turbo.
just food for thought. ski
the tunnel is tapered. so it is not a straight rectangle cutting operation. if you measure it correctly, and take a drawing and accurate dimensions to your local fab shop/metal yard, they can cut to your spec pretty easy, without paying big bux.
i cant remeber off the top of my head the measurements, nor the tunnel extension thickness.
but, maybe one of the guys could mic the tunnel extension thickness for you guys. i used that as my thickness so, when you butt the tunnel top closure to the extension it is the same thickness and looks factory. (similar to the pics above but, i didnt recover the tunnel extension.)
cut the lip edge off of the exisiting tunnel or with a hammer and dolly, pound it flat. remove ALL rivets that the new closure will lay on so, the closure will lay flat and not bind or warp. rivet into place with the yamaha ringged rivet (90267-47195) and attatch all mounting hardware after the closure is in place for a nice factory looking finish.
you dont have to put the extension all the way to the bulk head, just enough to cover the opening. you can opt to cover everything up to eliminating the access hole for the header doughnuts but, then you are opening yourself up for a pain later when those need maintainence.
also you dont want to go under the fuel cell as it may cause issues later when you may want to upgrade to a trail tank or turbo.
just food for thought. ski
The way OFT Racing sees it...
The OEM Nytro tunnel is a bit weak as it is. Cutting the lip off, or pounding the lip down weakens the top surface of the tunnel even further. Unless there is an engineered rivet pattern, a flat plate will not redistribute the stresses within the tunnel correctly, and will displace these stresses to other areas of the tunnel resulting in cracking and/or deformation.
We are currently in the prototype stages of a tunnel block-off plate that will allow you to install over the factory lip, with no cutting or bending of the stock tunnel. It is also fabricated from a thinner sheet of aluminum, but reinforced with beads. The thinner beaded metal is as rigid as a thicker counterpart, while weighing less.
The OEM Nytro tunnel is a bit weak as it is. Cutting the lip off, or pounding the lip down weakens the top surface of the tunnel even further. Unless there is an engineered rivet pattern, a flat plate will not redistribute the stresses within the tunnel correctly, and will displace these stresses to other areas of the tunnel resulting in cracking and/or deformation.
We are currently in the prototype stages of a tunnel block-off plate that will allow you to install over the factory lip, with no cutting or bending of the stock tunnel. It is also fabricated from a thinner sheet of aluminum, but reinforced with beads. The thinner beaded metal is as rigid as a thicker counterpart, while weighing less.
First off I want to say you guys build some sweet stuff and this is yet another top quality product. However, Its not the look I am Looking for. I was going for a bare clean tunnel. You cant tell me that by removing a 1/4 inch lip of .050 aluminum and replacing it with 2 more layers of .050 plus two aluminum exhaust brackets that connect from the angle on the side all the way across will in any way make my tunnel weaker. JMO
This is a poor picture and the design is still in the works but you get the idea of the exhaust bracket.
This is a poor picture and the design is still in the works but you get the idea of the exhaust bracket.
evil1
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sweet but looks like dung with stock seat!,,too late for me the lip is already gone,,but great thinking!!
evil1 said:
There is also a trunk cover in development to go along with this block-off...
evil1
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yeah i think guys should keep an eye on this,,it is a great mod to do,,it certainly took alot of weight of mine and suits me better,,the undertail exhaust almost will dry gloves in my trunk, i'm running mountain mod seat,,or at least keep them nice and warm i've found--added bonus for me riding in cold weather
