Subframe Strengthening Plate (finished)

grizztracks

grizztracks

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Snowmobile
FX Nytro RTX, RS Vector, SR Viper RTX SE
I did a mock up off my strengthening plates for both my 09 and 10 frames. I made them out of aluminum which will be used as a template to cut and bend the steel parts. I'm not sure what gauge steel I'll use yet. I don't want to over do it so maybe 1/16". Any input would be appreciated.
additional images on photobucket: http://s589.photobucket.com/albums/ss33 ... %20gusset/

DSC04250.JPG
 
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That is what i was thinking of doing this summer , That looks very nice u say u may make a few more :Rockon:
 
I think 1/8 is a little to much. I'm attempting to strengthen the rear a-arm tower similar to what Grimm has done with gussets and also add additional strength by extending the plate to the front mounts. This should help prevent the center plate from buckling. If I keep the plating thickness between 1/16 to 1/8" it should add enough strength without being overly bulky. Adding the small plate to the front mount may not be necessary but I think it helps tie things together. I'm going to see what I can find locally for metal and see if I can get one of these done this weekend. I'll post my dimensions and some pictures once I get one installed.
 
How about pouring molten steel into the tubes on the subframe. That should help a little:)

I'm with kinger... what is the disadvantage of making it 1/8 over 1/16. Maybe a few ounces?
 
I manufacture steel floating docks and I use 14 ga 1x2 tubing if I lay it flat I can step on it with the ends supported and bend it in the middle. My whole frame is designed around making it strong but light weight. Your talking thinner yet and not even using a tube (which is stronger then flat) but a piece of bent flat.

yamahaboy701 is correct your talking ounces in weight between 1/8" and what your proposing.

Heck if it was me I would make it 1/4" and add the 1lb and pound the hell out of it! I was giving you the 1/8" reccomendation just because you were worried about weight.

Do what you wish. Its a great idea and something I would do in a heartbeat if I had a nytro. I cant stand riding something and worrying about stuff breaking.

Good luck!
 
x2

I used 1/8 inch steel and it is doubled on one side and also a plate on the bottom. So right now My plate = 3/8 plus the stock plate.
 
The a-arm supports are made of 12 gauge steel (.105"). I've done some searching and there are gusset kits available for atv's which are made out of 11 gauge (.1196"). I don't think I want to make the frame too ridged and I don't see any benefit in going any heavier than 11 gauge. I don't care about the added weight. I'm more concerned about where the energy will be transferred to in the event of a hard hit. I want to increase the subframe's durability but still leave it vulnerable to the "big" hit, if that's possible.

My next decision is what type of steel to use. Most steel gusset kits are made from 4130 alloy which can be welded fairly easy and seems like the best choice. ???
 
i like were you are planning on strenghting the a arm tower,but do you think this is where alot of the bending is happening?
 
Nice design on the support bracket, though I don't think the upper front plate is needed, but it certainly can't hurt. I don't think you should worry about making it too strong. When my subframe bent, the lower A arm also had a slight bend iin it too, so I think the arms would give before anything else will.
 
I'm comparing a bent 09 frame to a new 2010 frame and going on what others have experienced and done to reinforce theirs. Grimm added gussets to the rear a-arm tower and has not experienced any bending since. All the bending force is being transferred from the a-arms into the mounting towers. I believe the majority of the energy is absorbed through the rear mount and that's why the center gusset buckles. My center plate design strengthens the rear tower similar to what Grimm's gussets accomplished, adds additional strength to the lower portion of the frame and should absorb the energy better by transferring some of it higher in the framing. The small front gusset is being added because The design ties the rear mount into the front and I think this is where some of the energy will be transferred.

I'm going with 11 or 12 gauge steel and I'm thinking about using 4130 alloy rather than mild steel. Any thoughts on this?
 
Based on my experience it's seems the sub-frame is prone to bending in torsion. To counter this failure mode more effectively I believe tying the left and right sides together with gusseting in the vertical plane, essentially parallel to the face of the motor, would be beneficial. However, given the many complex bends in the sub-frame and lack of any detail on the expected loads, the best you can do is guess where your gussets will be most effective.
 
I too am thinking of strengthening myself, I work in a fabrication shop in the winter and road construction in the summer and am good friends and riding buddies with the guy that runs the shop so access to the tools shouldn't be a problem. grizz I like your design, should help allot, I may have to borrow your idea. My question is how much work is it to get the subframe out?? I don't really want to be welding on it with it still in the sled. I am going to bounce some ideas off my buddy and see what he thinks, the guy is a freakin genius so I'm sure he will have some opinions of what we can do. Mine is tweaked right now so I'm thinking about the prybar method of straightening it out while the sled is still together then pull it apart and gusset it up so it hopefully doesn't move. Pretty frustrated with Yamaha rite now, love the sled, just needs to be more durable.
 
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