ZX2 install

I finaly got around to installing my zx2 skid into my 03 rx1. I bought the skid used from a freind of mine, he had it in his polaris 700. He bought a new sled and sold the 700 so he pulled the zx2 and put the old skid back in. The zx2 only had about 300 miles on it. I tried to contact AD Boivin for an install kit but couldn't get a hold of them and decided to install it with the yamaha universal instructions. It came with all the parts anyway except for the mounting plates which are prety straight forward to make.
It didn't take long to run into my first problem. with the driver and track combination that I have the rear mounting point ended up right on the bend where the tunnel bends to make the foot boards. With a few members here saying that they had to drop the same mount point a bit for similar reason, I opted to do the same. I decided to remove the stock rear suspension mounts and remount them in the position that the zx2 required. I also removed the front stock mounts and built new ones. I made spacers out of aluminum road signs so that the new brackets were solid to the tunnel with no space between them and the tunnel. The road sign aluminum was the perfect thickness. Once I had the spacers cut and their position marked, I peeled off relective facing (the sticky glue stayed on the aluminum) and stuck them in place. I positoned the mounting plates and drilled the holes required and riveted and bolted them on. I had to shorten the mounting bushings by 3/8" so I turned them down in the laith. To position the front mounts I took 2 peice of flat bar and drilled a 13/32" hole in it 15" from one end and bolted them to the rear mount points, lowered the the sled to the floor and marked out the verticle measurements for my front mounts. Once that was done I made another flat bar and drilled 2 holes 17 7/16" center to center, this was used to keep the exact measurement for the ctc distance between the front mount hole and the rear.
I bolted it to the rear mount and used it to mark the horizontal distance for the front mount hole. I made what ever spacers I needed and then then made the front mount plate fron 1/8" aluminum and riveted it to the tunnel. I installed the skid with no issues. It was a bit of pissing around but I think it will be a much stronger setup than the thin plates that would have come with the install kit. The sled sits very high in the back but I only dropped the mount points by 3/4" so I guess the skid is suposed to do that. I still have the stock sway bar and the front end seems to roll a bit more because of the higher center of gravity so I will have to up grade to a stiffer one. I took it for a good 50 mile ride yesterday and I am very happy with it. There seems to be a bit too much pressure on the skis because I can feel more feedback in the steering which I don't really like, but it steers better than before. I had the pins in the 2/4 position and man would that thing hook up hard and go. I have no idea what the best position to use for them but what I could figure out by watching the skid while rotating the revolver is it puts more/less pressure on the front of the skid which should help with the heavy front end. Is this correct. It seems that the skid work better the harder and faster you hit bumps. It has kind of a stiff ride while going slower. The shocks preloads are set to the softest position. Is there anything that could be done for a bit softer ride. I will play with it more on my next days off. If anyone could please explain to me what the set up positions do it would help me dial it in. Over all I am pleased with it and once I figure out how to properly adjust it and get some more miles on it, I'm sure I will love it. Much better that the proaction

Rear mount spacer



Spacer installed


Rear mount installed


Flat bar spacing tool installed


Turning down the bushings


Finnished product

skid

She looks some sharp nicely done....

A few other questions. You can see in the picture of the sled that my limit strap is loose. Is it suposed to be loose like that. If I tighten it up would that take some pressure off the skis?
Also each shocks look like they have 2 of the adjusting nuts for preload but it looks like only the top one can turn. What does the bottom nut do.

Both rear shocks have adjustment at the bottom 1-7. You have should have a tool that will do the adjustment.

Looks good, nice job Stomper.

Your going to fight that a little its too low in the back. Do you have a picture of your front mount and measurement from the footboard to center of hole?

If we can figure out exactly how its positioned in there I can help with set up. The way you have it now it will act like a jacked up muscle car with a heavy rear rake and the front arm wont do much so you will be putting all the pressure on the skis.

My ZX2 rear mount sits above the running board as low as it can go. I wanted to go underneath but you have to move it like 1.25" down like you have it so you also need to move the front arms down, then come up with the same 1.25' raise in the front to keep the sled on the same plane just lifted 1.25" roughly.

The front mount point is 2.25" from the floor boards to the center. Thats what I had to do is lower the mount points about 1.25". The sled sits extremly high and it looks real goofy when sitting on it. I crawled under the sled and took some measurements today. Directly above the rear mount point there is 1.75" between the tip of the track lug to the tunnel protector (lowest point in tunnel). The tunnel protectors are 1" deep. Now, theoreticly if I remove the tunnel protectors I should be able to move the rear mount point up 2.25" and still have my .5" clearance that is suggested in the manual. Correct? This would put my mount point about 1" above the floor board on the tunnel. Is it a good idea to remove the tunnel protectors, I do not run studs.
I finaly got ahold of someone in the tech department at AD Boivin today and told them of my issues. He suggested reinstalling the stock 1.25" track and stock suspension mounts and just purchasing the RX1 specific mount plates and all my issues would be solved. He said that the ZX2 was designed and tested to be installed with the stock drivers and track and was wondering if the stock drives had been changed with the track. They are a 9 tooth driver which he confirmed were the stock. I would realy like to lower the sled some as it does sit really high but it would be nice to keep the 1.75" track. Either way I look at it, if I want to lower the sled I have to raise the mounting points. I just have to find out what will work best. I want this suspenssion to work in this sled so I will do what it takes.
I have been thinking about doing what AD suggested and leaving my existing track on and see where that gets me. If there isn't enough clearance, see if removing the tunnel protectors woud work and as a last resort change my track.

Your correct and have this figured out. You cannot go taller then a 1.25" track with studs when the zx2 is mounted with the kit from ADB. This leaves the tunnel protectors in but its TIGHT. Works but tight. Also that is with the rear bolt just off the floorboard so you can get a socket on it no higher.

I myself have considered doing what you did, lower the entire skid to gain clearance to run a larger lug track with sno cross studs and still keep the muffler and tunnel in tact. The tradeoff is tippiness. How much more will it be tippy? Not sure. Awhile ago me and another guy were going to design some plates that had mounting holes pre drilled in both locations so we could test it out.

I say ride it and if you just cant get it to turn without ski lift look at tucking it back up in the tunnel like ADB reccomends.

If you like taking measurements there is a universal install guide I posted in here and you basically take a string with weights on it and wrap it around the rear bolt and then all the way around the driveshaft. Then measure the difference of the string to the front bolt it should be less then 1" for optimium geometry of the sled. This is from memory try to find the universal install instructions I posted its a pdf file.

Good luck. Pound that skid it will take it!

First off I want to say thanks for all the help and info, it is greatly appreciated. I am learning more about this skid with every post. Is there any danger in removing the tunnel protector if I still have the recomended clearance from the exhaust and tunnel, again, I do not run studs or plan on running them. I thought I read on here somewhere that guys are removing them to help out with the ice build up in the tunnel. The 1.25" that is being talked about here, is that the lug height or is that the total thickness of the track including the lug and carpet(for lack of better words). My track is 1.75" lug and 2" with the lug and carpet.
I used the universal install guide that you posted and you are correct about the 1" measurement. I measured every measurement several times to make sure they were correct. I have 5/8" from the line to the center of the front mount hole so I believe the skid is installed correctly. Its just installed lower.
Now the tippiness, I haven't realy drove the sled in optimal trail conditions yet because the trails around here haven't been groomed because of lack of snow, so I'm not realy sure if it is tippy or the body is just rolling more. I do know that the body is definatly rolling easier. I"m sure has something to do with the fact that I still have the stock 10mm sway bar installed. The next upgrade will be a 13mm bar. I am sure that will help with the body roll.
I am a bit confused with cranking up the compression on the front ski shocks to raise the front end. Would that not put more pressure on the skis. I would like to take some off.
OH, yes I do plan on pounding the $hit out of it.

Best way to dial in front shocks is to turn them all way one way the ride ir on some test course, then go 100% opposite and do same ride. Then youll know which way to go. You can definiitly remove the protectors and run without them. I wouldn't tuck it up any tighter then the std mount. Mine is NOT tippy. Have fun!

I will try the shock tests. I'm not thinking about tucking it up any higher in the tunnel than the standard manufacturers specs, I was thinking about gaining room so I can still use the track that I have.

Yes if you remove the protectors you can run a 1.75" track. I think the 9T drivers will allow that too.

Then thats what will happen if need be. Whats the easiest way to remove the protectors with out wrecking them. The only rivets that are acessible for easy drilling are directly under the seat. To get at the rest, from what I have seen, I will have to remove the muffler and the gas tank. Thats if I want to drill from the easy side.

Well I finaly received the RX1 specific mounts for the ZX2. They bolt to the stock suspension mount holes to position the ZX2 exactly where it needs to be. I am wondering if they are also used on other yamaha sleds because there is another larger hole and a few smaller rivet holes that don't line up with any other holes on the 03 rx1. I am going to check it on my wifes attack and see it will work for it. I drew it up in CAD on my computer in case I need any more in the future. I will be instaling it on my next days off. I drove another sled the other day with the zx2 in it, it was also an 03 rx1 and it was no where near as tippy as mine, so I am looking forward to droping it to where it is suposed to be.

Got the plates instaled tonight. The extra holes in them are cut outs for existing rivets, so it looks like the are the proaction skid specific. What a pain in the a$$ cutting out the tunnel protectors. Will be ready to install the skid tomorrow.