Here's my new Idlers with pictures

I have searched this site for information on Idlers or Boggie wheels. When I had a interest in replaceing the ones on my sled I could never find out exactly which ones to buy and where to buy them at. So here is a post on the ones I used, where I bought them from, what size they are, what they cost and how they seem to mount up to the sled. By the way my stock idlers have not tore up as of yet but I feel that in time they will.

I purchased the Apex in the middle of March last year and only put on 396 miles. I plan on putting on a couple thousand miles this year and being from the south I don't have time during my trip for this kind of maitenance. So I'll call this preventative maitenance for now.

I purchased 12 new idlers wheels from Dennis Kirk; 6 for the Apex and 6 for the RS Venture. I installed the new wheels last night on the Apex along with some longer bolts from Yamaha (Yamaha Part #95817-10085-00) $1.25ea.

These new wheels have the same I.D. (25mm or about an inch) as the stock wheel bearings and are 1/4" larger (5 3/8") on the O.D. of the idler which means that they will extend 1/8" lower than stock on the bottom half. The width of the bearing is thicker by about an 1/8" and the total width of these idlers are about 1/8 wider than stock overall. I like the idea of these idlers because they have a replaceable bearing and since they hang down 1/8" from the center mount point it might just help on slide life.

When these idlers are mounted to the idler mount the bearing does not fit flush with the mount on the outside as the stock ones do. So I added 2 washers from Lowes to take up the space and act as spacers (1/8") before I installed the thick outside washer and nut .

On the 4 outside idlers I don't feel I have to modify the idler mount brackets cause the wheels seem to ride very close to the same line as the stock idlers. If one wanted to be 100% exact I would say the new idlers pertrude maybe 1/8" towards the outside of the track more than stock due to the wider idler in general. I find this to be acceptable and not a problem cause it doesn't interfere with anything.

With the track aligned I checked on how the new idlers were running on the inside. Now the 2 inside idlers that are towards the rear of the track I feel need to have the 2 idler mounts machined so that the new idler wheels run exactly in the center on the inside of the track. I think I need to have them machined no more than 3/32" so that the idlers mount closer to the rail and run exactly in the center of the rubber lugs.

These are my findings and thought I would share them with you folks. Here are some pictures.

Shivesy said:

With the track aligned I checked on how the new idlers were running on the inside. Now the 2 inside idlers that are towards the rear of the track I feel need to have the 2 idler mounts machined so that the new idler wheels run exactly in the center on the inside of the track. I think I need to have them machined no more than 3/32" so that the idlers mount closer to the rail and run exactly in the center of the rubber lugs.

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Now is it the mounts or just a bad batch of idler wheels, the reason I ask is that I am about ready to repalce mine and if I need to have the aluminium mounts machined first I will do that---most people feel as though it was just due to a bad batch of wheels. Would replacing them with new idler wheels be good enough or will the shredding wheels continue to be a problem if I do not machine the mounts.

Sparky 18:

The mounts have nothing to do with the way the stock OEM idler wheels perform. I'm not sure if Yamaha has fixed the problem by replacing the defective idlers with just another idler of the same type or if they have a new batch made. From what I read on some of the past post from last season is that they would delaminate again. Some dealers were even installing 05 all plastic wheels because there is no rubber on those wheels to delaminate.

The main reason I am having the rear only mounts machined (1/8") is to keep the new idlers runnung exactly centered on the track lugs that are located on the inside of the track. This machining of 1/8" may even be an overkill but I will feel better. It seems to be a pretty easy job for a machinist to do.

1/8" is too much to take off.

The 6205 bearings are 15mm wide and the 6005 bearings are 12mm wide.

To keep the 6205 centered you need to take off 1/2 of the difference or 1.5mm (same as 0.060").

Many of us, myself included, machined the rear inner idler mounts last season. In my experience, the older 2004 RX-1 (or any other year with the same style wheels with 6205 bearings) last about twice as long as the newer wheels with 6005 bearings - when the 6005 wheels didn't delaminate.

If they delaminate (and some did), the 06 idlers were junk in almost no time.

GO SEE PIONEER PERFORMANCE ;REAR SUSPENSION;IDLER KIT 89.00DOLLARDS U S COME BACK TO ME AFTER......

attakred06 said:

GO SEE PIONEER PERFORMANCE ;REAR SUSPENSION;IDLER KIT 89.00DOLLARDS U S COME BACK TO ME AFTER......

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What is the website?

bbjorklund99 said:

attakred06 said:

GO SEE PIONEER PERFORMANCE ;REAR SUSPENSION;IDLER KIT 89.00DOLLARDS U S COME BACK TO ME AFTER......

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What is the website?

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http://www.pioneerperformance.net/

Yes go to Pioneer. They sell a kit that offsets all six idlers down about 1/8 of an inch, which is like putting a 1/4 diameter larger wheel. Should help hyfax wear. Also they use the stock wheels so you don't have to keep track of where you bought them. Mine haven't delaminated yet. I also bought their extra wheel kit which also uses a stock Yamaha wheel, which is mounted on the curve in front of the front two idlers. Takes about two hours to install everything.

re-place all the idlers with the bigger wheels, put the slp anti-wear pads, pull up one on the limiter, adjust track so it just tight enough so it doesn't rachet and change the hyfax to the old style yamaha, they are narrow and the whole package give you alot less drag, less drag more speed

attakred06 said:

GO SEE PIONEER PERFORMANCE ;REAR SUSPENSION;IDLER KIT 89.00DOLLARDS U S COME BACK TO ME AFTER......

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Does anyone have any pictures?

Also, does anyone have a solution to lower the rear axle by 2.5mm?

The ideal solution would be to move the contact surface of all idlers down by 2.5mm, not just the smaller idlers.

I used the EXACT same wheels that Shivesy used and now have over 2300miles on mine...still perfect!!

After riding 1800 miles last year I decided to service all the wheels on the Apex and 4 of the 6 were perfect. The 4 outside wheels were the perfect ones. The 2 inner wheels had some slight chaffing on the outer edges. I beleive that the center track lugs must be coming into contact with the edges of the idler wheels due to the extra thickness on my new idlers. The 2 inners are not delaminating though. During my service I swapped the 2 inners with a couple of the outers and I'm moving forward with this set-up. I had great slide life last year so I'm sticking with the original slides again for this year. I also used the same style wheels last year on the RS Venture and all of the wheels are in new shape along with very good slide wear. My rails show no ill effect from these larger dia. wheels.
Ronnie

87gtNOS said:

I used the EXACT same wheels that Shivesy used and now have over 2300miles on mine...still perfect!!

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Same here, have put over 4000 miles and still very good. Only have problem with the two inside wheels. Nothing else than the 100% plastic wheels survived.

My two inner wheels are the plastic RX1 wheels. They too have lasted since I put on the Kimpex outers. however, they are each chamfered!!


On a side note: I just installed the ULMER anti-rub kit. Took 10 mins to install. Great idea, as my mono shock is getting pretty worn down!!!

Yummy said:

Only have problem with the two inside wheels. Nothing else than the 100% plastic wheels survived.

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LOL!! I just posted the exact same thing as you were posting!!!!