Bigwin
Extreme
Does anyone remember the post , that had instruction's on how to install the rear heat exchanger. Finally got mine yesterday and I want to tackle it this morning. Overheard you have to do some trimming, and my dealer wasn't much help. they never installed one yet. Bill
Bodacious
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Pretty straight forward install. If you are able to change your own oil and filter on this sled, you will have no problem with the heat exchanger what-so-ever.
Bigwin
Extreme
Well I guess Iam good to go, sounds and looks a little intimidating.
87gtNOS
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I only trimmed one side, and actually 'peeled' the aluminum back about an inch. Then I wiggled the exchanger through and put the peeled part back in place.
big guy
Extreme
Just did mine last night. Not that hard. Yes, you have to notch one side. I used a hack saw blade, bend it over to remove old pipe. Once cooler is installed I bent the metal back into orginal position and used black RTV silicon to cover the cutting. Also I lifted the rear of the machine 3 or 4 feet, then disconnected the the coolant hoses. This minimizes coolant loss. Once completed I filled the machine from the rear cooler. This will minimize bleeding time.
Dan.
Dan.
87gtNOS
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big guy said:Just did mine last night. Not that hard. Yes, you have to notch one side. I used a hack saw blade, bend it over to remove old pipe. Once cooler is installed I bent the metal back into orginal position and used black RTV silicon to cover the cutting. Also I lifted the rear of the machine 3 or 4 feet, then disconnected the the coolant hoses. This minimizes coolant loss. Once completed I filled the machine from the rear cooler. This will minimize bleeding time.
Dan.
I couldn't have said it better. I actually used a broken hacksaw blade..it's that easy.
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ROCKERDAN
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Bigwin said:Does anyone remember the post , that had instruction's on how to install the rear heat exchanger. Finally got mine yesterday and I want to tackle it this morning. Overheard you have to do some trimming, and my dealer wasn't much help. they never installed one yet. Bill
It is a real simple install.
1-raise rear of sled off ground,remove all rear shrouds,you need to get at rivets.(rear light shroud,rear corner shrouds,bumper itself can stay on)
2-you will need to get at reservoir,so remove tank shroud to see coolant tank.
3-get a pan and slowly loosed rear bleed screw on crossover tube,drain into pan....
4-now you need to cut with a dremel cutter,the black aluminim of tunnel on ONE SIDE ONLY.....cut it by following the silver alum ontop and bottom,you will make two parrallel cuts,only about 1.5 inches long or so...then BEND the black alum inward,this opens up enough room to remove tube and install new exchanger...black alum will get bent back into place when done.(pics below)
5-remove both side clamps on hoses at footrests...hold your pan underneath to catch coolant.
6-drill out two rivets holding tube in.
7- now slide out tube....
8-slide in new exchanger,its alittle tricky but finagle it back in.
9-hookup hoses,clamps...
10-rivet in with 3 rivets....you will need to drill out another lower rivet in middle.
11-once all installed...lower rear of sled down....remove CAP on reservoir coolant tank(main tank)....now useing pan underneath,slowly loosen bleed bolt on exchanger....you will hear air at first....then you will start to get coolant coming out...let ALL AIR Out...let it run until you get a solid stream of coolant....then air will all be out...try not to remove screw altogether as it will squirt all over....tighten screw.
12-fill coolant back to top,and this is when i added water wetter....so you might want to add that instead of more coolant if you think you want to...install coolant cap.
13-now start motor and let it heat up so exchanger is warm...check all connections for leaks...let it get warm.
14-shut off sled,and bleed it one more time...this will eliminate any residual air in system....the air gets trapped at rear typically as its higher.....you need to remove cap once again(let it cool first or use rag tightly around cap,as it will spit out some hot coolant)to allow coolant to seep out of bleeder screw...usually the second time there is no air in it,but this is just to be sure.
15-bend tab back into place,then reinstall all shrouds..top off your overflow tank to middle where it had level mark(or water wetter,or ionized water as the fluid is typically 100% coolant on these sleds)
Im gonna attach pics here of the cutting with dremel cutter..
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actionjack
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Anyone put a 121 rear cooler on an Attak or LTX? Pics?
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