Here we go.Will add more comments and titles later but here are pics as taken as job was being done.If just doing oil change you can stop after airbox removal.However I would recommend doing the starter also.I previously did mine and Loctite on bolts kept them both tight all year so it is a good fix.Some minor mods can make this easier in future and may even allow oil change WITHOUT removing airbox and headlight.
Disconnect Battery!
Remove the black headlight cover then all three screws for headlight.Top one just pops out other two are adjusters.Lose the little clips in pic so you can leave side panels on next time.
Disconnect Battery!
Remove the black headlight cover then all three screws for headlight.Top one just pops out other two are adjusters.Lose the little clips in pic so you can leave side panels on next time.
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Once headlight is out you will need to remove all vacuum hoses and unplug sensors.Not seen is the vacuum hoses under the two MAP sensors so be careful pulling airbox out till they are removed.
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Then remove rubber plugs in airbox lid.3 of them.Using a long allen wrench remove screws you will now see.
At this point airbox will pull out.Dont forget the vacuum hoses under the map sensors(outfits attached to airbox with blue writing on them.
You can access the oil filter at this point.I use a big channel lock since yes it is very tight in there.Of course you already drained oil from the tank and engine which needs no explanation.
At this point airbox will pull out.Dont forget the vacuum hoses under the map sensors(outfits attached to airbox with blue writing on them.
You can access the oil filter at this point.I use a big channel lock since yes it is very tight in there.Of course you already drained oil from the tank and engine which needs no explanation.
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From here on is what it takes to remove the entire front end and the starter.This is in addition to previous steps.Yes there may be other ways but this is the simplest without getting a sawzall involved 
Its really not bad much scarier than it actually is.Biggest hinderance to doing this is the steering linkage.You cant remove it without removing airbox.I believe by flipping this bolt all the previous steps could be skipped since steering could be disconnected here.Front end removal could then be done by just removing the big sidepanels and next steps.If this works would be a timesaver for sure.Untested though and if you do flip the bolt make sure it is Loctited and use a good bendable cotterpin.Surely dont want it falling out!
Its really not bad much scarier than it actually is.Biggest hinderance to doing this is the steering linkage.You cant remove it without removing airbox.I believe by flipping this bolt all the previous steps could be skipped since steering could be disconnected here.Front end removal could then be done by just removing the big sidepanels and next steps.If this works would be a timesaver for sure.Untested though and if you do flip the bolt make sure it is Loctited and use a good bendable cotterpin.Surely dont want it falling out!Attachments
First time it goes like this.Remove the safety clip and unbolt the steering arm here.Notice the punch marks.One on arm and one on splined shaft.They need to go back aligned so your bars stay aligned.
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Remove the oil inlet line from bottom of tank or remove the whole thing since there is a screen in there that should be cleaned once in awhile anyway.There is a O-ring seal on fitting.Dont lose it.You can also see one of the bolts needed for frame removal is covered by oiltank mount.
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Support the main sled like this.It is fairly stable and never tipped but be careful.
Now you just remove all the bolts holding frame onto aluminum casting.Notice the top ones are black and shorter.All others are same so no worries.
Now you just remove all the bolts holding frame onto aluminum casting.Notice the top ones are black and shorter.All others are same so no worries.
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RedPhazer
Expert
Cannondale27, you are the man! I was just getting ready to admit defeat and bring the sled into the dealership! After reading this post, I'll definately be doing the oil change myself. And YES, I am a bit lazy...
To fix potential starter failure you Loctite these bolts.ONE AT a TIME.If starter has already failed there is a slight green line and two little protrusions to line it back up and it should work then.Test it on battery before installing if it was failed.Use 272 or 262 Loctite.On these bolts and every other bolt and screw you removed.272 is permanent and even heat wont let it loose so maybe just starter bolts with that.Torquing would be advisable also.
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RedPhazer said:
Thanks.Dont get me wrong it takes time but isnt complicated.
OST
Expert
Excellent post cannondale27.
I too am gearing up to do an oil change for the first time.
This will certainly help me.
Thanks!
I too am gearing up to do an oil change for the first time.
This will certainly help me.
Thanks!
Glad its a help.
Those of you who have removed the front end before take a look.Since I flipped this bolt around(only possible with airbox removed)Now I can disconnect steering here.So I believe I should be able to skip airbox,headlight and even upper sidepanel removal.Think I am right?Sure looks like it?Would save a ton of time and would move frontend removal to my preferred method for oil change.
Those of you who have removed the front end before take a look.Since I flipped this bolt around(only possible with airbox removed)Now I can disconnect steering here.So I believe I should be able to skip airbox,headlight and even upper sidepanel removal.Think I am right?Sure looks like it?Would save a ton of time and would move frontend removal to my preferred method for oil change.
