Koby
Newbie
Pulled my 07 APEX out of storage and I'm getting a Code 46 on the display
I Checked the Fault Code Guide< (man this a great site), & It Says:
Fault Code # 46
ITEM = Vehicle System Power Supply (Monitor Voltage)
SYMPTOM = Power Suppy to FI System Is Not Normal
Fail Safe Action = Output To Grip Warmer Is OFF
Able / Unable To Start = ABLE
Able / Unable To Drive = ABLE
I Checked Voltage at Boost Leads
Running = 17.44
Off = 14.52
This does seem like really high battery voltage.
Can anybody point me in the right direction here.
I'm thinking maybe a bad battery. It's the original. Started fine though.
I'm so confused at thisw point.
I Checked the Fault Code Guide< (man this a great site), & It Says:
Fault Code # 46
ITEM = Vehicle System Power Supply (Monitor Voltage)
SYMPTOM = Power Suppy to FI System Is Not Normal
Fail Safe Action = Output To Grip Warmer Is OFF
Able / Unable To Start = ABLE
Able / Unable To Drive = ABLE
I Checked Voltage at Boost Leads
Running = 17.44
Off = 14.52
This does seem like really high battery voltage.
Can anybody point me in the right direction here.
I'm thinking maybe a bad battery. It's the original. Started fine though.
I'm so confused at thisw point.
First thing make sure electrical connection is top between terminals & the battery pole. In the process of doing so, feel the necessary torque to unset the terminal screw.. look for contaminant due to cheminal reaction between the different material. (lead/nickel green deposit)
Should all looks clean & tight, your battery plates are coated and no longer good; replace it. There are no real reversal to this bad, no matter how good charger with deshulfurisation phase can be (i agree to some degree of good for light case)
High voltage on your machine can bust your headlight, ecu and so on.
If you place the battery under charge, ( i'd recommend offline, that is disconnected from the sled) you will initially see a high voltage across, then gradually goes down to more "normal" readings +- 14 volt.
Should all looks clean & tight, your battery plates are coated and no longer good; replace it. There are no real reversal to this bad, no matter how good charger with deshulfurisation phase can be (i agree to some degree of good for light case)
High voltage on your machine can bust your headlight, ecu and so on.
If you place the battery under charge, ( i'd recommend offline, that is disconnected from the sled) you will initially see a high voltage across, then gradually goes down to more "normal" readings +- 14 volt.
Koby
Newbie
Thank you,
I will replace the battery with new fully charged battery and post the result to you.
I will replace the battery with new fully charged battery and post the result to you.
Koby
Newbie
I have replaced the battery with new fully charged and still have the code 46 error.
Do I have to reset the errors?
Do I have to reset the errors?
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
As always, when you start troubleshooting, you want a fully charged battery w/o being connected to a charger. You can charge a battery and load test it to see if it is good. Auto parts stores have load testers and often test batteries for free.
This time of year we have a lot of "bad" batteries. However, had they been charged monthly during the off-season they would not be considered "bad." They would be working. Also, these "bad" batteries can often be recovered if a proper charger is used to recover them. Sometimes they are not recoverable. But, many times they are. An Optimate Charger will save you a lot of headaches. But even then, one has to use it during the off-season, at least monthly is recommended.
The code on you sled will clear when things are right. 17+ volts is too high at the battery. That is a problem. Did you check and clean the connections to the Rectifier/Voltage Regulator located in front of the ECU in the nose of the sled? You may want to also check the wires down there for chaffing, too.
However, it is impossible to get 14 volts when the engine is off and the battery is not charging. Did you verify that your meter is accurate? You may want to try testing the voltage of another battery to verify the meter. A fully charged battery will read about 12.4 - 12.8 VDC.
Once you verify the test meter, then test the sled's voltage when idling. It should be about 12 - 14 VDC. If it is not in this range, the voltage regulator or connections to it could have gone bad. If it is in this range leave the sled at idle and the code should clear. Once it clears, if you rev and the charging voltage shoots back up to 17 VDC, then you will get the code again. Again, if this happens the voltage regulator or its connections are bad.
So once you have a fully charged the battery, please do let us know how you are making out.
This time of year we have a lot of "bad" batteries. However, had they been charged monthly during the off-season they would not be considered "bad." They would be working. Also, these "bad" batteries can often be recovered if a proper charger is used to recover them. Sometimes they are not recoverable. But, many times they are. An Optimate Charger will save you a lot of headaches. But even then, one has to use it during the off-season, at least monthly is recommended.
The code on you sled will clear when things are right. 17+ volts is too high at the battery. That is a problem. Did you check and clean the connections to the Rectifier/Voltage Regulator located in front of the ECU in the nose of the sled? You may want to also check the wires down there for chaffing, too.
However, it is impossible to get 14 volts when the engine is off and the battery is not charging. Did you verify that your meter is accurate? You may want to try testing the voltage of another battery to verify the meter. A fully charged battery will read about 12.4 - 12.8 VDC.
Once you verify the test meter, then test the sled's voltage when idling. It should be about 12 - 14 VDC. If it is not in this range, the voltage regulator or connections to it could have gone bad. If it is in this range leave the sled at idle and the code should clear. Once it clears, if you rev and the charging voltage shoots back up to 17 VDC, then you will get the code again. Again, if this happens the voltage regulator or its connections are bad.
So once you have a fully charged the battery, please do let us know how you are making out.
Koby
Newbie
Okay,
After, replacing the battery with a new fully charged unit, I was still gettting the Error Code 46. It was oil change day as well, so while I had the wifes Phaser apart I borrowed her voltage regulator and tried it. Voltage output stabalized and the code cleared.
New regulator will be here tommorrow.
No harm done with the advice on the battery. I had 3 seasons on it, and do not mind having a new one.
As for the bad meter comment, I have a Fluke meter, and it is accurate.
The battery voltage when I shut the machine down read over 14.5 and went down from there.
Thanks
Koby
After, replacing the battery with a new fully charged unit, I was still gettting the Error Code 46. It was oil change day as well, so while I had the wifes Phaser apart I borrowed her voltage regulator and tried it. Voltage output stabalized and the code cleared.
New regulator will be here tommorrow.
No harm done with the advice on the battery. I had 3 seasons on it, and do not mind having a new one.
As for the bad meter comment, I have a Fluke meter, and it is accurate.
The battery voltage when I shut the machine down read over 14.5 and went down from there.
Thanks
Koby
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
We had dozens of Flukes at the N-plant. You would be surprised at how many failed calibration tests and how far out they were. But if you were measuring right after engine shut off, it is possible that there simply was enough capacitance to give you a higher reading.
But, it sounds like the Voltage Regulator may be the culprit. Glad you found it. Have a great season!
But, it sounds like the Voltage Regulator may be the culprit. Glad you found it. Have a great season!
Koby
Newbie
No worries - off to a good start to the season - 3 trips in - apex performing flawlessly - had a pow day literally neck deep, and i'm 6 ft tall - glad i'm not a procrastinator and got the iron out early to identify these little hick ups.
Ride hard!!~
Ride hard!!~
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Glad to see that you got it!
crt103
Newbie
I read this post and have a few questions about my sled.
I have a 2010 Nytro. I put on 170 miles the other day with no problems noticed. I shut the sled off to wait for a few guys and when I went to start it the battery was dead and flashing 46. I trailered it home and checked the battery terminals. The positive was a little loose and corroded. I cleaned up both terminals and re-connected them. I put a charger on it for the night. The next day I checked the voltage with the sled off and there was 12.8 volts. I started the sled and the code cleared in a few seconds. I checked the voltage while it was running and it was 11.5 volts and slowly dropping so it appears that it is not getting charged when it is running.
Where do I start looking? After reading the post I will check the connections at the voltage reg. Is there a relay that controls the charging circuit?
Thanks.
I have a 2010 Nytro. I put on 170 miles the other day with no problems noticed. I shut the sled off to wait for a few guys and when I went to start it the battery was dead and flashing 46. I trailered it home and checked the battery terminals. The positive was a little loose and corroded. I cleaned up both terminals and re-connected them. I put a charger on it for the night. The next day I checked the voltage with the sled off and there was 12.8 volts. I started the sled and the code cleared in a few seconds. I checked the voltage while it was running and it was 11.5 volts and slowly dropping so it appears that it is not getting charged when it is running.
Where do I start looking? After reading the post I will check the connections at the voltage reg. Is there a relay that controls the charging circuit?
Thanks.
- Joined
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- Winnipeg, Manitoba
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2009 Phazer RTX
crt103 said:I read this post and have a few questions about my sled.
I have a 2010 Nytro. I put on 170 miles the other day with no problems noticed. I shut the sled off to wait for a few guys and when I went to start it the battery was dead and flashing 46. I trailered it home and checked the battery terminals. The positive was a little loose and corroded. I cleaned up both terminals and re-connected them. I put a charger on it for the night. The next day I checked the voltage with the sled off and there was 12.8 volts. I started the sled and the code cleared in a few seconds. I checked the voltage while it was running and it was 11.5 volts and slowly dropping so it appears that it is not getting charged when it is running.
Where do I start looking? After reading the post I will check the connections at the voltage reg. Is there a relay that controls the charging circuit?
Thanks.
I would double check to make sure fuses and wire connections are all good then test the stator.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Start by load testing the battery. If it load tests O.K., then focus on the charging voltage. If the charging voltage is not 13.8 VDC+ then there is a charging problem. if it is O.K., then there may be a short someplace. Also, I once had a charging coil in the stator that was at first intermittent. Finally, it just went open.
crt103
Newbie
When it comes to the electrical system on the sled I am not that knowledgable. Where is the stator on the nytro and how do you test it to see if it is good/bad?
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
The Stator tests are described in the Tech Manual. You might do a little searching around to find that. But then again, if you are not up to speed on electrical testing, then I would suggest finding someone who is. It can save you a lot of time.
grizztracks
Tech Advisor
- Joined
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- Age
- 60
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The Stator is located on the right side of the engine behind the oil tank. You
can see the wires coming out of the stator cover if you look between the oil
tank and brake rotor. The wires run to the nose of the sled and plug into the
voltage regulator located under the ECU. unplug the connector and measure the
stator resistance at the plug. If the resistance is within specs replace the
voltage regulator.
can see the wires coming out of the stator cover if you look between the oil
tank and brake rotor. The wires run to the nose of the sled and plug into the
voltage regulator located under the ECU. unplug the connector and measure the
stator resistance at the plug. If the resistance is within specs replace the
voltage regulator.
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