Exhaust Donut Replacement Procedure

This procedure explains how to replace exhaust donuts in a 2006 RS Vector.

1) Seat Removal:

--remove rear exhaust trim in order to access the 2 seat J-bolts.
--remove the 2 J-bolt nuts then lift rear of seat.
--disconnect the tail light plug (front RH side of the seat).
--remove seat and set it to the side.

2) Tank Removal:

--disconnect the two fuel lines on the front RH side of the tank. Gas will drain from the lower delivery line so either drain the tank first or use a short piece of 1/4" fuel line to jump between the upper and lower tank nipple.
--disconnect the fuel sensor plug on the front LH side of tank
--remove handle bar pad then unbolt the 4 handle bars bolts (12mm socket).
--remove gas cap and black rubber fill neck ring
--remove the 2 knee panel bolts (phillips head) and the 2 nuts at the rear tank mounts (12mm socket).
--lift the plastic tank cover up over the fill and swing it and the handle bars around to the front.
--disconnect the vent tube located in front of the gas fill.
--replace the gas cap then lift the rear of the tank over the mounting studs and slide it back. Remove the tank and place it to the side.

3) Exhaust Repositioning:

--unbolt the 4 muffler bolts (12mm socket) and the 2 front muffler cover bolts (10mm socket)
-- remove the black rubber tunnel plugs to expose the 2 front exhaust hanger bolts. Remove the bolts with a 6mm allen socket. (clear any debre out of the cap so that the socket fits securely. If the bolts will not turn tapping on the socket with a hammer or using a hand held screw impact driver may loosen them.
-- remove the 4 exhaust manifold cover screws (10mm socket) to expose the 3 donut clamps.
-- with a 6mm allen sock remove the v-clamp bolts. The clamps are normally loose enough to rotate them up so that they can be sprayed with penetrating oil before removal.
-- with the clamps removed slide the muffler back. It doesn't move far and will not give enough clearance to replace the donuts so a large pair of channel locks pliers will be needed to compress the flex pipe. With the flex pipe compressed there should be just enough room to get the new donuts in but be careful not to damage the pipe or new donuts.

Note: Removing the flex pipes may be a more desirable method to gain access to the donuts. It also allows for thorough inspection of the pipes for cracks.

4) Optional Clamp Modification:

--use a grinder to remove a couple millimeters of the clamp spacers. this will allow the clamp to be pulled tighter on the flange and should extend the life of the seals.

Excellent, thanks grizztracks

grizz,

Just wondering about the rivet removal I've read about? Is compressing the exhaust thingy taking the place of removing the rivets?

Nice job, and thanks from us all!

The front hanger is bolted to a support riveted to the tunnel. unfortunately when the bolts under the plugs are removed the support prevents the exhaust from sliding back out of the way. Some have drilled out the rivets and dropped the support but I never needed to go that far. Unbolting the exhaust bolts and using channel lock pliers to compress the flex pipe gives just enough space to get the donuts in and out. I've done a few of these on both Vectors and Nytros and this procedure works for me.

grizztracks said:

I've done a few of these on both Vectors and Nytros and this procedure has works for me.

Click to expand...

I noticed in your first post the year of your sled, would this procedure/job be the same or very very close to an 08 and a Delta-2 chasis?

I haven't done them on a delta box II yet but I have done the donut replacement on the FX Nytro's and the procedure is similar. I don't believe that Yamaha made any changes on the exhaust system when they went to the new chassis. The parts are all the same.

Maybe someone with a delta box II can verify this for us.

grizztracks said:

I haven't done them on a delta box II yet but I have done the donut replacement on the FX Nytro's and the procedure is similar. I don't believe that Yamaha made any changes on the exhaust system when they went to the new chassis. The parts are all the same.

Maybe someone with a delta box II can verify this for us.

Click to expand...

Thanks

Hopefully someone with a D-2 chimes in.

I've done them on my wife's DII, exactly the same PITA.

Brilliant write up Just what I need for my donut change later this year

Thanks a lot!!

Great write up Grizz. Thanks for sharing. This should be a sticky! G.B.

Gone Blue said:

Great write up Grizz. Thanks for sharing. This should be a sticky! G.B.

Click to expand...

I just sent a PM to "sledheadd" requesting that he sticky this.

Groomerdriver said:

I just sent a PM to "sledheadd" requesting that he sticky this.

Click to expand...

Beat him to it.

Great job griz,....I was one of the guys who drilled out the rivets. If i had seen the channel locks maneuver I would have tried that first,....but the 2 allen head bracket bolts can be difficult to back out.
If you drill the rivets make sure to use OEM (strong) rivets when replacing the ones drilled out....I made the mistake of using hardware store aluminum rivets and the bracket came loose.
SS rivets in it now .

Yea, those hanger bolts can be tough. I normally can get them broke loose but about half way out they bind up so. I spray some good penetrating oil around the heads then work the bolts back and forth until it comes out. A good tool to invest in is a screw impact driver with a socket attachment. I've had one for years and it has worked great for breaking loose screws and bolts.

Crewchief47 said:

Groomerdriver said:

I just sent a PM to "sledheadd" requesting that he sticky this.

Click to expand...

Beat him to it.

Click to expand...

Thanks 47!!!