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Do you happen to know the part number of the push pins you are using and the hole size you drilled?

I had the same thought, then re-read the OP's post. He stated oil leaked out and he continued to limp it back. I'm assuming that means it got hot from running without lube and hence why it looks so dry (overheated oil baked on gears).

If you're already looking at adding $2k to a sled you like and concerned about still not having EPS, you could add another $1500 and have that too. It'd still be WAY cheaper than a new one and it'd feel like a brand new machine next season.

Fronts and center are interchangeable. The rear track shock is a different length between 129 and 137.

On the 137”, there was a change to the rear shock that eliminated a travel issue that was causing the shock body to crack. I think this change happened around 2019 or 2020 and is easily visible by looking at the angle of the bottom of the reservoir relative to the shock shaft. If it’s 90...

I'd recommend putting an actual gage on it (temporarily). Oil pressure will decrease as the oil temp rises so it is possible that you have a real oil pressure issue (clearances too high, or pump flow too low) that is borderline with cold oil (higher pressure), but falls below the threshold when...

Due to your comment about hearing grinding when trying to shift into reverse, it makes me think the large plastic gear in your reverse actuator (the black part on the outside of the chain case) is stripping teeth. That will cause you to hear a grinding sound when it attempts to shift. Others...

I did the upgrade during the off season. However, I ended up using the 17+ shaft assembly that comes pre-assembled with bearing and brace behind the secondary clutch. I used the standard 6206 bearing and two 2 3/8” internal snap rings to take up the additional 4 mm. I haven’t put any miles on...

Many incorrectly believe that the shock is what provides the force to extend the suspension. Depending on the type of shock, this can be either a very small truth or no truth at all. The primary purpose of any shock is to restrict motion. Non gas charged shock - these are not charged with...

This looks pretty sweet! Will be great to know if it has group ride tracking built in and if that works sled to sled or if it relies on the phone connection for internet. Also wish they'd make it compatible with Procross, but it looks like it's likely to be only for Catalyst.

Agree with the ECU update comment. Additionally, at that mileage, most are finding the exhaust valves clearance to be well under the spec. I just did mine at 6800 miles and every exhaust valve was at least .003 less than the spec. I have read of many that are very difficult to start and even...

The poster above is spot on. Make it easy, every change of 10 printed on the shim is a change of approx .004” So if you have a 180 shim and measure .0055, changing to a 170 shim will make you .0095 Also note the typical shim kits move only in increments of 5, but you can buy in 2.5 increments...

Save yourself a LOT of time and do the bar method rather than removing the tensioner.

I used the Yamaha part, but pretty sure they are identical.

Pretty straight forward, but easier to access if you remove hood. I ended up removing the plastic holder for the old filter too. If I recall correctly, I had to remove the right side support over the tank too, but that’s just 2 bolts.

I did the same mod before this season on my Viper. It ran all season (about 1700 miles) without the filter and I didn’t notice any adverse effects. The part number I used was 8NF-F4310-00-00 and it was about $25.

I know I was clicking around on the LTX LE model and after 8 mins it was point you direct to waitlist. All LTX models were like that within 20 mins. Absolutely crazy!!!

Add another one to the list that had exhaust valves under spec. with far less than 25k miles on the clock. I only had 6800 miles, but based on everyone else's findings in this thread, I still thought it would be a good idea to check them. I did use the flat steel bar (1/8"x1"x36") method...

I am looking for a helix for a stock ‘15 Viper RTX. I believe this is the same 43 degree helix that was used stock on MANY Yamaha models dating back to the mid 1990’s. The part number is 8BV-17604-31-00 Prefereably, I could locate a new take off from someone who added a clutch kit immediately...

If I were tackling that failure, I’d be putting a 17+ chaincase housing in with a secondary shaft from 17+. This will eliminate the wobble bearing and update your parts the stronger and more proven designs. The suggestions about addressing the chain tensioner, top gear bushing, and drive...