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Since the sled has had a lot of work completed, it should be gone through thoroughly

Fu€ that its fine. SEND IT! Put those head studs in and let her rip! Do the studs yourself, if you want it done right do it yourself. Go over the sled with a fine tooth comb. Check everything from hose clamps, intake boots, chassis bolts Ect. The sled will be fine, it’s brand new, human...

That’s Badass

Yea, you really can’t hurt the 998 with a stock turbo and good tune. It’s always better to make more horsepower with less boost, your fuel quality generally isn’t as finicky. Studs and springs for anything over 300hp, that’s just an insurance plan especially if your using launch control.

Have you guys noticed that they now have flashing software for the 998 YXZ’s? I wonder if they will come out with software for snowmobile ecu’s? This would be awsome!!! Ignition and fuel control without piggy back PCV and a host of other features...

Maxing out the stock turbo you should do head studs and valve springs. You can spit a shim with the stock springs.

If the engine twists clockwise it will actually push the centers further apart.

No they do not account for torque pulling in the clutch center or shifting the engine off parallel. The mounts are much stiffer than the old sleds but a tuned Winder will move the motor somewhat, hence being on the low side of offset helps account somewhat. I did a test where I took off my...

The edge and center are both accurate ways of setting offset as long as the parallel of the motor and Jackshaft are good. If the parallel is off the Hurricane tool is better and gets you closer to a good alignment. Instead of measuring at the outside edge of the primary you measure at the...

Nice ;)!;)!

There’s usually a model number on the back of the aem gauges, you should be able to get an online manual for it. I believe that gauge controls your boost. It sounds like you have the rod properly set, now if you just program the gauge for desired boost your good to go.

The mcx kits don’t have electronic boost control to the best of my knowledge.

Take a picture of the gauge, I believe you have a aem true boost gauge. In that case the gauge is programmable to control boost. The aem fail safe gauge does not control boost.

The AEM fail safe gauge does not control boost, it just sends a signal to the controller that there’s a problem and the controller cuts boost. I would leave everything alone if you were not having any trouble. The preload on the wastegate should be set rather light with an electronic boost...

Pressure line from the compressor housing or charge pipe goes into the bottom of the manual controller. The hose coming off the side of the controller goes to the wastegate. The preload on the wastegate depends on the spring inside and how much boost pressure you intend on running. I don’t mess...

You will need to remove the electronic boost controller in order to use the manual unit. Generally speaking the electronic unit will work better than a manual control if tuned properly. Why are you changing it?

Yea that’s definitely a 3 port boost control solinoid

Hey no problem, anytime I can help! Next time your up in Rhinelander at the cabin let me know, we could have a friendly grudge match. :drink:

I like the merge collectors on these two headers, very clean look! Nice Pieces

You could call Carver and ask, they would be helpful I’m sure