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Try jumping the starter relay to see if it'll turn over. If the battery is good and it doesn't turn over then the starter failed.

The 2009 RS Venture was carb'd but the 2009 RS Venture GT came with EFI. Did you check the starter relay connections for corrosion? Also, the fuse in the starter relay is for the Fuel Injection System.

If it's not the ECU I'd continue by checking the reluctor ring and valve lash clearance. Both of these are simple checks that require no parts unless there's a problem.

Try swapping out the ECU's to eliminate that as the problem.

Two things I'd be checking: 1) Reluctor ring on the stub shaft to see if it slipped putting the crank position out of time. 2) Valve lash. Both conditions will cause idle and/or startup issues.

The FI engine has a crank position sensor that reads of the reluctor ring on the stub shaft and the carb'd engine has a pulser coil in with the stator. Two different ignition systems that I believe would require the engines original wire harness and ECU to run properly. Even if the...

Hose connections are shown for adjusting carb #2 to the preset carb #3. For this configurations adjust screw #2 until the sync tool is balanced then reinstall #2 fuel pump vacuum hose to the carb. Move the T-hose over to #1 carb , reconnect the #1 fuel pump vacuum hose to the "T" and sync #1...

As long as the crank alignment marks (II) are aligned in the stator cover window you are good. Align the cam marks and release the chain tensioner. Here's a good video setting the chain on a YXZ engine but it's the same.

Yes, definitely not charging and your output voltages indicate a bad stator. A carb'd engine doesn't drain the battery like a FI engine but even with a good, fully charged battery the lighting, ignition coils, carb heaters, ECU and handlebar warmers will eventually drain it. Without the stator...

what's the battery voltage at high rpm?

That's a poorly wired valve. Good thing you found the problem before it left you stranded out on Wanapitei. It could have been a long cold walk to Rocky's

that's not factory installed.

It's usually the non gusseted 2008 frames that bend like that. I've attempted to repair a couple but had to cut welds to realign the frame and then reweld it. Back when I was attempting to repair frames you could purchase one new for under $400 so after a few attempts I decided it was better to...

The last time I ran into a frame bent like that the sled was rolled and took a hard hit when it came down on the side of the ski. I'm not sure if it's possible to reinforce the frame for these type of impacts that twist the upper and lower portions out of square. I'll have a couple of frames out...

That weld on the gusset looks rough. How are the a-arm bolt holes?

I ran a couple sets of the Stud Boy shaper bars on Curve skis and both sets wore out rather quickly just forward of center. This was on a Nytro with the ski rubbers shimmed. I liked the way the shaper bars handled but didn't like the uneven wear so I switched to Snow Studs round bar carbides...

The valve cover is not that hard to remove but if the valves need adjusted the cams need to be lifted which means the timing chain would need to be removed then reset. To do that the rear engine mount would need to be removed so the engine could be rocked forward to gain access to the chain...

So did the tech remove the valve cover and measure the valve clearance or is this an assumption on his part?

Check the frame to see how bad it got bent. If there's no apparent damage to the frame then try using a pry bar between the a-arms to move it back. Remove the lower a-arm and set it on a flat surface to see if it's bent. If it rocks it's bent.

If you go with the newer 3 piece ball joint you'll need: 2 ball joints, 4 spacers and 4 washers. I believe the washer thickness changed when Yamaha made the ball joint update. The new washer part# is 90201-10052-00. If you keep the ball joints lubed with a dry spray lubricant they last a long...