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Agree with the ECU update comment. Additionally, at that mileage, most are finding the exhaust valves clearance to be well under the spec. I just did mine at 6800 miles and every exhaust valve was at least .003 less than the spec. I have read of many that are very difficult to start and even...

The poster above is spot on. Make it easy, every change of 10 printed on the shim is a change of approx .004” So if you have a 180 shim and measure .0055, changing to a 170 shim will make you .0095 Also note the typical shim kits move only in increments of 5, but you can buy in 2.5 increments...

Save yourself a LOT of time and do the bar method rather than removing the tensioner.

I used the Yamaha part, but pretty sure they are identical.

Pretty straight forward, but easier to access if you remove hood. I ended up removing the plastic holder for the old filter too. If I recall correctly, I had to remove the right side support over the tank too, but that’s just 2 bolts.

I did the same mod before this season on my Viper. It ran all season (about 1700 miles) without the filter and I didn’t notice any adverse effects. The part number I used was 8NF-F4310-00-00 and it was about $25.

I know I was clicking around on the LTX LE model and after 8 mins it was point you direct to waitlist. All LTX models were like that within 20 mins. Absolutely crazy!!!

Add another one to the list that had exhaust valves under spec. with far less than 25k miles on the clock. I only had 6800 miles, but based on everyone else's findings in this thread, I still thought it would be a good idea to check them. I did use the flat steel bar (1/8"x1"x36") method...

I am looking for a helix for a stock ‘15 Viper RTX. I believe this is the same 43 degree helix that was used stock on MANY Yamaha models dating back to the mid 1990’s. The part number is 8BV-17604-31-00 Prefereably, I could locate a new take off from someone who added a clutch kit immediately...

If I were tackling that failure, I’d be putting a 17+ chaincase housing in with a secondary shaft from 17+. This will eliminate the wobble bearing and update your parts the stronger and more proven designs. The suggestions about addressing the chain tensioner, top gear bushing, and drive...

Should be ‘23. I edited the original post.

My setup is an RTX with no studs. I took 2 trips this year at about 800 miles each with the Stryke skis. Both trips I used a 2.5 shim under the rear of the ski and 0 in the front. The first trip I used a 4” round bar and it was a bit too darty especially on decel when weight would transfer...

According to the ‘23 Tech Bulletin, the EPS sleds all have a 5mm shim in the rear position of the ski and use a slightly longer at the rear 4 bar staggered carbide. The non-EPS models have a 0 shim in the rear of the ski and use the shorter 3 bar staggered carbide. Those are likely...

I've been looking at upgrading the secondary (jackshaft) shaft to the 17+ arrangement and ditching the 2206 wobble bearing with locking collar that is in the upper location in the chaincase. I know the chaincase housing is different on the 17+ due to the use of the 6206 bearing that is 4 mm...

Agreed. This is exactly the same flash as referred to in post #9 of this thread.

I would love to see a source on this. Something like a tech bulletin or even annual tech update page would be awesome if you have it.

Bolt and washer should work fine assuming you still have both middle wheels left. Many models are / have been delivered right from the factory with only the two inner wheels. You just need to get something in there to tighten the axle against the rail on your right side. I wouldn't be riding...

One thing to check is the tone wheel on the stub shaft. There have been cases found where it is no longer aligned per the notch on the splines and this directly offsets ignition timing as this tone wheel is what reads crankshaft position. To check this, you need to pull the primary clutch and...

I also looked at the ’23 tech update book. There are several places In it (and pics) that show this model with QS3 fronts. However, there is one place where it shows QS3R fronts. I don’t see anywhere in the tech update saying R’s for the rear. Would be best if a happy owner posted a pic of...

The ads still say QS3, but if you go look at the parts catalogs, those are QS3R’s. Anyone on here have one and care to post a quick picture of the machine? Will be easy to tell the QS3 from the QS3R.