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The weights in your primary all should pivot with ease. This will contribute to the problem you are having. Remove those weights from the clutch and clean them until they all move freely. They should not be sticking what so ever.
I may need the big boy spring as I have the cam on the highest notch and the preload on the third setting and the spring is still just a little too soft still, but the suspension does not sag. It only bottoms at higher speeds.
You will need to have a spring compressor to remove the spring. The peace that you are turning with the wrench will be able to move freely up the shock. Under that peace you will see a clip that can be moved to two other settings. move this to its highest setting towards the middle of the shock...
Preload needs to be stiffer and clips need to be moved, turning the cam is not enough. Preload is at its softest setting stock. see photo from TBay above.
TBay is correct, you need to remove the shock, remove the spring and move the clip up two positions. this will have your suspension riding at the top of its travel.
Mine did this last year and found it to be TPS. It was dumping too much fuel and trying to flood out. As I gave it gas it would pop and backfire. If I took it past engagement for a run it would run fine until I came back down to idle speed. It would not start unless you held throtle 1/4 open...
Woody's duel carbides will take care of the darting 100%. The bucking issue is hard to eliminate if your wife is a light rider. Turn the tunnel dial 10 clicks back from hard and add some transfer, If the transfer is eliminated the ride will be stiff from the start.
First off the GT has 22/38 for stock gears. This is why it is so tourquey. Just change the top gear to 23 tooth and you will gain 6 mph without loosing performance.
Its not a drain tube it is a vacuum line and it needs to go back on before you start the sled. The line goes to a nipple between the oil tank and the gearbox on the crank case. Use a flashlight and you will see it. It is easier to pull the tube off from the engine to give some slack then out...
Plugs will not fix this. You can keep this going if you give it alot of gas after it starts. The reason is that you are getting about 60 to 70% of the available fuel at idle. The TPS will cost about $230.00.
It is flooding out. It fired then quit emediately. Crack the throttle and turn it over and see if it starts. If it starts it will not run on its own at idle. If this runs but not well until rpms are high then it is your TPS "throttle position sensor" It will think that your throttle is wide...
If you want to feel how much pull these weights have then you have to load them with more weight. The stock spring is not strong enough. The HC black works best for me. One screw in tip and screw pluss washer in heel. You want to keep adding weight to the heel as long as your rpm's maintain. I...
At 6-1 the silver spring is too soft and will pull through too quick dropping rpm's. First just change the silver spring to 6-3 and go for a run.
Don't change too much all at once as you will not know which change fixed the problem for fine tuning.
There is a nut holding the top gear on. Remove the cover first to get to all the parts. The bolt in the center of the bottom gear also needs to be removed.
I am currently running the 21/38 gears on my 06 attak which is two gears down from stock 23/38. I had the clutches cut for overdrive and run heel clicker two speeds for weights loaded up heavy to hold rpm's where I need them. I would never go back to stock gears as the pull is so much more its...
I have come up with a better mouse trap to change these belts but would like to market this new tool so I will need to figure this out before I release it. Very easy to use and much quicker on and off. Not sure how to do this yet, maybe someone here can give me pointers.
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