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Happened to see one of these sleds at the dealer on the weekend and the rear was in the lower hole. Looks like that's how the LE's are mounted.

Interesting info, I will have to test how it sits in each position. I was thinking the le is in the bottom hole for more ski pressure/bite for trail use.

Interesting read, seems like there is lots of confusion on Yamaha's part. It's probably best to go by what cat is doing on the riot, it is their chassis after all. I thought the mounting position may have been related to the front pivot arm getting destroyed, so just wanted to confirm so it...

Thanks for the reply, from my research all of Yamahas stock photos show the rear mounted in the lower hole on the xtx le. Looking at the arctic cat riot, it is mounted the same in the front however the rear is in the top hole. This is why I’m a little unsure.

Just a buddys winder, the dealers he had it at butchered it. Now I’m stuck with fixing all the issues.

Had this sled at a few dealers and they ended up putting the rear skid in different mounting holes. Does anyone know what the stock holes are and what the others positions would do?

That should be much easier moving them then. Essentially the longer track should do everything the vec can do only better.

Unfortunately pulling the limiter will also change the angle of the track, they are mechanically connected through the rails. The only way to change that angle is to move the upper rear wheels further back until it gets closer/steeper. I think the upper cross shaft may bottom out on the rails...

How tight is the track as is compresses? It may compress easily but essentially add spring force to the suspension since it's acting as a rubber band. I struggled with this on a 144 M-10 with tipped rails, the tipped rails make it worse. To have correct track tension the angle of the front...

Should look like this when disassembled.

That is the inlet endcap that connects to the y-pipe, the outlet endcap that you normally see has the excell logo. My goal is to make this as quiet as possible at cruising speeds, I'm tired of the drone of the stock exhaust, mine was deafening.

The "secondary core" I'm referring to is part of the inlet end cap and is about 3" long but much larger diameter than the main core. Photos below showing the core and hair packing.

I know this is an old thread but how did you make out with the repack? I am doing one right now and noticed there is a secondary core with what looks like header wrap. Also the main packing looks like long hair, very strange.

A longer snow flap helps a ton as well

Mine were way out at 12,000 miles, others have been out much earlier as well

Sounds like the valves are out of adjustment.

I have done it this way as well, works awesome! I towed this doo for over 200 km, plus the person can ride with you instead of a cold dead sled.

I used JB weld to plug them, it was not easy though, not much clearance to the pivot bolt.

You will have to plug those holes or the arms will fill with grease. Not sure if the new arms have the holes or not.

I had the lens laser etched with the tuning fork on the back side. By the looks of it the light is not obstructed at all.