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It might throw out your balance a bunch... that warrior suspension is about 4" taller (I think) than what your vmax is supposed to have.

Start with? That list I gave you is, quite literally, EVERYTHING it can possibly be.

No... put it AFTER the load control relay, that way it is switched off when the key is turned off. Give it a 3-5 amp fuse, the load control relay is perfectly able to handle it.

Translation: bad conditions. You want it REAL cold out, like -20, freshly groomed, say about 2-3 hours before, and nobody's driven on it. In those conditions, your RX will rip your arms out while his will sit there like granny's car.

All of those parts can be *tested*. Check the service manual for details. Search this forum for the service manual if you don't already have it. Note that there is an "apex" manual around, it *includes* the original RX manuals.

Actually, I just looked at the timbersled, and it definitely *does* have coupling. In fact, its coupling is very similar to that on a yamaha proaction skid. However, this alone doesn't make it suitable for the OP's type of riding. To start with, you need more WHEELS for trail riding...

Sounds like you need an ExpertX. They're made for exactly what you're looking to do.

This is typically done before stapling the seat cover on. You may need to get creative on this, I suggest trying to find a very stiff wire, like a coat hanger, and feed it through like a needle. If you can't do that, you'll need to unstaple the seat cover.

If you're riding on ice (with or without loose snow on top), then obviously he'll get you due to difference in traction. Try racing in conditions that the machines are designed for, i.e. SNOW. If you race him on a good thick base of hardpack snow, you'll EASILY take him.

A tee can affect the readings. You want to have exactly the same thing on all nozzles being measured.

"Like Rocky".... Best left in the 80's.

... or if you didn't before, you do after. LaLaLa Rattle under the seat may, in some *isolated* cases, indicate an exhaust leak, but more likely, it is just a rattle. Especially on 03's, which had exhaust heat shields that were notorious for their rattling.

A barrel of crude will yield a certain fixed amount of gasoline and a certain fixed amount of diesel. This means that you need to control the consumption by adjusting the prices to balance the gasoline consumption against diesel consumption (and other related fuels, like furnace oil) in the same...

Track change varies depending on the conditions you are working under. If you are working in a heated and brightly lit garage, it should probably go pretty fast. If you're working outside in a blizzard, it will require frequent visits to the inside to warm up and could end up taking a lot...

I think that the question of 1 or 2 ply is moot. Track failures tend to start at the lugs, with the exception of stud pull outs. Since studs aren't an issue, there is zero chance of that. Comparing the actual 1 ply track against a 2 ply, the main belt is just as thick and sturdy. I just went...

Ignition.

If you check by screwing it in (i.e., INCORRECTLY), then you will be UNDER FILLING it.

Stator, rectifier/voltage regulator, main fuse, all the wires linking them all together.

Why don't you take a few minutes to think about that one a little longer. I'm sure that it will come to you eventually. :drink:

That depends on the kind of shocks you have. If you have fox floats, you need to adjust air pressure. If you have regular steel springs, you need to thread the retainer nuts up or down the shaft as you require.