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I'm not familiar with the BOP kit and it may or may not work as well as these different torsion springs but I can tell you these springs with the proper shock revalve work very well. Changing the torsion springs is a bit more work than relocating the spring block but I know it works.
Upon further review...I've decided to go the same route as Clutchmaster and add a 40a relay back near the pump and trigger it off the existing relay and wiring.
Completely agree, Both of my vipers and my Winder have the wedge installed. Last must do on my list would be 4 wheels across the back which I have also done. I guess the fuse box relocate on the Vipers should be done as well, just did one yesterday although I did my own fix for that.
While you have the skid out I highly recommend installing both the "center shock cross shaft" and "upper cross shaft saver" from Barn of Parts. In my opinion these are both a "must do" improvement on these sleds. If you do this you will find that the center shock lower bushing will need...
A softer torsion spring that a few of us use are the Cat 1704-354 and 1704-355 springs (left and right). I have both a 129 and 137 LTX with these springs and stock re-valved shocks. This setup works very well.
Having this same issue with my Viper. Just added secondary injection to run 280/300 hp, upgrade from the 240 kit. ISC fuse pops when I get into the throttle, even happens when I rev the engine with the rear end lifted. It will idle all day otherwise. Tried a 30 amp fuse in the ISC spot and blew...
Agreed, Did the same with my secondary after the bushing came out and messed up the jackshaft bearing. 3 small dimples on the backside, won't happen again..
I agree that proper belt deflection is the first step to take. To answer your question, Yes , proper side clearance will make a huge difference toward a smooth engagement. I had been looking for a primary adjuster for quite a while and couldn't find one. I broke down this year and added the 911...
1.63 Triggers work very well on an 1 1/4 lug track. Very durable stud and they will hook up. I run them at 240 hp and have a few friends running them at higher hp and they work great.
Not certain but I think that each time the sled is shut off the reverse actuator gets a pulse in the forward direction as a precaution to make sure its in forward. I can say without question that the plastic gear is on it's way out, thus the grinding on shutdown.
The plastic gear in the actuator is worn out, you can give it new life by pulling that plastic gear off the shaft and rotate it 180 deg and replace it or buy a new actuator. I think the new actuators may use a bronze gear. My has failed twice in this same way, grinding when shut off is a sure...
Running 1630 triggers, no problem on the 1 1/4 track. I know of several others running these studs on sidewinders and 1100 cat turbos without a problem.
I have the 19' LTX LE, Love the sled, the shocks, the look and the track. Haven't done it yet but will be changing to C & A XTPs . No plans on tuning it as I just bought it for trail riding and with the 1.6 cobra it's really perfect on the trails. The shocks have been on the soft setting from...
I think the OP is just asking about a stock Viper with the latest ECU flash to improve starting and idle. Vipers get good mileage and shouldn't go to crap by putting someones clutch kit in it. I get around 14 MPG with my boosted Viper so no complaints here.
That sounds like a lot of twist and you may be able to lower it and drop a few RPM but I doubt you will see a measurable increase in MPG. When you say you have a new clutch kit, what was replaced and why? If you were happy with the previous clutching you could just put that back in. Just keep...
Lowering the secondary spring twist won't get your MPG back. Carrying more RPM in your cruising range is likely responsible for the decreased MPG. Is your WOT RPM high as well ?
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