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I still had to do a little bit of cutting on the dash but it wasn't bad. It was covered by the rubber gasket. It's a nice setup and I highly recommend it.
I ran with the sway bar disconnected on one side for a season and the problem is that it's never fully disconnected. It runs fully disconnected on one side but its only partially disconnected on the other side. It works well for basic testing but doesn't provide the full story. The problem is...
For trail riding, I wouldn't recommend removing the sway bar. It helps throwing the sled around offtrail. Tdog1225 has a 2" challenger so I assume he doesn't do too much trail riding.
Regarding the spinning of the track on take off, have you looked into a different primary spring with 14.5mm rollers? It would drop your engagement so you don't spin so much.
As you have stock fox's, I assume you have an SE without a front sway bar? If you have a non-SE, I would pull the sway bar and drop the pressure of the front shocks. I am currently running 40psi without sway bar and it is a nice setup for back country riding. To help make the front a little...
I tried to remove it the proper way but you have to heat the heck out of the bolts before you remove them. There is one bolt that is acceptable under the skid plate and the second between the sway bar and the motor. Use lots of heat before you try to unthread them. I ended stripping the bolt...
There is a fellow on here that did a magnaflow muffler on their sled. Its a Nytro XTX build below. Not sure if he had any issues with it.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/s1dw1nd3r1480s-2011-nytro-xtx-backcountry-build.121686/
The sled's stock tune (which is speed density unlike your car) is designed for a certain restriction in the intake and exhaust (without a MAS and O2 sensor like your car, it cannot compensate for the increased air flow). If you remove the restriction (within reason), you will gain more power...
You can but nobody has a MAP to support a straight piped Yamaha (it will not run properly without back pressure). MBRP race can would be preferred if you are looking for that sound. By that sound, I mean 'hillbilly in the city' compared to the straight piped 'hillbilly with his cousin'...
Running the same setup (with different clutch), I am running about 135-140km/hr on the lake. This isn't hard pack but I am revving to about 9000rpm so I am almost fully shifted. Stock was about 160km/hr at 8700rpm (roughly). I didn't find an idea, hard packed location to find true top speed...
I drilled and tapped my riser and ran a ram mount ball. I believe it is a 1/4" UNC thread and ran it on the gauge side of the bars. Worked really well and you can easily see it when standup riding. I did run it on my side but the pain of that location matches that of child birth when standup...
I wouldn't worry about the plugs, you wouldn't have noticed much of a difference.
If you do mostly trail riding, you don't have to spend extra money on a XTX with extroverts. Their approach angle isn't that bad so the stock drives will work fine with a tight track.
I have the same...
No fouling issues and I would assume the change intervals are the same. I don't think we have to worry about change intervals, they last longer than everything else on the sled.
You may want to change your gps location. I had mine around there last year until the first big bump where I got the gps mount in the pelvic bone. I had to turn my riser by 180 degrees on the trail. It is a little more difficult to see but it no longer hurts me.
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